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1988 R10

Finally wrapped up the dual exhaust, I can see why people would pay to have this done as opposed to diy. Used the OEM pipe to manifold flange and ran new pipe to the cats and muffler after which the pieces from the kit took it over the axle and dumped it out the sides. When removing the Y collector I used force instead of heat on one side, ended up paying for it, then broke the bit while drilling for an easy out lol.

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For the DS a different inlet configuration on the muffler would have given me a straight pipe run, but it works.

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PS required some bends to clear the transfer case on one side and fuel/brake lines on the other. I wrapped it for peace of mind.

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Made a bracket to support power steering, brake and vacuum hoses and the hood release cable (need new one).

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Replaced heater core due to old one leaking, should have done this when I had the front end apart the first time. :doah:

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Got the parking brake cables hooked up. Pretty happy about that one, stock sub cable in front and rear cables for rear 14b later model not bolt on. Only extra tuition was rockauto listing different lengths for the front, had to reorder that.

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Starting to put some miles on it.

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Any chance you have experience with Magnaflow??? I saw you have Dynomax I'd like something quieter than the Magnaflow
 
Any chance you have experience with Magnaflow??? I saw you have Dynomax I'd like something quieter than the Magnaflow

Unfortunately no and only limited experience with Dynomax, these two 2.25” and the 3” I had put on first. I’m wondering if the model doesn’t matter just as much as the brand, these duals are louder IMO. I think they both came from summit, so the 2.25” are ultra flo and the 3” is super turbo.

Edit: product description says super turbo is quieter.
 
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Was under the rig looking around and found this pin hole on the supply fuel line.

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Planning on replacing the line but would like to band aid it until then.

Has someone had luck cutting at the pin hole, sliding fuel hose over both ends and hose clamping? Maybe JB weld?
 
Was under the rig looking around and found this pin hole on the supply fuel line.

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Planning on replacing the line but would like to band aid it until then.

Has someone had luck cutting at the pin hole, sliding fuel hose over both ends and hose clamping? Maybe JB weld?


Yes. It's only about 15 psi, at the high end. Honestly I would cut the bad section out, run a length of rubber fuel rated hose, and double clamp it on both ends just to be sure. I did this on the wheeling rig to get me out of a bind and it's still there after 2-3 years :whistle2::whistle2::whistle2:
 
Unfortunately no and only limited experience with Dynomax, these two 2.25” and the 3” I had put on first. I’m wondering if the model doesn’t matter just as much as the brand, these duals are louder IMO. I think they both came from summit, so the 2.25” are ultra flo and the 3” is super turbo.

Edit: product description says super turbo is quieter.
Thank you
 
Fuel line repaired.

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Sanded to clean metal, primed then painted the line as well as I could. Then a simple flare on either end.

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Other side was easy, I was able to remove the line and work on it comfortably.

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Just need to go back and reattach the clamps, waiting for them to dry.

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No bumpstop mounts on the 2wd frame, so money whipped some up. Used timbren pn a520-75, similar to the Zimmer’s Maiden, limited uptravel to 4” based on this thread.

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If it would have had factory mounts, I would have kissed it (Kept It Simple Stupid).

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Enjoyed reading this tonight, looks like a great project! The pics in the first few posts were like a how -to manual.
What have you done with it lately, any more work or just enjoying it?
 
Cool man, glad you enjoyed.

Far from a how to manual, definitely my first rodeo. Easy to do though with the know how here on CK5 and the aftermarket products available, in my case ord and diy4x. An Engineered vintage behind bumper winch is on my wish list. But after drilling a few holes it was a bolt on deal for the most part. Done by myself in the gravel, no fancy tools required. Definitely a fun project.

Haven't done anything to her after the bumpstops, maybe run half tank of gas? Don't really use it much because work provides a vehicle and if I'm not home I'm at work. Only drive my junk for personal errands but even those are infrequent.

The ratio of working vs non working trucks in my yard started to bother me, so I've been working on that.
 
I love this build and I am jealous of the NV4500 swap.... my TH400 is cool and all but 3 gears is still 3 gears... What is your wheel and tire set up? I'm currently rocking 35x12.5's but I would prefer to rock a smaller and skinnier tire on the factory rims with hubcaps.
 
I love this build and I am jealous of the NV4500 swap.... my TH400 is cool and all but 3 gears is still 3 gears... What is your wheel and tire set up? I'm currently rocking 35x12.5's but I would prefer to rock a smaller and skinnier tire on the factory rims with hubcaps.

Thanks for the kind words, yeah dropping a third pedal and OD was fun have to admit. You've got the start to a fine project yourself, look forward to following along!

About wheels and tires, close to what you're running but metric 315/75r16 toyo ATs. on factory 16x8(?) I believe.

You have a picture in you're thread with 37s on stock rims with hubcaps, I think that's where its at.
 
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Well, I was sure that the drivetrain was buggered here and had procrastinated looking into it.

Conditions were finally proper to work on her and with the help of the kind folks here the culprit was located, thanks guys. Zoomad actually nailed on the first response, took me a minute to locate though. Turned out to be a loose heat shield on PS exhaust manifold, lesson learned: beat on chit lol.

Link to troubleshooting thread:

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/what’s-wrong-with-my-nv4500s.348171/page-3#post-4324955

Anyway first thought was to throw some plug wire covers on and call it good, but both the Capt. and Wes were suggesting reusing the OEM shield in another thread. So this is what I came up with.

Drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold to 10-32, because it’s the tap I found. Welded a couple washers to the outer heat shield and a couple coats of hi temp paint.

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Used stainless screws and washer to hold the outer shield in place and a couple stainless zip ties to hold the inner shield on. The ties go through the existing holes, hope it works.

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