CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

1989 Toyota 4Runner

Building the truck my friend won’t be able to
You have two helpers, that need to learn. Though their attention, and their little legs may not last ;)
 
Well I rebled it. Also learned I needed to bleed the load adjusting valve in the back. Got some air out of there and a bunch of nasty fluid. Brakes are better but still go about halfway down before they start to grab. Probably need to replace all the rubber lines next but for now I can lock the brakes up with a bit of effort so I’m happy.

Replaced turn signal bulbs but that didn’t fix the non working front one. Think the relay is still on the fritz as it froze up again on me today. That and the right one is getting at least 10v with the hazards on and the left is only getting about 6v.

Factory water temp gauge still doesn’t work even after a new sender. Think I’m just gonna go cheap auto parts store coolant gauge and call it good.

Decided to go ahead and drive the thing. Took it up to 60mph and it’s smooth as glass. No wobbles or bouncing or vibrations or weird noises. There’s about a quarter turn of play in the steering wheel, 3rd is a bit tricky to grab, and the shocks are completely shot, but man, it was nice to drive it.
 
A lot of wiring issues can be traced down to simple things like bad grounds, or loose connections. If you haven't yet just do some poking around, and/or post up some wiring diagrams.
 
I’ve done some research on the water temp and it may be a winding in the motor of the gauge that’s gone broken. Not sure I want to tear apart a 35yo dash and plastic to try and fix that.

As far as the flasher relay, pretty convinced it’s the issue. When I first got the truck it didn’t work at all. Flip the blinker on and the dash light would illuminate and the bulbs would light up but no flash. Same with hazards. I pulled it out and put it back in (mainly cause I got the wrong replacement part) and it started to work. Then it started freezing up intermittently. It needs to be replaced regardless so figure I’ll start there with troubleshooting.
 
New flasher module didn’t fix the blinker. Pulled the left housing out (non working) and put it on the right side (working) and the problem followed. Plugged the right housing into the left socket and it worked just fine. Tells me the problem is at the housing.

It’s fairly corroded in here. Buddy of mine suggested wiping it down with white vinegar to help clean it. Thoughts? Are there new housings available aftermarket? Don’t really wanna try and unpin and pull apart 35yr old plastic and rubber.IMG_1756.jpegIMG_1757.jpeg
 
If you can’t fix it easily I’d just replace it.
 
yeah a flasher effects all lamps not just one or two. round wire brush in the bulb socket, ohm check that center pin to and brass socket to connector. Take a pair of needle nose and tweak the socket ears in wee bit, to contacted the bulb better.
 
I figured there was another reason, why I didn't to it speak earlier when you mentioned it. It sounds like much of the electrical will need some attention.
 
Honestly it’s just this one thing. Absolutely everything else is solid. Except the temp gauge but meh.

But I have not checked the AC. I’m scared. I’m tired of fixing shit haha.
 
Rubber brake lines replaced. Made a small amount of difference in the brakes.

Went to start it and it clicked. Charged it overnight. Click. Put a jump pack on it. Click. Pulled the starter and hooked it to another battery and it spun just fine. Hooked it to the battery in the 4Runner and nothing. Took it to o’reilly’s because it’s under warranty (bought in August). They said it tested good and can’t warranty it. Also said it was the smallest battery available and they’ll sell me the bigger one and warranty the small one. $115 later I installed the new battery. Click.

Did some reading and these years may have come wired wrong from the factory. Instead of their being a wire direct from relay to battery, it runs through the ignition switch. Decided to run one straight to the battery like the write up says. Boom. She fired off.

Added it to insurance yesterday. Inspection on Monday. And if all goes well, she’s legally driveable.

IMG_1928.jpeg
 
Starter locked up on me again. Had to pull start it. Solenoid thunks hard like usual but it would not spin the starter. Even hooked a jumper cable up from my buddy’s diesel direct to the main lead on the starter and nothing. So time to swap that out.

Also going to upgrade some of the wiring. Going to run 2ga from battery to starter and from battery to block and then 4ga from battery to fender and block to firewall. Also found my fusible link is in less than stellar condition and was just jammed into the terminal and one of the grounds was fraying. Always something.
img_1970-jpeg.469796
IMG_1971.jpeg

IMG_1970.jpeg
 
Top Bottom