1990 Silverado Regular Cab - Lift Questions - NEWBIE to Chevy IFS

[ZombieK5]

I'm looking for some advice. I'm used to the K5 solid axle suspensions and the science of the pickup truck suspensions has me at a disadvantage.

The 1990 Silverado I purchased is probably in need of a mild lift. Probably less than 4" and hopefully between two and three inches. My issue is that it came with 285/ 55r20 Nitto's that were near the end of their life. Yesterday I went and got 275/ 65r20 Bridgestones. I thought I did the math right and I thought that the tires would fit fine but they do not. (1000% my fault - shoulda gone with 275 55/20's) The front tires definitely rub the lower edge of the front fenders and any compression will cause the tires to rub the front bumper. Without returning these tires, I'm assuming I need to lift the truck. I don't want to make it too crazy because I still want my wife to be able to get in and out of the vehicle. I also don't want to go crazy on the cost because I'm spending all my money on my Blazer build. That being said, I looked into some of the lift kits and specifically looked at Rough Country but decided against it since it has such horrible reviews. I am new to the concept of using a torsion bar to lift the truck but I understand the concept. I'm guessing I probably need a 2 OR 3 inch BODY lift but I'm also interested in some type of suspension lift. Any thoughts or ideas?

Can I simply get away with using the aftermarket torsion bar adjustment keys to get one or maybe 2 in of lift? I've seen several comments that say it is possible without lowering the differential. This also reportedly doesn't affect ride quality very much.

I am concerned about alignment and keeping it from losing alignment. The issue with positive camber is concerning. My thoughts on the back end would be to use an Add-a-Leaf instead of a block or maybe doing Add-a-leaf and using a 1 inch block if I need to lift it a little bit higher. Again, this will be simply driven on highways and dirt trails. No off-roading.

Any thoughts and recommendations are welcome. Also, I was planning on going with Bilstein shocks no matter what shocks may come with a kit.

 

[Blue85]

(1000% my fault - shoulda gone with 285/70R17)

Fixed it for you.

Doing a full suspension lift on these is a big can of worms. There's a reason so many of them got body lifts. I wouldn't try to get more than about 3/4" using torsion keys. There should be some options to space the bumper a tick and maybe trim the lip at the bottom of the fender. Also, depending on the stance it has now, you may not need as much lift in the back as you do in the front.

Do you really need to run that size tire - as in is that the design constraint? Because it's way cheaper to swap tires than get a lift kit.

 

[ZombieK5]

Fixed it for you.

Doing a full suspension lift on these is a big can of worms. There's a reason so many of them got body lifts. I wouldn't try to get more than about 3/4" using torsion keys. There should be some options to space the bumper a tick and maybe trim the lip at the bottom of the fender. Also, depending on the stance it has now, you may not need as much lift in the back as you do in the front.

Do you really need to run that size tire - as in is that the design constraint? Because it's way cheaper to swap tires than get a lift kit.

As I said, the tires are 100% my fault. I'm kind of stuck with them now. I can see the benefit of doing the body lift. I'll try a 3-in body lift and see where that gets me. I'll get the new torsion keys and see if I can get 3/4 to an inch out of them without causing any issues. I'm planning on getting one of those DIY weld it yourself bumpers from MOVE. That should allow me to custom mount the bumper in relation to the body. I can also Custom Trim the steel of the bumper to avoid any interference with the tires.

Worst case in the rear, I can get some quarter inch or even half inch steel plate and create my own spacer if I need to raise the backend. I've seen one Inch spacers for sale that are made from Steel anything larger is usually made from nylon. I wouldn't mind having the rear end a touch taller than the front to add a more aggressive stance but I'll deal with the front end first.

 

[sweetk30]

All my years in lift kit world the 88-98 gmt400 trucks SUCK For quality suspension lifts . Go body lift or correct tire size and save the hassle of suspension lift . . . . Or just solid axle swap it .

 

[SPLATT]

One problem with torsion keys and cranking them is you start getting outside of the ball joints range of motion as well as putting a bit more stress on the CV axles.

