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1986 need new engine, whats best?

i'm just going to throw this out there. If your only problem with this motor is valve seals, you are crazy to do anything other than fix those, and leave it alone.

There is no point in messing with a perfectly running motor. You are only inviting headache and cost that you don't need or want.

Just saying. Nothing against anything other people have said, but you start digging into a good running motor, by the time you are done, it won't be running as good. Murphy's law.

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Forgot to mention that I'm leaking coolant somewhere in the rear, assuming its a bad freeze plug. I'm starting to blow black smoke the last couple days. Very hard to start. Seems like I have to burn everything out of the cylinder before it runs. It sounds like its running on 6 until everything blows out. #8 and 6 plugs foul after a couple weeks of driving so I added the metal sleeves to redu e fouling.
My though is if I replace everything it will be like driving a new blazer...
 
Have you talked to a local GM dealership about the price of a new GM crate engine?

Martin
 
Dealer was about the same as Jegs...
I figure if I do it myself (with help) I can replace everything, mounts, belts, rebuilt carb, starter, etc. and save on labor.
I really don’t know what is best.
I heard that if I rebuild the top end, it may cause problems with pistons and compression. I would hate to invest all the time and money and then realize that I need a complete rebuild, or new engine.
I can try the intake gasket and the valve seals, but if I spend a day or two and have the funds available, shouldn’t I just replace everything for a long running reliable engine?
I appreciate all the advice.
 
Forgot to mention that I'm leaking coolant somewhere in the rear, assuming its a bad freeze plug. I'm starting to blow black smoke the last couple days. Very hard to start. Seems like I have to burn everything out of the cylinder before it runs. It sounds like its running on 6 until everything blows out. #8 and 6 plugs foul after a couple weeks of driving so I added the metal sleeves to redu e fouling.
My though is if I replace everything it will be like driving a new blazer...
10 months ago I had the 350 rebuilt in my 14' box van. All the work was done by L&R machine shop in Santa Fe Springs (5 minutes from my house and the engine builder for Chip Foose's overhauling projects).

Derek has handled all my engine and head needs :eek1: for almost a decade, stand up guy and great service.

http://www.lnrengine.com/about_us.html

L&R Engine
13731 Bora Dr.
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Telephone: (562)-802-0443
 
Dealer was about the same as Jegs...
I figure if I do it myself (with help) I can replace everything, mounts, belts, rebuilt carb, starter, etc. and save on labor.
I really don’t know what is best.
I heard that if I rebuild the top end, it may cause problems with pistons and compression. I would hate to invest all the time and money and then realize that I need a complete rebuild, or new engine.
I can try the intake gasket and the valve seals, but if I spend a day or two and have the funds available, shouldn’t I just replace everything for a long running reliable engine?
I appreciate all the advice.
When I built the top end of my ElCo, I regretted not doing the bottom end when it started smoking 3 weeks later......
 
what are the advantages of complete rebuild vs. new engine?
Is there a cost savings for rebuid?
Will it be just as relieable?
 
Typically warranty.

Seconded.

And depending, costs can be less to more.

1. Do you want to spend less money and get a basic rebuild.

2. Spend the same and get a few better parts / better build process. (stronger and more reliable)

3. Spend a few hundred more and get the better parts/process and a bit o' porting work and port matching. (Stronger / more reliable and more power)
 
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Did they pull the motor or did you pull and dropoff?
If that includes labor and drive in one way and drive out with a new motor, my decision is easy...
 
I just went through what you're considering and am 1 city away from you. Our '86 K5 (orig owner) had about 225k miles and leaked oil more than burned it. Definitely consider a rebuild or crate motor. Your k5 should have the one-seal rear main block with passenger side dipstick which was made from 80(?) to 86 and factory rated with 160 hp. In 1987 they switched to TBI and centerbolt valve cover heads which also used a different intake manifold altogether. If you plan on retaining your smog equip (carb EGR Air pump)you wont be able to use a '87-up block since no one makes an intake manifold with both carb and EGR for this style motor so youd have to also get a complete TBI set up to still be smog legal. I've heard of people elongating the holes on an earlier manifold to make it fit but I also heard others not recommending it.

I had scored a rebuilt 4 bolt main (2 seal) pre 1979 motor for our blazer. This has the driver's side dipstick and 95% of the external parts will bolt onto it EXCEPT the flexplate (crank has a different bolt pattern) and exhaust manifolds (passenger side needs a "7" bolt exhaust head and driver's side wont clear the dipstick tube unless it's relocated) - but it can be made to work. I had eventually went to the Edelbrock TES system (headers) for a better fit. My K5 passes smog no problem but I'm still running the factory carb with an edelbrock intake, EGR, air pump and cats.

+1 on L&R - although they didnt do the work on my sbc, theyve done work on my BB mopar years ago
 
Were there shipping charges associated with either the GM engine or the Jegs engine?

Martin
 
You could do a 6.2 diesel conv? A good low mile one is $1200 from Boyce Equipment. And depending on your gears, you might get better fuel economy. Not to mention its fuel injected:)

I have 2 6.2 vehicles. They are great for daily driving.
 
Did they pull the motor or did you pull and dropoff?
If that includes labor and drive in one way and drive out with a new motor, my decision is easy...

Sorry, got tired last night. No, I yanked it and dropped everything off to them. That price included rebuilding the heads and a new oilpan, as mine had the baffle just floating around in it.

You could do a 6.2 diesel conv? A good low mile one is $1200 from Boyce Equipment. And depending on your gears, you might get better fuel economy. Not to mention its fuel injected:)

I have 2 6.2 vehicles. They are great for daily driving.


:waytogo: Shipping from Boyce is $188 to our neck of the woods (business address), I checked with them at the beginning of the month. If you go that route we can figure something out to use my shops address if you don't have a business address. It saves on shipping and my aforementioned box van can drop it off to you if needed.
 
Sorry, got tired last night. No, I yanked it and dropped everything off to them. That price included rebuilding the heads and a new oilpan, as mine had the baffle just floating around in it.




:waytogo: Shipping from Boyce is $188 to our neck of the woods (business address), I checked with them at the beginning of the month. If you go that route we can figure something out to use my shops address if you don't have a business address. It saves on shipping and my aforementioned box van can drop it off to you if needed.

The money you save with the 6.2 option... You could buy this:D

I already called on it and its out of a wrecked Burb. He said all you will need is the exhaust manifold.


http://www.ksl.com/?nid=678&ad=23241139&cat=&lpid=
 
Just to add something to this:
I had my 86 in cali before I moved, and I put TBI on my 86 motor. Best move I ever made. Now with 185k on the ODO I am getting a new TBI crate motor to put in. I would recommend going with the updated tbi engine and picking up a TBI setup from somewhere and installing it all. You already have a distributor that works with the Computer COntrolled Timing, the correct flexplate, and you already have all the holes in the firewalls and the wires run for the check engine light, ect. It was a really easy swap (1 day) to end up with a better running and more responsive engine. Just something to consider while you already have the entire engine out. The CCC quadrajet was allright, but TBI is a night and day difference.
 
Sorry, got tired last night. No, I yanked it and dropped everything off to them. That price included rebuilding the heads and a new oilpan, as mine had the baffle just floating around in it.




:waytogo: Shipping from Boyce is $188 to our neck of the woods (business address), I checked with them at the beginning of the month. If you go that route we can figure something out to use my shops address if you don't have a business address. It saves on shipping and my aforementioned box van can drop it off to you if needed.





thanks Gunnar!
I will let you know.
 
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