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1991 Crewcab front coil over input

In everyone's opinion, what is most important on the panhard bar? Should I be more concerned with having it as close to parallel with the drag link, or as long as possible? I know ideally both but if you had to fudge a little on one which would it be?
 
Parallel more directly works with bumpsteer which you see the benefits every time you drive it. Length is mostly shown its drawbacks at the extremes of travel.
 
Go full hydro steering and make the panhard as long as reasonablely possible, and as close too “level” as you can at static ride height.


If Full Hydro isn’t possible then you need your drag link and panhard to be at the same angle
 
obijuank5 said:
Parallel more directly works with bumpsteer which you see the benefits every time you drive it. Length is mostly shown its drawbacks at the extremes of travel.
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That makes a lot of sense, any idea of what a decent margin of error would be for the difference in angles. I am going to get it as close as I can without going crazy!
 
yellowK20 said:
Go full hydro steering and make the panhard as long as reasonablely possible, and as close too “level” as you can at static ride height.


If Full Hydro isn’t possible then you need your drag link and panhard to be at the same angle
Click to expand...

Full hydro is not a option, but I will try to get them as close as possible to the same angle.
 
If your looking straight on at my truck, you can't see the panhard. It's 100% the same angle as the drag link, and that's through 90% of the travel. They are slightly different at full droop and full bump. No measureable bumpsteer either. Angle over length every day. Don't get me wrong, make it as long as possible
 
mckustomfab said:
That makes a lot of sense, any idea of what a decent margin of error would be for the difference in angles. I am going to get it as close as I can without going crazy!
Click to expand...
I mean perfection isn't really attainable with all that business going on up front when working with existing parts. Just make it as long as possible. I dont know what your tolerances can be but it's not rocket surgery.
 
jkroberts said:
If your looking straight on at my truck, you can't see the panhard. It's 100% the same angle as the drag link, and that's through 90% of the travel. They are slightly different at full droop and full bump. No measureable bumpsteer either. Angle over length every day. Don't get me wrong, make it as long as possible
Click to expand...

obijuank5 said:
I mean perfection isn't really attainable with all that business going on up front when working with existing parts. Just make it as long as possible. I dont know what your tolerances can be but it's not rocket surgery.
Click to expand...

So this is what it looks like right now, my calibrated wooden block is mocking up the height of the high steer arm. My drag link may end up being a straight link but for now that is what I had on hand, the angle look pretty close at ride height, I need to cycle it more to confirm but I also need to make a little more room between my crossmember and panhard bar too.
full
 
I say run it! Doesn't matter if the bar is bent. As long as the line between the pivots is parallel you will be good. Looks like you already have that part figured out! What I would do is get your steering finished, then build the panhard mount to match
 
jkroberts said:
I say run it! Doesn't matter if the bar is bent. As long as the line between the pivots is parallel you will be good. Looks like you already have that part figured out! What I would do is get your steering finished, then build the panhard mount to match
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They are pretty close to parallel right now, I need to do some adjusting to make sure the panhard bar clears the engine crossmember and double check that the steering won't contact the panhard bar when turning. Then I will be able to send out my knuckle to get it machined for the steer arm and finalize everything, hopefully...
 
Looking for some opinions and input... After mocking up the high steer location it became clear that it would not work. I am going to have to use the stock location, this means that unless I go to heim's (which I want to avoid) I will have to use the stock superduty drag link end. I am going to have to get a custom drag link made with the goofy 1"-16tpi on one end and the GM TRE thread on the other. I have mocked it up with both a straight link and a ORD bent drag link, I feel like the bent link is better to keep the joint angle less extreme. What I am wondering is, should I bend my link with more drop down than the ORD link? I dont expect to have this truck at full droop ever but wonder if a little more drop would help with longevity...

Clearance
full

Straight link
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Bent link
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Looking for coil mounting ideas. I had originally wanted to use offset lower mounts but now that most everything is in there it doesn't look like they will work like I was hoping. I am trying to avoid moving or relocating too much stuff on the driver side so I will probably mount the lower mount on top of the axle tube but, the upper mount maybe interesting. I have a set of 180* shock hoops on the way and I hope they will fit in there better than the Ruff stuff ones I have. Lets see what you guys did for mounts...

full
 
I’m just poking around on here and read through your project.
I’m just curious about the D60 and 14BFF that you have replaced. Have they found a new home?
Not to be vulture... but just curious for my own less complicated project.
 
B.N.Z.MTNS said:
I’m just poking around on here and read through your project.
I’m just curious about the D60 and 14BFF that you have replaced. Have they found a new home?
Not to be vulture... but just curious for my own less complicated project.
Click to expand...
I know he had a pair for sale earlier this year.
 
B.N.Z.MTNS said:
I’m just poking around on here and read through your project.
I’m just curious about the D60 and 14BFF that you have replaced. Have they found a new home?
Not to be vulture... but just curious for my own less complicated project.
Click to expand...

Yeah the axles are gone, used them to help fund the coilovers.
 
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