 

[yblow]

If you can find a used lift kit on marketplace. I found a used Fabtec lift for my truck when I did mine. The only rite way to lift ifs is to drop the axle with lift spindles. I have a set of lift spindles from my fabtec lift I didn’t use and a set of suspensionmax cam torsion keys I’m not using.

 

[Gibby56]

This gets my vote.

IFS delete

 

[ZombieK5]

This gets my vote.

IFS delete

That looks like fun and very expensive once an axle is acquired, springs purchased, new driveshaft(s), modify the Xfer case shifting mechanism and probably a bunch of other things.

Still, looks like fun

 

[ZombieK5]

One problem with torsion keys and cranking them is you start getting outside of the ball joints range of motion as well as putting a bit more stress on the CV axles.

I'm only hoping to get 3/4" lift and then I'll get a 3" body lift

 

[ZombieK5]

If you can find a used lift kit on marketplace. I found a used Fabtec lift for my truck when I did mine. The only rite way to lift ifs is to drop the axle with lift spindles. I have a set of lift spindles from my fabtec lift I didn’t use and a set of suspensionmax cam torsion keys I’m not using.

I couldn't find info about Fabtec lifts or lifts Spindles for thr 88-98 trucks. Is the Spindle for a 4wd truck?

 

[yblow]

This gets my vote.

IFS delete

Wfo makes a kit for 05 Dana 60.

I couldn't find info about Fabtec lifts or lifts Spindles for thr 88-98 trucks. Is the Spindle for a 4wd truck?

Fabtech doesn’t make the kit anymore I was able to aquire some of the drop brackets. The spindles are for a 4x4 1/2 ton.

 

[ZombieK5]

Wfo makes a kit for 05 Dana 60.



Fabtech doesn’t make the kit anymore I was able to aquire some of the drop brackets. The spindles are for a 4x4 1/2 ton.

View attachment 486023

Those are interesting. If I went forward with some type of lift I still don't know whether I would go with a prepackaged kit, maybe using those drop spindles, or doing the axle swap. Obviously I'm not doing this tomorrow. I think I'm going to go forward with the body lift just so I can still drive the car and not have the front tires tear apart the bumper.

Send me a PM about what you would sell those spindles for. I may still be interested in them just in case I go with a prepackaged kit.

 

[Todd6500]

Those are interesting. If I went forward with some type of lift I still don't know whether I would go with a prepackaged kit, maybe using those drop spindles, or doing the axle swap. Obviously I'm not doing this tomorrow. I think I'm going to go forward with the body lift just so I can still drive the car and not have the front tires tear apart the bumper.

Send me a PM about what you would sell those spindles for. I may still be interested in them just in case I go with a prepackaged kit.

Torsion keys are a waist of money and alot of work to install. Just crank up the preload bolts to get that little bit of lift. Unless your rear springs sagging you won't need to do anything out back. You could use a chunk of flat steel if you need a little boost. The best way to do it on the cheap is drill a center hole and run the spring bolt through the plate and spring pack. If you don't, you will have no way to locate the axle properly. Also do not reuse the u-bolts. Most times they don't like to come out any way. I don't rememder what year they started tp put them on upside-down, but if you are replacing them flip them over so the threads point up. You increase your clearance and remove stuff to get caught on. You can make them fairly easy and cheap out of cold rolled steel, or buy them premade as well.

 

[The Butcher]

Do a 2" body lift, and relocate your bumpers. That should be enough to clear those tires, and doesn't leave as much frame hanging down under the truck as the 3" does. Do NOT crank your torsion bars, or use torsion keys. You will constanty have to mess with keeping the CV boots on, if not having to replace the whole CV axle. I've been lifting those trucks since 1992, and I've done just about every variation of them that keeps IFS (haven't done solid axle swaps). I've found the 2" body lift clears 33" tires assuming your wheel offset isn't crazy wide.

Rough Country gets a bad wrap, but I did a 6" on a 1999 K3500 single cab dually a couple years ago, and I was impressed with the quality. I threw out the OE factory rear leaf springs, and did 4" ProComp leaf springs out back. The ride was phenomenal. That sounds like more lift than you want or need, but thought I'd chime in that the Rough Country stuff isn't terrible. Build quality was pretty good, and my mechanic (who has done just about every lift kit brand) said it went on pretty easy.

