1987 chevy k5 bogging at startup with fuel smell

[Supervillainmc]

I have a 87 chevy k5-5.7 L , 700 R4 stage 3 Rebuild. The past 8 months especially when it’s cold in NYC when I start my truck it bogs for the first minute . I can smell fuel out of the exhaust and Tbi then it stop and and idles normal. The past week it got worse where It would stall and I would have to keep my foot on the gas till it finally stops. I changed the Temp Coolant sensor no change. I can’t check codes because the whole bulb bracket came out of speed o when I took dashboard off to fix the loose bulb. Any help will once again be greatly appreciated.. MM

 

[kennyw]

First, fix your dash light. Also, look at the spray pattern on your injectors when it first starts up. It should be a fine mist with no drips.

 

[Supervillainmc]

My bulb casing fell out so I’m sure if it was working I would be getting codes. The injectors are spraying fine

 

[Wes Harden]

You can still see codes with a reader. Only need the bulb if you are going use the blink method. Also that bulb doesn't need to be in the dash you can wire it in anywhere. Short terminal A to B, put a test lamp in E to ground, it should blink like the dash lamp.

I am guessing it got really F'ing cold where you are, and the computer is tiring to compensate. Two things come to mind 1 poor grounds can add resistance and provide the computer with false data, ie thinks it's much colder than it is. Cold temperatures can cause wiring connections to be looser, then normal.
Second is your mention of adding throttle to keep the engine running, the IAC may be impacted by the cold, the ground, and maybe partially blocked pasage in the throttle body.
You should never start an engine and drive off in freezing temps, the oil isn't going to provide enough lubrication. Best practice is to allow it warm up for few minutes at least. How long does the hesitation/bog last ?
Also second injector spray pattern inspection, TBI injectors are not the most robust.

 

[Blue85]

Maybe it's running fine in closed loop, but not open. If it's been 8 months you can't just blame the weather. It's possible you have a bad MAT or ECT sensor that's confusing it to run rich, then when the O2 sensor comes up it corrects the mixture. Those sensors are pretty easy to check with a DMM. I suppose it could also be a bad IAC so it's getting the correct fuel but not the correct air and as the engine warms you don't need as much IAC so it's OK (as @Wes Harden mentioned). You should be able to pull the IAC out and see if it moves and then check the passages.

EDIT: Sorry for not providing the correct solution as LS swap or Big Block.

 

[Wes Harden]

Big block is always a good go to, not sure about the LS. You have been spending to much time on Farce book. Time to post a rude politically incorrect meme, so you get a 30 day ban

 

[Blue85]

Big block is always a good go to, not sure about the LS. You have been spending to much time on Farce book. Time to post a rude politically incorrect meme, so you get a 30 day ban

Me? I'm sometimes helpful here and otherwise funny, which is also helpful (for my own amusement). My time on Facebook is mostly Marketplace stuff. We all know there's more bro-tech there than actual information.

 

[Wes Harden]

either AVS or LS only 2 answers on the ole Farce Book