CK5
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1990 K5 Duramax Blazer (BroDozer)
- Thread starter Fancy
- Start date
LB7 Duramax and Allison 1000 5 speed in a 1990 Chevy K5 Blazer
Ordered a new billet cap and cover from PSC Motorsports, cleaned up all the internals and components and resealed everything. After doing a lot of research i was lead to believe that Saginaw steering boxes always came with an even number of ball bearings. Either 22 or 24, and in two different sizes which you had to alternate. After talking to a few people and the professionals over at PSC, it was discovered that this was not necessarily the case. I only obtained 25 ball bearings out of mine (thinking i had lost one) and when i was sent fresh bearings by PSC they were all the same size and the box fit 26 and seems to function just fine. Big shout out to Daniel Smith over at PSC for helping me navigate the confusion and selling me the needed parts. I originally tried to install the bearing while the piston was inside the housing and it was achievable however i quickly discovered it was far easier to do while out side the housing and then using a rubber hose and grease to hold them in place while installing the piston. In my case a 3/8th rubber hose did the trick. Another struggle point was installing the components with fresh seals without tearing the nylon seals. A piston ring compressor was a huge help for this.
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I decided to go with dupli color engine enamel in cast iron grey for the housing as i will be using the same color on some of the engine components and i think it matches well with the chevy orange. Overall im really happy with how it came out with some minor imperfections. Just need to make the final adjustments and set the specs.
I also added some Everbuilt 6AN to 16mm & 6AN to 18mm power steering fittings with O rings and capped them ready for hoses in the future.
I also added some Everbuilt 6AN to 16mm & 6AN to 18mm power steering fittings with O rings and capped them ready for hoses in the future.
Simply beautiful.
I failed to mention it earlier, there was an episode or 12 where the boys on power nation dropped an earlier dmax in a square body.
I watched it a few years ago...
I failed to mention it earlier, there was an episode or 12 where the boys on power nation dropped an earlier dmax in a square body.
I watched it a few years ago...
Thanks! Ya i referenced those for some guidance but i could never find the full episode or series unless you paid online. Just highlights and promotional segments. I don't have TV either so that was out. They seemed like cool episodes though.
So not a lot of reportable progress as my time has been consumed else where. However i did attach the document that help guide the steering box rebuild. I wasn't about to drop money on expensive tools that i would rarely use, but i wanted to be able to set up the end play correctly and effectively. I ended up fabricating a pair of tools to do the trick and they worked out perfectly. I started by cutting two round circles out of 3/16 plate. I then welded a cheap 3/4 inch socket and two dowels to one to make the spanner tool to set the proper torque on the preload bearing. I then cut a hole and welded a large nut to the other that would fit over the spanner socket, then welded tabs to catch and lock the locking ring in place while holing the proper preload. I then coated them in Lizard Skin Top Coat to help preserve them. Hopefully some more updates to come soon.
Finally got both door jams done. Raptor Lined the door jams using the Raptor Liner 2K aerosol cans, one can for each side. This gave a perfect texture that is easy to wipe down but hopefully very durable. At first i was worried because it was still soft after a week and i didn't think it was going to hold up. After about 2 weeks it was noticeably harder and seems pretty durable. I then used Precision Replacement Parts Door Seal Kit (Part # DWP-1110-73 linked below) to install new seals on both sides and fresh door hinges from United Pacific that i got off Amazon. I went with Auveco 23644 Hex Head SEMS Body Bolts to replace the hinge and body hardware (linked below). I also decided to spice it up with LS Fabrications billet door strikers which were pricy but i think look amazing. Those guys were also very cool to work with and i plan on doing more business with them in the future. Link to door strikers below. More to come soon.
www.summitracing.com
ls-fab.com
Precision Replacement Parts DWP 1110 73 Precision Replacement Parts Door Seals | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Precision Replacement Parts Door Seals with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Weatherstrip Seals, Individual Position at Summit Racing.
HEX HD SEMS BODY BOLT W/DOG POINT 3/8-16 X 1-3/16 - BLACK
HEX HD SEMS BODY BOLT W/DOG POINT 3/8-16 X 1-3/16 - BLACK
www.auveco.com
Billet Door Strikers - 73-87 GMC Chevy Squarebody C10 Truck - LS Fabrication
The best custom Billet Door Strikers - 73-87 GMC Chevy Squarebody C10 Truck on the aftermarket. Order now from the best catalog for classic truck parts.
