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CK5
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1990 2500 Suburban
- Thread starter DRYANKNPULL
- Start date
I was looking at the rp’s and one of them is for California emission requirements. I can’t find any info on what that actually means.
The truck drives well, however the steering seems pretty vague. I’m figuring I’ll need to get that sorted out first. I’ve redone the front end before and remember it being at the edge of my abilities. I know I want to get rid of the self locking hubs. I’ve never had them not fail. I would like to rebuild everything short of the differential. I’m weighing doing it myself or hiring it out. I have most of the equipment and the time.
I’ve ordered the ord steering brace and went ahead and got the repair bracket. I‘m hoping to get a buddy help with welding. I’m going to order the custom springs from ord in 4”. Their site says it’s 10-13 week lead time. I’m planning on keeping the stock bumpers. I’ve been trying to find a decent brush guard that I can add while still retaining the bumper. Any ideas?
It’s hard to believe that these were the premium wheel option. I like the Mickey Thompson classic. I’m assuming a 17” would offer more of a tire selection for 35” tires? I’ve often been confused about offset. Any advice would be appreciated.
I’m jealous. Would love to have it just how it sits.
Martin
Martin
Definitely. 17's are by far the most popular tire and wheel option out there right now.
Good looking rig!
not sure what style of brush guard your looking for but the old CUCV guards were just flat strap and a piece of square tube. ive seen people make their own and i have modified a few.
I’ve taken the old steering gear off. It was all pretty worn out. I ordered the custom 4” springs from ord. Looks like it will be a couple of months. I have the parts on the way to redo the wheel bearings and new hub locks. I’m planning on running 35” tires. I know nothing about regearing a diff. The factory gear ratio is 3.73. What should I regear to? Should I have that done before doing the new wheel bearings and hubs? Can I just bring the axels to the shop and have it done or do they need to be on the truck?
Really 35’s can be done with 3:73’s unless your gonna go wheel it hard. Most shops charge a better rate if the axle is out of the truck, they do not need to be in the truck.
sweet burb. I have a 90 2x4, but it looks it's age...
I’m making a little headway. More head scratching than wrenching. I have the steering box off and the ord brace ready to go on after the paint dries. The fame looks good behind it. I think I found why the steering was wonky. There is no nut on the pitman arm. I have the service manual on order, so hopefully that will help with some of my questions. Maybe y’all can endure some neophyte questions.
1. What power steering fluid is best to replace what was in it?
2. I‘ve seen some steering upgrades on line like putting in a Jeep steering shaft. Since I have all of this apart, is there anything like that worth doing?
3. I cut the breather line on the front differential. Is there a specific part number to replace it with?
1. What power steering fluid is best to replace what was in it?
2. I‘ve seen some steering upgrades on line like putting in a Jeep steering shaft. Since I have all of this apart, is there anything like that worth doing?
3. I cut the breather line on the front differential. Is there a specific part number to replace it with?
Got the steering and suspension done. Back on the road.
fordmas
Partially sentient meat based robot
what a clean looking truck! Lift looks great
David had me swap a 502 in this awesome machine.
Before
Before
During
After?
Martin
Martin
This where my brackets came from?
