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1988 gmc 2500 overland build

This also happened as i pulled in my driveway. Never seen this happen before
Sorry, didn't go back and read the whole thread. If the shock isn't otherwise worn out, this could probably be welded back together quickly. If the shock is fully extended, heat probably isn't a big issue. If not, maybe wrap the the rod with a wet rag near the shock seals?
 
Sorry, didn't go back and read the whole thread. If the shock isn't otherwise worn out, this could probably be welded back together quickly. If the shock is fully extended, heat probably isn't a big issue. If not, maybe wrap the the rod with a wet rag near the shock seals?
It didnt break. It actually unthreaded. I put some red loctite on it and threaded it back together. The shocks have about 5k miles on them and i know they are short but i have custom kings in the garage waiting till i have time to fab up mounts or pay a shop
 
Whose springs are in the front? I know it is in this thread I read it once, so many references to springs I can't keep'm straight. Those look really stout, how is the ride on those.
 
Whose springs are in the front? I know it is in this thread I read it once, so many references to springs I can't keep'm straight. Those look really stout, how is the ride on those.
They are ORD customs front and back. They ride so much better than the 2" ez rides i had on there before. The ez rides were a big upgrade from stock but these blow both of them away on or off road. The rear does sit too high though so i have to figure that out
 
I have this in a 91 K5.
Runs ok but I need to find someone that can tune it [K5 came with laptop and program]
as it seems to run pretty rich.

I had the EBL in past rigs and LOVED it, make sure if you go this route to get a wideband (pretty sure you can get one that integrates and plays nicely). There is TONS of support for it over on thirdgen.org and rbob has been pretty responsive if you run into issues or have questions that you can't find answers for on the forum. TBIs can be built to handle up to around ~450hp until you run out of fuel (I don't know of any injectors that support more than that) and being in Cali, you're gonna have to run the GM TBI to Vortec intake (if you swap to vortec heads) which doesn't have the greatest flow rate.

Rig is looking pretty good, love the build.
 
Its been awhile since ive updated this. I have just been using the truck and enjoying it with the family but i finally have an update.

Last night i picked up a dodge d60f with internal hubs. This is the 1st 60 reasonably priced within driving distance in 2 years. I know i need the ord offset bushings and chevy calipers but what do i do about the width difference? 1" spacers and longer studs? Leave it alone? Will my ord tie rod and xover steering fit the d60?
 
I installed a 1991 Dodge 60 in my Crawlabago.
The rotors and calipers were identical to all of my Chevy 60s but I have heard some are thinner.
ORD bushings is money well spent as far I am concerned.
Brake lines were modified similar to what Chevy uses.
The bigger 9/16 wheel studs are NAPA part #641-2794. Very easy to install.
The single sheer shock mounts do not want to play well with Chevy uppers so I picked those up from ORD as well and burned them in.
View attachment 428145
View attachment 428146
Some info here.
 
Some info here.
Did your chevy brakelines bolt up? I have the ord extended ones on my 10b. Wheels studs drop in or do they have to be drilled? Are my 8 lug 10b studs 9/16"?
 
Did your chevy brakelines bolt up? I have the ord extended ones on my 10b. Wheels studs drop in or do they have to be drilled? Are my 8 lug 10b studs 9/16"?
I used ORD lines for a Chevy if I remember correctly. Wheel studs hammered in with a big brass punch and don't know for sure on your 10 bolt stuff but I think so.
 
I would measure the tie rod. I know that I have a D44 version that was too long for my Chevy 60.
 
Tie rod will be to long, I had to shorten my drag link for the cross over. Brake lines swap over. Check the u joint size, I swapped mine but can't remember why.
What rear axle do you run? If it's old gm the front will be close to rear track width. I run 3.5 inch backspacing, with 37s I was really close to the springs.
 
Tie rod will be to long, I had to shorten my drag link for the cross over. Brake lines swap over. Check the u joint size, I swapped mine but can't remember why.
What rear axle do you run? If it's old gm the front will be close to rear track width. I run 3.5 inch backspacing, with 37s I was really close to the springs.
It has the original 14b semi float with a lunch box locker. My 16s have 3.5 backspacing but planning 37s and 17s
 
Dodge D60 is 1.7-ish" narrower than the GM D60 and the D60 knuckle system is a lot bulkier than the D44/10b setup so the tierod and draglink will be quite a bit different. Someone skilled in the cut and splice could make them work nicely, or maybe they make someone with a lighter axle happy.
GM and dodge D60 wheel hubs are the same so the max you'll have to watch out when you install GM D60 studs is the hole size in the rotor. And I'd just leave the brakes alone, nothing wrong with the dodge stuff for what you're doing. It'll be a decent upgrade over the 3/4T stuff already.
 
Dodge 60 brake line banjo bolts are 10mm, if your 10b was an early one with 7/16 bolts just order calipers for a Chevy 60 from 78, as they fit the dodge axle and have the correct 7/16 thread, otherwise you’d need to get the later Chevy lines that are 10 mm
 
Finally some updates. I picked my suburban up from the fabricator today. King shocks are in, sliders are on and the d60 is installed with all new brakes. The front lower shock mounts are lower than i wanted but thats where they had to be and keep the factory rear ac lines and air injection lines for smog. This is an overlanding truck and not strictly a rock crawler so i should be fine. Overall im very pleased with this guys work. Now its time to save up for bigger tires20230607_140801.jpg20230607_132950.jpg20230607_131850.jpg20230607_131841.jpg20230607_132001.jpg20230602_131931.jpg20230531_130739.jpg
 
Been awhile since i have actually done anything on the suburban other than just using it but i finally have an update.

Finally had time to get the rear bumper on. It was a lot more work than i thought it would be but it looks great. I still have stuff to finalize like a patch for the spare tire well that took a half a day to get out. And figure out where im going to put the rear plate and light.20240310_123845.jpg20240310_123853.jpg20240310_123904.jpg

Found some bondo in the 1/4 that has obviously been repainted. It was only an 1/8" thick so im happy about that.

Last but not least i got some 37s and im waiting on some vision beadlocks. Hopefully they will fill the wheel wells a little better
 
Finally have an update on this thing. I have been working on mu nova.

I changed the 4.10s to 4.56s, had the Eaton e locker installed in the front, yukon axles with 35 spline outers and yukon locking hubs in the front. Also got yukon axles for the 9.5" 14 bolt because they were only 77 bucks each on Amazon and yukon said they were 25% stronger than stock. Also got motobuilt fabricated diff covers.

all this got done just in time for a trip starting next Thursday. A little offroading/camping trip to the tamarack. Lakes in trinity national forest
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