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1992 454 swap into a 86. (now changed to a 496)

W

warwgn

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so found a 454 , it's out of a 92 Suburban and has the 4L80 and t-case still attached to it. Also has the tbi, a/c, alternator, p/s pump, pulleys all that jazz on it. The tranny has a GM reman sticker on it, he says it looks really new and thinks the 454 may have been rebuilt at the same time. I havent gone to look at it yet so just goin off what he said on the phone.

Anyway it is driver side drive shaft on the t-case, so I am wondering how do I fix that? can it be indexed or do I have to get an adapter for my NP208. I know I will need a controller for the tranny but not sure what to do on the t-case?

He is selling the whole set up for $1100.00 so I think it is worth it for sure, don't think I will keep the TBI but maybe, seems like it would be eaiser to change the intake and put a carb on it.

As for the engine I would think I can just throw a better cam in it and maybe a set of good after market heads and bingo I am in buisness with a new motor, OD trans, and all set up for under 5k easy!!

So any input would be awsome on the T-case stuff and what ever else I am missing!
 
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WOW.....so the stand alone controller seems to be in the $800 range!! Guess that takes the project to the 2K range right from the start, so throw another 1000 on top of that to swap a cam and a little head work, maybe 500 extra for new 4 core radiator and odds and ends. So maybe 4 grand to take my 86 burb to a 454 with over drive. It has 4.11 gears and will be getting 6" lift with 37's, think this should be a good combo right?

Would it be worth it? I mean the 4L80 and all, it should just idle down the highway with the above set up yet still pull the camper like a champ right?
 
think I am gonna buy it, called again and I am gonna go look at it after work so I will have pics to post later tonight.
 
sounds like you talked yourself into it....I don't know about the electronics controller for engine and trans. but I don't think that block has a mechanical fuel pump machined pad, so it would require an electric pump set-up.
If that engine has been rebuilt too, sounds like a good score.
 
yep would need to throw an electric pump on it, but only the tranny requires the computer. I can put a carb on the engine, and it is made for roller cam so that's a plus. It does come stock with a non adjustable valve train?? so not sure what that is about, but when I change cams out think it will need some head work to make it adjustable but nothing big I would think.

And yeah I think I have made up my mind that I am gonna get it, unless when I see it in about an hour it looks like hell and the oil smells like burnt abused no maintence crap. Either way still figure it's a good deal for a complete big block drive train.
 
well here it is, remember the free heads I picked up last week, well he took those in trade and knocked $200 off so all of what you see for $900!! I will pick it up either next weekend orthe one after that, got to wait till monday the 22nd to request my money from my 401K, then how ever long it takes to get in my bank.
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anybody know what this tag off the trans means?
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Don't ever take money out of your 401K....it'll cost you like 30% to get it, by the time you pay the 10% penalty, then taxes as income, and the future earnings you'll lose because of capital reduction.

Get a signature loan or a heloc if you can.
 
actually it is a loan from my 401k that I pay back to myself at 3.25% intrest. It is tax free too, have done this several times, take out a loan then pay it off with intrest to myself. So in reality I am borrowing money from myself and paying myself intrest to put a bigblock in my ride!!

I know, it's freaking awsome huh!!
 
Wow, seems like a good deal to me:bow: All of the stuff that would normally nickel & dime you is already there.
 
uh-oh...I see the snow ball forming right now....
 
76zimmer said:
uh-oh...I see the snow ball forming right now....
Click to expand...


:haha: yep I am busted!! just dont tell my wife.......this is saving me money in the long run ;) and that's the story I am stickin too!!
 
So doin some more figurin it seems to be getting a little more costly. with all this it's at $5034.10 to build the motor, I went high on some things and right on on athers and might be a little low on a couple but over all I think I should be very close as a worst case unless I am just missing something high dollar.

coreblock $850.00
rebuild kit $600.00
cam/lifters/valve springs/ $1,000.00
carb $450.00
fuel pump $79.95
rocker arms $139.25
fuel press regulator $69.95
pushrods $50.00
intake $199.95
plug wires $100.00
goops and gunks $100.00
water pump $50.00
belt $50.00
thermostat / water neck $25.00
radiator $300.00



machine work on block
vat $100.00
cam bearing install $50.00
oil / freeze plugs $50.00
press pistons $60.00
valve job $300.00
head work $100.00
bore block $150.00
rod recondition $100.00
engine stand $60.00


seems like a lot of cash, but I think it will be less, especially the machine work, I am starting to think I may not need to bore it at all just a good hone I hope. I might even be able to re use the pistons!
 
that's what I was hoping for too, just a bearing and ring rebuild....but the taper on a 454 is tight at .002, and out of round tight too. (GM service manual 1985) I had a gouge deep enough to require a .030 bore job, and the crank had questionable bearings in it, and had oiling issues before. I decided to do this right the first time out, and not have to look back. I'm at about 5G's right now with mine, and everything but head castings, block, crank, and rods have been replaced. Also my machinist didn't like the bargain kits that most sell. Too inconsistent with tolerances....Therefore we spent about 1400 on parts instead of the 699.00 for a bargain set, but got SRP forged pistons that are light, and didn't require the extra labor for balancing that a heavier set does. (the pistons were $549)
All in all, I've gone bargain before and have mostly been dis-appointed with the outcome. I have Comp Cams parts in the valvetrain. See my thread for what I've done to give you a better idea of what it needed, and what we decided to use.

Are you using a roller cam, and valve train?
 
yes, since it is a gen 5 block I am gonna go roller for sure. The machine shop say I could buy lifters from GM but it is about a wash to get a whole kit from Comp Cams since I have to convert the head to adjustabe anyway.

Also bout decided I may just use the stock pistons if possible or only go bout 9:1, I keep forgetting what I am building it for and got to keep the goal in mind, a mild TOW rig not a hot rod.
 
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getting closer to having all my parts.

So I might go pick up my 454 today!! Gotta see how it works out if I can get the trailer or not or might just throw it in the back of the burban. ANyway I ordered some extra parts should be here by Friday:
Electric Fuel Pump
Fuel pressure Regulator
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Jet Performance Q-Jet 800 CFM (After talking to Jet, they said this is the one I need for the set up I am gonna run. the down side it wont be here for about 2 weeks)
New Intake bolts
wont be long and the Burban will be beastly!!
 
it was a close call for sure, but after I found the smokin deal on the builder engine I had to go the way I did.
 
FYI there is NO machine work required to make the valvetrain adjustable. You just need to buy Comp Cams #4514 (Big Block Chevy Gen V and VI adjustable rocker kit). I've used this kit on Gregs 502 when i went through it and swapped in a different roller cam.
 
yep that is what the $100 in head work really is just putting the conversion kit in it's actually $103.95 in summit so only $3.95 off on estimate. CCA-4514-KIT , thanks though just in case I didnt know.
 
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