ls-fab.com
So first off, i can't say enough great things about the guys over at Steering Column Services (linked below). Not only is the website super helpful but their customer support and workmanship is stellar. For a little back story i sent my column in a few years back for a complete rebuild and they did an awesome job. Unfortunately FedEx decided to play soccer with the package on the way back. At that point i was on a tight schedule to make an annual camping trip my friends and i did every year and was in no position to send the column back in to be fixed. Doug was able to refund me for the column from the shipping insurance and help get me the correct parts that were broken so i could fix it later as it was just cosmetic. Since the truck is apart, i figured now would be a good time to tackle that project, but of course i decided to break the whole column down and restore it completely. lol
https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/gmtilt.php
https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/gmtilt.php
The video from YouTube linked below was a huge help getting past the tricky parts. I also used Powerbuilt Master Steering Wheel Repair Tool Set Part #648748 which turned out to be a nice kit and have all the tools needed for this project. I purchased it off amazon and have it linked below. I also used an SQ5 square drive i purchased off amazon to remove the tilt spring locking cap witch worked nicely.
https://youtu.be/UNnZ-ntn_Js
I coated the main body tube with the Lizard Skin Top Coat. I really like that textured look and it helps hide small dings and dents. I then coated the plastic pieces in Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer. Then i used Dupli-Color Low Gloss Black paint DE1634 for the metal parts as it was a perfect match to the plastic resurfacer. I also wire wheel the inner shafts and coated them in a clear and lubricant to prevent corrosion.
www.summitracing.com
www.eastwood.com
https://youtu.be/UNnZ-ntn_Js
I coated the main body tube with the Lizard Skin Top Coat. I really like that textured look and it helps hide small dings and dents. I then coated the plastic pieces in Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer. Then i used Dupli-Color Low Gloss Black paint DE1634 for the metal parts as it was a perfect match to the plastic resurfacer. I also wire wheel the inner shafts and coated them in a clear and lubricant to prevent corrosion.
LizardSkin 3010-1 LizardSkin TopCoat | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - LizardSkin TopCoat with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Thermal Barrier Coatings at Summit Racing.
Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer Matte Black Aerosol
Don’t mess with temporary trim products, do it right with Eastwood Plastic Resurfacer
The attention to detail on this is amazing
I cleaned each part as i reassembled it and lubricated were necessary. I had a hard time finding a lock housing cover and dimmer cap cover that fit together with the seams lining up and looking clean. I read a ton of bad reviews on Standard Motor Products US165L kit but for $25 i decided to take the risk. The parts fit together perfectly but the finish on the main cover was terrible. Since i planned to refinish it any way to match the rest of the column i didn't mind this. I also mounted the bass knob for the sound system i plan to put in to the bottom of the column and ran the cable through it with the rest of the wires. Then cut, connected and mounted it to a CAT 6 passthrough on the bottom of the column mount. I also wrapped the exposed wire in wire fabric to clean it up.
It is a gift and a curse trust me
Here the column is fully mounted back in the truck. Haven't decided what i want to do for the steering wheel yet but will leave that for a later date. I also may redo that the top cover as it received a few scratched waiting to be installed but they are hardly noticeable. More to come very soon when i can find some more time to capture progress and post.
So naturally life has been full of distractions and my shop build has been delayed which is what I'm waiting on before i get into the meat of this build. I have been picking away at the body and other tasks, most of which i don't have all documented to share yet but a little of what i do i will post up now. I decided to coat the bed rails and jam between the hard top and body in the Raptor Liner 2K aerosol. I'm pretty happy with how that stuff has been turning out. I marked off the inside rail so that when the top is on, you should not be able to see the bed liner. I then taped off everything using my marks to keep the lines straight in appearance. I also installed a new lower jam seal.
Next, i wanted to address the interior roof of the cab. It had a bunch of holes from a previous overhead screen install gone horribly wrong. I tack welded up all the holes and sanded them out. I then used a little bondo just to help smooth out the appearance. I coated it again in that lizard skin top coat just for some texture.
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The roof is defiantly one of the biggest rattle noises coming from harmonics in that large smooth surface. I chose to use a three layer sound deadener that i have found and been using on most my projects now. I went with NVX's SDBP40. I bought it off Amazon but i have also linked their website. What i like about it is that it has the traditional butyl tar layer topped with the aluminum and then a layer of closed cell foam for sound absorption. It sticks well and is also super easy to cur and apply.
nvx.com
SDBP40 40 Square Feet Sound Deadening Kit - Ten 18" x 32" Pieces
Product Details: Ten 18" x 32" Pieces of Sound Dampening Material 90.55mil thick (2.3mm)! There are cheaper, inferior solutions at 50-80mil, but we do not recommend that thin of a solution as it will not perform as well. 40 Square feet total Complete sound damping kit for entire vehicle/car. Can...
Awesome build with great attention to detail. Definitely badass that you’re putting a Duramax in it.
