1988 R10

[joshuak]

Thanks for the positive comments guys. That means one of the goals of this thread has been met: entertain fellow members, like they've entertained me.

I feel I should get a move on this build, there is a Sweet Gum sapling growing on it already.



Supervisor's not terribly impressed.



This weekend's progress.

This put a smile on my face, (idling after 1st start since project started).

This put a big ol' shit eating grin on my face, (drove the length of my driveway, forward and back about 50' !) .

Next is alignment, one more nut and bolt check and then a preliminary road test!

 

[joshuak]

At first she didn’t want to start, so I downloaded a manual maybe some one could use it too. Turned out to be operator error (spark plug wires incorrectly placed on distributor ). Still have to troubleshoot the no Service Engine Light, but it runs.

 

[joshuak]

...

Current thought is flex pipe from Y to cat, then solid pipe to muffler and dump out the DS in front of the rear tire.

...

I didn't really like dumping in front of the rear tire, so added some pipe and took it behind the tire.








Added band clamps where needed, replaced tie wire with real exhaust hangers and went for gas!





Couple of questions:

Does someone have a pro tip for keeping fender emblems on without using fasteners?
Call me lazy, but I don't want to pull the fenders just to gain access for that and 3M double sided adhesive tape didn't work for me.

Is there a way to tell if the clutch is properly adjusted?
Specifically the slave cylinder rod that actuates the clutch fork. I "think" mine is fine, but have nothing to compare it to and this is my first rodeo, just trying to keep tuition expenses to a minimum.

 

[joshuak]

Drove it work, had to turn my headlights on and was pleasantly surprised with how the dash looked. A nice shade of white from the leds IMO.



Gave a her a bath with the pressure washer.



And welded tabs to rear axle so I could add the rear shocks, the ride home was that much nicer.



I noticed there's only a couple of inches between front DS and PS exhaust down pipe. Opinions? Don't worry, it will self clearance lol?



Added a breather tube to the diff after that pic.

 

[swettysblazer]

Drove it work, had to turn my headlights on and was pleasantly surprised with how the dash looked. A nice shade of white from the leds IMO.

View attachment 385298

Gave a her a bath with the pressure washer.

View attachment 385299

And welded tabs to rear axle so I could add the rear shocks, the ride home was that much nicer.

View attachment 385305

I noticed there's only a couple of inches between front DS and PS exhaust down pipe. Opinions? Don't worry, it will self clearance lol?

View attachment 385310

Added a breather tube to the diff after that pic.

Depends on how hard you're planning on wheeling it. By the time the one on my 91 K5/Trazer was done, it was flat and looked like it got drug through a meat grinder (which basically it had). I ran a true dual setup after that, no cats or anything, and so far so good.

 

[joshuak]

Depends on how hard you're planning on wheeling it. By the time the one on my 91 K5/Trazer was done, it was flat and looked like it got drug through a meat grinder (which basically it had). I ran a true dual setup after that, no cats or anything, and so far so good.

Well, I'm not planing on running Uwharrie in it (great pics by the way). But certainly don't want the exhaust pipe to be a bump stop. Just south of you, I need cats and mufflers to pass emissions.

 

[swettysblazer]

Well, I'm not planing on running Uwharrie in it (great pics by the way). But certainly don't want the exhaust pipe to be a bump stop. Just south of you, I need cats and mufflers to pass emissions.

Mine definitely got drug over rocks. Some guys on here have reworked the Y-pipe so that it tucks up closer to the t-case and the floor. I bought a Flowmaster builders kit and kind of rigged up my own setup on both my Trazer and the K5 and have been really happy with it. I would consider either taking it to an exhaust shop or doing something like that.

 

[muddybuddy]

Maybe cut x-over pipe and move it behind trans/tcase if possible. Should solve your problem. Thats pretty close for up travel on passenger front tire. Would hate to have the driveshaft stress the manifold flange bolts and break those off. Could be nightmare.

i know, a pain since you just got tail pipe on.

 

[centexk5]

The previous owner of my truck put a giant notch about 3/4 of the way in to the crossover pipe and welded it up just to clear it. I bought a dynomax true dual kit and ran it out the back. No more worries.

 

[joshuak]

Maybe cut x-over pipe and move it behind trans/tcase if possible. Should solve your problem. Thats pretty close for up travel on passenger front tire. Would hate to have the driveshaft stress the manifold flange bolts and break those off. Could be nightmare.

i know, a pain since you just got tail pipe on.

Switching it up would be a small inconvenience compared to manifold bolts breaking off, good call.

The previous owner of my truck put a giant notch about 3/4 of the way in to the crossover pipe and welded it up just to clear it. I bought a dynomax true dual kit and ran it out the back. No more worries.

I like the getter' done attitude but not sure I could live with a notched exhaust pipe. I'm more in the no worries camp, I think I'll follow your lead.

