14092360
CK5
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1988 K20 Suburban Build Thread
- Thread starter 88Burb17
- Start date
Peanut ports.
You can still make good low end power with those
Martin
You can still make good low end power with those
Martin
If ya’ ever go deep enough into this motor and need pistons it’s a good idea to get a set with a little more compression offering as these heads are 119 cc chambers and that motor comes with a very low 7.9:1 ratio.
Don’t worry, it will still make gobs of torque as is - just say’n if ya’ ever need to go that far into the motor there is more easy power to be found in correctly applied replacement parts.
With the correct cam grind and a little more compression a 454, even with peanut-ports, will pull real damn strong under four grand.
Ya’ just can’t go wrong with a decent big block !
Small blocks are nice and have their place but once you put one of those big ole motors in there you’ll never regret it.
Don’t worry, it will still make gobs of torque as is - just say’n if ya’ ever need to go that far into the motor there is more easy power to be found in correctly applied replacement parts.
With the correct cam grind and a little more compression a 454, even with peanut-ports, will pull real damn strong under four grand.
Ya’ just can’t go wrong with a decent big block !
Small blocks are nice and have their place but once you put one of those big ole motors in there you’ll never regret it.
Might be a long write up but it’s been a while. I pulled that 454 apart and replaced all the gaskets, new water pump, timing chain, alternator, etc. I installed it and drove it for a little while before the flex plate started making noise. Turns out I’m a dummy and didn’t properly space my flex plate to my torque converter. It’s definitely cracked and I needed to replace it but I didn’t find the time. I ended up having to go on a 9 month deployment to the Middle East so this thing has been sitting since February of 2025 and hasn’t moved. In order to fix the flex plate, is my best course of action to unbolt my transmission and transfer case and slide it to the back. Or should I just drop them both and get them out of the way? It’s lifted 4” on 35’s so I’ll have to work some magic with the regular trans jack my buddy has if I need to completely remove it. I’m just trying to get this thing back up and running again
Yeap slide it back. I have done it many times.
Undo the t case shifter, pull the dip stick tube, you will get atf running out when tube is removed. If solid cooler lines you might want to undo one end. Get some 3/8 16 4 or 4.5" bolts put them in the bottom 2 holes remove all others. Jack under t case remove cross member. Torque Converter bolts. Then slide it back.
Might also want to loosen fan shroud and distributor cap, so you can tilt for clearance.
Undo the t case shifter, pull the dip stick tube, you will get atf running out when tube is removed. If solid cooler lines you might want to undo one end. Get some 3/8 16 4 or 4.5" bolts put them in the bottom 2 holes remove all others. Jack under t case remove cross member. Torque Converter bolts. Then slide it back.
Might also want to loosen fan shroud and distributor cap, so you can tilt for clearance.
