i have replaced the valve seals in my 350,this is a completely stock engine,what would be the correct way of adjusting valve lash? Hydraulic lifters,cold engine?
CK5
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1990 350 tbi,valve adjustment done!
- Thread starter snowdriver
- Start date
Who is going to be the first to take the bate on how to do a valve adjustment, and then get flamed for being wrong. 
You-tube is your friend, All different ways to adjust.
I like the running method.....
Stinky
Registered Member
Here is the Reader's Digest version....I don't know if hot or cold is best, pull a VC, loosen a rocker nut till it clatters, tighten it till it just stops and then 1/4-1/2 turn tighter. You can cut the center out of a valve cover in order to reduce the oil leakage, but it ain't worth the trouble
Lol,well I will come up with a proper method and let you all know how to do this 
Seems to happen every time. I quoted the Chiltons last time and got bomb by one in particularWho is going to be the first to take the bate on how to do a valve adjustment, and then get flamed for being wrong.
Seems everyone has their own method..
Me,I like to adjust hydraulic lifters "cold" with the engine off,via the Motors or Chilton's manual method-..they tell you to turn the engine over to #1 TDC compression stroke and adjust the following valves :
Exhaust valves on cylinders # 1,3,4,8
Intake valves on cylinders #1,2,5,7
Turn engine to the #6 TDC compression stroke and adjust:
Exhaust Valves on cylinders #2,5,6,7
Intake valves on cylinders #3,4,6,8
The rocker nuts are tightened just enough to "feel" the pushrod become too hard to spin by hand,that is "zero lash"...then tighten the nut the additional amount of turns specified,usually 1 turn from zero lash..(some anti-pump up lifters or high lift cams do not need as much pre-load,and may specify 1/2 turn or other spec--best to follow the reccomendations provided with the particular cam selected.)
If done right,you can slap the valve covers on and start it up with no need for further adjusting--though sometimes a "running" final adjustment does make it run better,especially if you put new lifters in and they may not have been fully primed..you might want to get a pair of crappy valve covers to cut open to use while adjusting to prevent oil from splattering all over the car,you,and the shop..
Those "oil deflector clips" they sell can fly off in the middle of the job and make a big mess..in a pinch I have cleaned the rocker arms off with carb or brake cleaner and put duct tape over the push rod holes--it lasts long enough to get the job over with usually.
Me,I like to adjust hydraulic lifters "cold" with the engine off,via the Motors or Chilton's manual method-..they tell you to turn the engine over to #1 TDC compression stroke and adjust the following valves :
Exhaust valves on cylinders # 1,3,4,8
Intake valves on cylinders #1,2,5,7
Turn engine to the #6 TDC compression stroke and adjust:
Exhaust Valves on cylinders #2,5,6,7
Intake valves on cylinders #3,4,6,8
The rocker nuts are tightened just enough to "feel" the pushrod become too hard to spin by hand,that is "zero lash"...then tighten the nut the additional amount of turns specified,usually 1 turn from zero lash..(some anti-pump up lifters or high lift cams do not need as much pre-load,and may specify 1/2 turn or other spec--best to follow the reccomendations provided with the particular cam selected.)
If done right,you can slap the valve covers on and start it up with no need for further adjusting--though sometimes a "running" final adjustment does make it run better,especially if you put new lifters in and they may not have been fully primed..you might want to get a pair of crappy valve covers to cut open to use while adjusting to prevent oil from splattering all over the car,you,and the shop..
Those "oil deflector clips" they sell can fly off in the middle of the job and make a big mess..in a pinch I have cleaned the rocker arms off with carb or brake cleaner and put duct tape over the push rod holes--it lasts long enough to get the job over with usually.
Stinky
Registered Member
Here is a link.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/#/topics/132599?page=4
I found another one, but couldn't find it twice, that link said that Chevy recommends doing a running adjustment.
I'll amend my 1st thread...tighten it 1/4 turn after they stop clicking.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/#/topics/132599?page=4
I found another one, but couldn't find it twice, that link said that Chevy recommends doing a running adjustment.
I'll amend my 1st thread...tighten it 1/4 turn after they stop clicking.
Finished my valve seal replacement job,no more puff of blue on start up,or when leaving stop lights after idling for a couple minutes
As far as adjusting the valves I made sure each valve was completely closed and ran the nut down till I could not rotate the push rod any more,then I added a 1/2 turn,called it good,and no clatter and runs great
As far as adjusting the valves I made sure each valve was completely closed and ran the nut down till I could not rotate the push rod any more,then I added a 1/2 turn,called it good,and no clatter and runs great
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
I use companion cylinder method. Domt feel like typing it up. Or factory manuals of you follow the order know you dont have a flat cam.
But seriously, millions of SB chevys on the road and a few ways to do it. The running method is not my favorite and messy. Never a fan if i can do it dry and never adjust for years later then it saves time doing it right the 1st time
But seriously, millions of SB chevys on the road and a few ways to do it. The running method is not my favorite and messy. Never a fan if i can do it dry and never adjust for years later then it saves time doing it right the 1st time