 

[ZombieK5]

Do a 2" body lift, and relocate your bumpers. That should be enough to clear those tires, and doesn't leave as much frame hanging down under the truck as the 3" does. Do NOT crank your torsion bars, or use torsion keys. You will constanty have to mess with keeping the CV boots on, if not having to replace the whole CV axle. I've been lifting those trucks since 1992, and I've done just about every variation of them that keeps IFS (haven't done solid axle swaps). I've found the 2" body lift clears 33" tires assuming your wheel offset isn't crazy wide.

Rough Country gets a bad wrap, but I did a 6" on a 1999 K3500 single cab dually a couple years ago, and I was impressed with the quality. I threw out the OE factory rear leaf springs, and did 4" ProComp leaf springs out back. The ride was phenomenal. That sounds like more lift than you want or need, but thought I'd chime in that the Rough Country stuff isn't terrible. Build quality was pretty good, and my mechanic (who has done just about every lift kit brand) said it went on pretty easy.

View attachment 486472

So far I've only been able to locate a 3-in lift kit. They come with a 3-in nylon spacers. Rough Country sells them in a couple other vendors. Do you know of any vendor that sells a 2 inch lift kit without me having to buy a 3 inch and cutting them? I just purchased polyurethane body mounts. The existing rubber ones are sagging a little bit and I'm going to replace them at the same time I put the lift on. Any other advice?

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

pa10012 | 2in Body Lift | Chevy/GMC 1500/2500

This complete 2 inch body lift kit fits all 2WD and 4WD, Chevy and GMC, 1500 and 2500 models. Made in the USA, this high strength kit makes room for tires up to 32in in diameter. Installs in 6 hours. Backed by a lifetime warranty. Free shipping. | Performance Accessories pa10012

www.daystarsuspensionparts.com

 

[sweetk30]

Stay away from rough country there is a reason there so cheep .

When i was installing lift kits i would refuse any job with there crap .

 

[ZombieK5]

pa10012 | 2in Body Lift | Chevy/GMC 1500/2500

This complete 2 inch body lift kit fits all 2WD and 4WD, Chevy and GMC, 1500 and 2500 models. Made in the USA, this high strength kit makes room for tires up to 32in in diameter. Installs in 6 hours. Backed by a lifetime warranty. Free shipping. | Performance Accessories pa10012

www.daystarsuspensionparts.com

Thanks. Little pricey as compared to some. Other kits but I've also never found a 2" kit. Says up. To 32" tires. Unfortunately mine are about 33.25" - 33.5"

I may be stuck going with a 3" kit. These trucks are never easy, guess that's why their so much fun.

 

[ZombieK5]

Stay away from rough country there is a reason there so cheep .

When i was installing lift kits i would refuse any job with there crap .

I've decided to definitely skip the suspension lift. Chevy definitely did not do us any favors with the design of these trucks in this year range.

I've decided to swap out the body mass with polyurethane and go with a 3 in lift. I think that's the only lift that will allow me to run the tires that I bought.

 

[Blue85]

Yesterday I went and got 275/ 65r20 Bridgestones.

This still hasn't been answered. Why do you want to run 20" rims on a 1990 truck? You also haven't talked about what wheels you have and the offset.

Do you really need to run that size tire - as in is that the design constraint? Because it's way cheaper to swap tires than get a lift kit.

As I said, the tires are 100% my fault. I'm kind of stuck with them now.

Sure, you would lose something selling them, but a brand new set of tires is usually easy to sell. I can't see basing your whole build around something that's going to wear out anyway. It's been fairly well established you can fit 33's on these trucks, but you need to know what backspacing to use.

Stay away from Rough Country. There is a reason they're so cheap.

When I was installing lift kits, I would refuse any job with their crap.

Is there really any problem with a RC body lift? It's spacers and bolts. I just wasn't sure if you have experience with 90's IFS body lift kits from RC or some of their other products.