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1989 K5 - Gradual Learning

First 4x4 - learning basic maintenance / upkeep and maybe some small mods.
...

I test drove it and it went great. I am trying not to get my hopes up, but I am optimistic about how it is driving right now. I'm gonna give it a little more time before I cross off the clunk noise and the shake as "fixed", but again I'm happy.
Since doing that whole procedure (disconnect IAC --> set minimum air --> adjust TPS), the Blazer has been driving really well. The only thing that was bugging me was that I felt like the idle was pretty high. I decided that I was going to repeat the whole thing because I wanted to do a couple of things differently:
  • I wanted to let the engine warm up to operating temp. The last time I did it, the engine was cold.
  • I wanted to be really crisp about checking/verifying my engine's RPM as I went. The last time I did it, I just went off of my ear.
When Googling about how to best measure my engine RPM, I found this photo tachometer from HF. I decided to go for it after watching a review video on YouTube. It comes with some reflective tape, but in the video they mention that you can just use aluminum foil tape so I bought a roll of that also.

I slapped a strip of tape on the inside of my crank pulley and gave it a shot. It seems to work fairly well. Here is a video of me using it. It takes about 25 seconds before I get the camera to show everything (sorry about that).

View attachment IMG_0147.MOV

In the video you see that the crank is spinning at 570 RPM, but when I first got under there it was at 740 or something like that. Definitely way too high. After shooting the video I got it down to about 535 RPM before proceeding onward.

I think that I may have mentioned this in my prior post... but when checking the TPS, the old Eagle Mark threads say that you should shoot for 0.54V-0.6V to start. When checking this time it was at 0.54V on the dot. I was so happy to see that... rocking the TPS back-and-forth is kind of a pain. I left it exactly where it was at.

The only thing still bothering me is that those same Eagle Mark threads say that when at WOT, your TPS should be showing something like 4.5V-4.8V. Mine was showing something like 4.2V at WOT. I don't know how that will translate into the driving experience. When flooring the gas pedal I want it to GO lol.

I have yet to test drive it, but I'm optimistic. I'll report back as soon as I get the chance to shake it down.

EDIT: I should mention that doing all of this really made some mental lightbulbs go off about how the TBI system works end-to-end. I am really starting to finally feel comfortable with TBI. I think that I could buy a non-running TBI truck and get it going again with what I have learned. It makes me feel really happy and I just couldn't help but share.
 
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Someone tried to break into the Blazer (or just really does not like me) a couple of weeks ago:

View attachment IMG_0201.MOV

What is upsetting is that Emily and I heard it happen in the middle of the night. We both were woken up by the noise. I thought to myself, "that sounds like where the Blazer is parked..."

When we would hear stuff in the past, I would run outside in my boxers looking for someone to catch. Emily has convinced me to stop doing that (lol).

Anybody know if it is possible to replace these windows, or if I'd have to replace the whole cap? I might just not do anything about it, but I'm a little concerned of the same person coming back and trying again. I won't be keeping anything valuable in the Blazer for a while.
 
Someone tried to break into the Blazer (or just really does not like me) a couple of weeks ago:

View attachment 525776

What is upsetting is that Emily and I heard it happen in the middle of the night. We both were woken up by the noise. I thought to myself, "that sounds like where the Blazer is parked..."

When we would hear stuff in the past, I would run outside in my boxers looking for someone to catch. Emily has convinced me to stop doing that (lol).

Anybody know if it is possible to replace these windows, or if I'd have to replace the whole cap? I might just not do anything about it, but I'm a little concerned of the same person coming back and trying again. I won't be keeping anything valuable in the Blazer for a while.
I've got one you can have . Installing them is fairly easy.
 
That sucks, you think it was someone trying to break in or maybe kids screwing around? I would think they would go for the door window so they could unlock it quick.
 
That sucks man. You need to move

Yeah, I am saving as much as I can right now. Outside of some gripes (e.g. incidents like this), I like this little house and the garage is pretty great as far as inner-city locations go. One day I want to have more space but I also have to find somewhere that won't tank Emily's business. She works out of a shared kitchen near the Bronco's stadium. There is a neighborhood in Denver called "Rural Acres", and I would love to have a house in there... but they are all too expensive for me.

I've got one you can have . Installing them is fairly easy.

You're the man Ron!!!

That sucks, you think it was someone trying to break in or maybe kids screwing around? I would think they would go for the door window so they could unlock it quick.

I am not sure. Emily thinks it was kids/random. My gas tank was drilled into a number of years ago, and we couldn't figure out if that was someone stealing gas or if it was someone just vandalizing. Same thing here. The tinfoil hat on my head thinks it is a neighbor who doesn't like the Blazer but who knows. My Mitsubishi has also been broken into.

I hate people. Sorry dude.

Thanks man. Just a senseless waste of a good window. lol
 
Might be the proximity to the highway for dumb shit like that. If you need to put it somewhere outside I got room to park by my garage if you need to. I’ve yet to have anything messed with here. (Knocking on wood..)
 
It has been a while guys!! I am happy to be checking in again...

I still gotta deal with this (thanks to @Capt Ron for letting me buy his spare):

IMG_0487.jpeg

I gotta deal with this now:

IMG_0486.jpeg

I also have a pretty scary issue with my brakes. Woke up one morning and it was cold out (a few months ago now?) and the brake pedal went all the way to the floor. Luckily I was able to try again and it worked fine. Since then, my pedal is feeling softer. When I sit at stop lights it slowly sinks deeper toward the floor. When I come to a stop, my brakes shudder (as if they're having trouble grabbing fully).

I recently replaced my brake lines and the vacuum booster. The fluid in the master is a little low. I took a look at my wheel cylinders in the back and it is looking like I might have a leak driver's side.

Driver's side:

IMG_0493.jpeg

Passenger side for comparison:

IMG_0494.jpeg

So yeah lots of work to do. The rear window thing is a pain... I think it fully came off the tracks. Is the tailgate one solid piece, or is it two separate panels?

Here are some photos I've taken.

IMG_0489.jpeg

IMG_0490.jpeg

IMG_0491.jpeg

IMG_0492.jpeg

Lots and lots of work to do...

Oh I almost forgot to mention... on the FUN side of things, I bought a set of Bilsteins from @cheavyk10 that I still need to install (thanks again man!!). That is the one bright light in all of this. I can't wait to feel how they ride. The shocks on the front currently are unknown-mileage hand-me-downs from an old member Justin V (miss that guy!).
 
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While I won't say you don't have acwheel cylinder leak that looks more like a gear oil leak.
As always check the beather vent for blockage, as pressure build up will blow past a seal.

You describe classic master cylinder internal bypassingm with the pedal symptoms. Look at back of the master at the booster for wetness. If its wet new master.

The tail gate has an access panel on the inside. You need to get the window inside and put the gate down.
 

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