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1992 454 swap into a 86. (now changed to a 496)

for sure, laying down a layer of sound deadner, then carpet. you can see where I did sound/heat deadner on the inside firewall, it's a tar/aluminum padding used to fix roofs. It is way cheaper than dynamat and looks about the same and to do the whole inside of the burb like I plan would cost a fortune with dynamat.

Anyway I am holding off until I get the new seats so any welding I need to do for structrual support wont mess up my new carpet. I am gonna use newer style seats with the intergrated seat belts so the mounting points need to be able to carry all the load. I am sure I can use the same mounting brackets in the front by modifying them a litle, and the middle row is flat so should bolt right in, but the third row may need a little more fab work.
 
Feels great to do that doesn't it? I remember back in high school after I had done the motor swap in my 81 Jimmy I went driving and felt like the king of the world:pimp: Then my neighbor showed me how to really tune it and adjust the timing and I felt silly, because I had it set at 5* at idle, and would max out at 12* under load... He set it at 23* at idle (? can't remember exactly) and it doubled the power. Then I felt really awesome!! My girlfriend did too:D
 
whoa!


I didn't know that panel was available...got some thinnin to do...:whistle:
 
Fender flare time.
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not the eaisest thing in the world to put on and for sure two man job, but I like it. still got to go back and sand the whole rig and do some more welding of panels and fix some rust spots then can spray primer right. just rattle can for now but it will do.
 
Did my tune up today and found some issues, not all the plugs were firing good, prolly because the cap was on loose, three of the hold down things were off and not holding it down at all. I bet that was the main problem.

Up first this aint right

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It broke when I took it out but suspect it was cracked already.

Those were 2 thur 8

Here is 1 thru 5

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Can tell 5 was not burnin right

And the new plugs


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Old wires


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Even took the belt off and cleaned pullys to try and stop squeel

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Made me a tool to take the belt off, welded and old wrench to an old tire tool.

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So bad news all that work for nothing, the was almost worse!! Squeels just as bad and constant unless at idle so not sure how to cure that.

Good news, Subzila will walk off and leave my wifes Camaro in the dust!! Holy **** it runs like a bat ot of hell with a jet pack, it is almost ridiculus how fast it is. From a dead stop just put it on the floor and it spins the 37's no problem, no need to power brake. I swear it was only running on 2 cylinders before, at least that is how much of a differance it feels like.
 
and to think I have just been installing and beating the life out of them.
 
Lemme know when you figure out your belt squeal! The serp belt on my LB7 keeps squealing too. Drives me nuts, lol
 
well since I am 6'4" I like to make stuff tall friendly so I am putting a lift on the rear seat and moving it back about 6 inches to give better leg room. If you think the brackets are to big your right, but they are not meant to stay in the truck in the event I take the seat out, if that happens I will un bolt them. The plan is to weld the nuts to the backing plates and weld the backing plates to the underside of the floor so it will be very easy to take the bolts out or in and remove or replace the brackets.
I have to put the backing plates in anyway since the seat has integrated belts and needs to have the mounting points reinforced. I raised the front 1.5" and the rear 3" above the floor and I think this is a lot higher than they sit from the factory in the late model burbs since the mounting points are recesed. I am very happy with the seating angle, so here are all the pics from last night, still need to drill and paint all the brackets them put it in the burb and make and weld up backing plates.
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there are two brackets in the front and 3 in the back
 
Windshield and new side glass installed, rear seat installed, now need to start on middle row seats.

Seat belts work too.


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good job:waytogo:

gave them some growing room :pimp:
 
More seat fab, just came to me today how to do it so got after it...

Cut the stock sliders at the seat back

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Then angle iron across them

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So how does it bolt in and look?

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And finish welding

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Not gonna fall apart..Still gotta dril bolt holes and round off corners on the front legs then drill new holes in floor board then mount it up and do the same thing for drivers side. Plenty of room under the seats for amps and inverters or whatever else manages to get under there.
 
are those 99+ seats....I would like to do the same to my 76CC, but finding them is hard.
 
Yep got them out of an 02 burb. They are front seats but making them into middle row and will get two more front seats later, but like I said got to cut the floorboard down and make it flat. Doing ght front is gonna be a lot of fab work but in the end it is gonna be worth it and I bet one of the only ones like it.
 
I think you'll miss the fold down middle seats, but I could be wrong.

Martin
 
That was the whole point, dont have to fold down seats for rear access now and I never used it like a truck so did not need the inside room in that way. I did modify the seats so they will recline all the way back now, could never do that before.
 
Whats that in there

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All mounterd up, now take the 3rd row out and put in some sound proofing then carpet the back. Maybe next week.......
 
Are you ever around any John Deere tractor shops? I made a sub box console in my Blazer, and it was carpeted like yours. I covered the top with a piece of 40 series John Deere Sound Guard insulation. Much more comfortable to lean your arm on.

Martin
 
Actually it's not covered that is a 2.5" thick piece of foam, but I do need to cover it with some suede or something since it will be a while before I rebuild it. I got to put in the new front seats before I can glass up a real console.
 

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