I was driving the truck and while driving the truck shut off. All electrical was still on like the radio and headlights. The motor just stopped. I checked all fuses, the battery has correct voltage. The motor cranks fine and I do see fuel coming out of injectors. I don't have spark coming from sparks plugs, but I do have 12volts going o the coil. I swapped out coil and still no start? Also my oil pressure gauge peaked over 60 and does not move any more when I turn ignition switch on.
CK5
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1989 gmc jimmy not getting spark
- Thread starter BAYBLAZER
- Start date
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I bet it's your Ignition Control Module (ICM).
It's the 'brains' of the ignition operation.
It's also under yer dizzy Cap.
I just went through the same exact thing.
Unscrew the cap, move it out of the way, unscrew the ICM, Unplug the connectors,
and take it to an auto parts store, and have it tested.
They have a machine that tests the ICM's funcionality.
You pretty well traced it back to the ICM, at this point.
Make sure the guy knows what he's doing.
Have him test it 3 times, if it fails any of those, it's done.
Also, have them test the new unit, the same way as the old one.
That'll let you knw they tested it right, and that the new unit works.
They're about $45, for a new one.
Get a Delco.... I hear the rest are crap.
Hope that helps.
It's the 'brains' of the ignition operation.
It's also under yer dizzy Cap.
I just went through the same exact thing.
Unscrew the cap, move it out of the way, unscrew the ICM, Unplug the connectors,
and take it to an auto parts store, and have it tested.
They have a machine that tests the ICM's funcionality.
You pretty well traced it back to the ICM, at this point.
Make sure the guy knows what he's doing.
Have him test it 3 times, if it fails any of those, it's done.
Also, have them test the new unit, the same way as the old one.
That'll let you knw they tested it right, and that the new unit works.
They're about $45, for a new one.
Get a Delco.... I hear the rest are crap.
Hope that helps.
Broken timing chain?
With the dist. cap off the dist, have you seen the rotor turning and in time still with the engine rotating?
With the dist. cap off the dist, have you seen the rotor turning and in time still with the engine rotating?
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
yes theres power to coil and the rotor is turning to when being cranked over
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Why are you replace all this stuff, and not just testing it?
Did you check for codes?
Did you check for codes?
no codes came up and i was being helped by a parts guy at local shop thought it my help used some parts from my buddys gmc jimmy so i didnt by all the parts
Ok, I chased a non firing problem once only to find after MANY hours that the power connection to the coil was bad.
Run a hot wire directly from the battery to the coil to remove any factory wiring as the culprit.
As you have changed the different parts, what common parts have you been swapping into the new distributor for example? Cap? rotor? coil wire? problem may be any one of them. Do not go out to buy new ones but lets consider the chances of them being the problem.
Run a hot wire directly from the battery to the coil to remove any factory wiring as the culprit.
As you have changed the different parts, what common parts have you been swapping into the new distributor for example? Cap? rotor? coil wire? problem may be any one of them. Do not go out to buy new ones but lets consider the chances of them being the problem.
the new didtributor came with new cap rotor and icm so didnt swap those
and i was getting 12 v to the coil plug where do i plug in the wire from battery to coil to jump it direct
I believe he said he has power to the coil, I am assuming he checked.
Now the only thing I can think of now is some sensor that cancels spark, like temp or oil pressure, or maybe even the ECM is defective?
Now the only thing I can think of now is some sensor that cancels spark, like temp or oil pressure, or maybe even the ECM is defective?
ok well the oil pressure gauge has since gone buried pass the 60 and stays buried there
Change the sender or see if the wire is grounded somewhere.
The oil sensor is a single wire connection. Whether the wire is plugged in or not the gauge still fluctuates when cranking. Also i forgot to mention, The heater just happen to be turned on for 5 mins then truck stopped, would that be a factor?
I read that he had voltage to the coil.... I also thought I did when I had my problem.
Turns out in my case that there was a spliced wire that wasn't connected well after the butt connector. In my case it was a 4.3 swap from a 2.8 back in the late 80's.
I was also thinking change the oil pressure sender or at least unplug it.
Turns out in my case that there was a spliced wire that wasn't connected well after the butt connector. In my case it was a 4.3 swap from a 2.8 back in the late 80's.
I was also thinking change the oil pressure sender or at least unplug it.
I unplugged the oil sensor single wire and still no spark whether connected or not.
And the gauge is still pegged with the oil pressure wire unplugged?
Do you have a tachometer on this truck? if yes then unplug it from the dist as well.
If the gauge is still pegged/unplugged then there is a shorted wire somewhere.
Check the wiring coming up from the starter.
Do you have a tachometer on this truck? if yes then unplug it from the dist as well.
If the gauge is still pegged/unplugged then there is a shorted wire somewhere.
Check the wiring coming up from the starter.
Did you check coolant level?
I think there is a low coolant sensor, if your heater core was leaking and your coolant got low
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