Order a dual exhaust kit from summit, link and pic. bellow.

 

[centexk5]

That's the exact one I ordered. Fit just fine. You'll need to cut pipe depending on the length (it works on either a pick up or blazer) but it's an easy install.

To the PO's credit, it didn't leak.

 

[skunked]

I used a couple 45's and pulled the exhaust closer to the engine for more clearance. Limiting travel with bump stops is important too.

FYI- I had to modify the passenger down pipe because I smashed the $hit out of it with the driveshaft at full bump.

Before & After

View attachment 313111

View attachment 313112

 

[joshuak]

I used a couple 45's and pulled the exhaust closer to the engine for more clearance. Limiting travel with bump stops is important too.

That came out really nice, I like the heat wrap too. I hear you on the bump stops, added that to the list.

 

[muddybuddy]

That's the exact one I ordered. Fit just fine. You'll need to cut pipe depending on the length (it works on either a pick up or blazer) but it's an easy install.

To the PO's credit, it didn't leak.

View attachment 385430

That would certainly kill power. Glad you went to duals and its no longer an issue

 

[K85 Octane]

It’s easier for the manual guys to tuck that Y-pipe up closer to the bell housing. With the auto crowd, it’s normally been dual exhaust or tucked as best you can. Since I clocked my T-case there is no room for dual exhaust plus my emissions wouldn’t pass. I ran my Y-pipe in front of the oil pan, real close to the high clearance cross member, and down the driver side to meet the merger. No problems for maybe 9 years now and I don’t have an inch of exhaust below the frame rails.

Also, you might benefit by switching to a straight draglink. Those bent ones work better on higher lift trucks. I’m at about 4-5” and the bent one wouldn’t work for me.

 

[joshuak]

It’s easier for the manual guys to tuck that Y-pipe up closer to the bell housing. With the auto crowd, it’s normally been dual exhaust or tucked as best you can. Since I clocked my T-case there is no room for dual exhaust plus my emissions wouldn’t pass. I ran my Y-pipe in front of the oil pan, real close to the high clearance cross member, and down the driver side to meet the merger. No problems for maybe 9 years now and I don’t have an inch of exhaust below the frame rails.

Yep, crawled underneath yesterday and verified plenty of real estate for relocating that 90 degree bend. Skunked example would be what I’d aim for if I were going that route, both the bends and the wrap. Heat is one of the reasons I’m jumping on the duals so quickly.

Also, you might benefit by switching to a straight draglink. Those bent ones work better on higher lift trucks. I’m at about 4-5” and the bent one wouldn’t work for me.

I read you loud and clear, but I’m under the impression that one of the benefits of the bent drag link is extra clearance. I interpret that as trucks with low lift.

I may be wrong and it wouldn’t be the first time, probably wouldn’t be the first time in this thread, lol. Definitely here to learn.

Screen shot from ORD’s page explaining mods for crossover on trucks with 2-3” lift. No reference to bent drag link but pictured.

 

[Big Ray]

love the wheels.

 

[K85 Octane]

I mentioned the draglink because in one picture it looked like the end of it was going back upwards towards the knuckle. My biggest issue with the bent arm was contacting my leaf springs. With the zero rates and pushed forward, they would rub with the wheel turned and IIRC worse during passenger droop. Ended up selling it to someone.

 

[joshuak]

I mentioned the draglink because in one picture it looked like the end of it was going back upwards towards the knuckle. My biggest issue with the bent arm was contacting my leaf springs. With the zero rates and pushed forward, they would rub with the wheel turned and IIRC worse during passenger droop. Ended up selling it to someone.

It does go upwards, thanks for pointing that out I'll keep an eye on it and deep six it if causes issues. Keep intel coming, much appreciated.

love the wheels.

Quoting Martin for truth.

Like the good lord intended!

Martin

Received exhaust on Sat. but got rained out, had a few hrs Sunday to play with it. So far so good.



Don't remember leaving that serpent belt there...

 

[joshuak]

Finally wrapped up the dual exhaust, I can see why people would pay to have this done as opposed to diy. Used the OEM pipe to manifold flange and ran new pipe to the cats and muffler after which the pieces from the kit took it over the axle and dumped it out the sides. When removing the Y collector I used force instead of heat on one side, ended up paying for it, then broke the bit while drilling for an easy out lol.



For the DS a different inlet configuration on the muffler would have given me a straight pipe run, but it works.



PS required some bends to clear the transfer case on one side and fuel/brake lines on the other. I wrapped it for peace of mind.



Made a bracket to support power steering, brake and vacuum hoses and the hood release cable (need new one).





Replaced heater core due to old one leaking, should have done this when I had the front end apart the first time.



Got the parking brake cables hooked up. Pretty happy about that one, stock sub cable in front and rear cables for rear 14b later model not bolt on. Only extra tuition was rockauto listing different lengths for the front, had to reorder that.



Starting to put some miles on it.