yes i do but lots of time as i have no life and or wife and or girlfriend and last no kid's .
CK5
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2 wheel peel / rebirth of a short bed c-10
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
yes i do but lots of time as i have no life and or wife and or girlfriend and last no kid's .
yes i do but lots of time as i have no life and or wife and or girlfriend and last no kid's .
But you have nice trucks
I'm usually not a fan of 2wd trucks, but I like this one so far.
Martin
Martin
I like your idea for the rear end drop. Good thinking.
thanks .
you can buy drop / raised brackets but thay are 150 and up. also little thinner in thickness over stock.
and most places sell it as a kit with drop shackles that i dont need .
thinking stupid simple and cheep on this one for most things and best bolt on for others.
you can buy drop / raised brackets but thay are 150 and up. also little thinner in thickness over stock.
and most places sell it as a kit with drop shackles that i dont need .
thinking stupid simple and cheep on this one for most things and best bolt on for others.
BIG THANKS to SPICER 
he hooked me up on the upper a-arm's and all sway bar parts for the front end.
mine were mia on the sway bar stuff and upper a-arm's severy rust.
going to clean thm up in the bast box this weekend at work and get the frame and parts ready for primer and paint for early in week paint job.
got to get this thing back as a roller and finished up so i can enjoy something for once and not just dream about it.
he hooked me up on the upper a-arm's and all sway bar parts for the front end.
mine were mia on the sway bar stuff and upper a-arm's severy rust.
going to clean thm up in the bast box this weekend at work and get the frame and parts ready for primer and paint for early in week paint job.
got to get this thing back as a roller and finished up so i can enjoy something for once and not just dream about it.
doing some reserch online today at parts stores on brakes.
since i am skipping the vac brakes as i found the 91 1/2 ton hydro boost from that local part out burban i figured i would skip the 20+ year old rusted up dry master with bad seals more than likly.
i didnt wana run the old cst iron master tho as it looks ugly and tend to leak from the cap/gasket area a lot.
so i figured the 88-up trucks got all aluminum/plastic resivor body masters . i looked at a 94 c1500 wd with 6.5 turbo motor as it would also have hydro boost . turns out it looks like it should work and line/nut thread size is the same so no major rework of lines will be needed.
also the 85 stock master is 1.125 bore / the 94 c1500 6.5td master is 1.25 bore . this should help with better pedal and biggest option stock brakes I am going to run .
now i am going to find a hydro boost pump or just resivor and swap it on the p/s pump for the 2nd return line to the tank. unless i can get a nipple welded or brazed on the stock resivor.
since all my other trucks are hydro boost i wanted this one to be also. i love the pedal a lot better than vac.
since i am skipping the vac brakes as i found the 91 1/2 ton hydro boost from that local part out burban i figured i would skip the 20+ year old rusted up dry master with bad seals more than likly.
i didnt wana run the old cst iron master tho as it looks ugly and tend to leak from the cap/gasket area a lot.
so i figured the 88-up trucks got all aluminum/plastic resivor body masters . i looked at a 94 c1500 wd with 6.5 turbo motor as it would also have hydro boost . turns out it looks like it should work and line/nut thread size is the same so no major rework of lines will be needed.
also the 85 stock master is 1.125 bore / the 94 c1500 6.5td master is 1.25 bore . this should help with better pedal and biggest option stock brakes I am going to run .
now i am going to find a hydro boost pump or just resivor and swap it on the p/s pump for the 2nd return line to the tank. unless i can get a nipple welded or brazed on the stock resivor.
since all my other trucks are hydro boost i wanted this one to be also. i love the pedal a lot better than vac.
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I'm curious about the hydro boost setup I'm contemplating on wither to do it or not but not sure on a lsx swap.
just get the hydroboost stuff and bolt it on. dont forget the pedel and bracket under dash is diffrent.
otherwise no diffrent than old school sbc or bbc hydrobost.
thay do offer the 3 hose pump resivors for the ls series in 2500 and up trucks. i also here some 1500 stuff has it also.
otherwise no diffrent than old school sbc or bbc hydrobost.
thay do offer the 3 hose pump resivors for the ls series in 2500 and up trucks. i also here some 1500 stuff has it also.
Guess I should have thought about it first, I do have a bran new pump sitting in the garage for vac brakes though. I might give it a shot and if it's not enough I'll do the conversion.
reason i am doing it is 2 fold.
got the parts minus correct pump for ls yet for 50 bucks.
and i like hydroboost over vac my self.
so since all apart why not.
you do not need hydro bost for ls motors. there is a vac port back of intake.
got the parts minus correct pump for ls yet for 50 bucks.
and i like hydroboost over vac my self.
so since all apart why not.
you do not need hydro bost for ls motors. there is a vac port back of intake.
well not much since the work load was heavy this week . had to full assemble a 79 mg midget at work from a full strip down and paint job.
i did get the rest of the front end parts blasted. got to tape off the spots we dont want paint on/in then paint them . at that point should have lots of pic's from assembley .
then last week i ordered some diy4x usdr 5" shackles for the rear for a little more drop but not as much as my bolt in universal 7" gave me. got them in the mail friday and as normal diy4x good stuff. and fyi kirt you can sell them as tunning fork's since when i hit one it ring's just like a music tunning fork.
then today i hit up the local ford truck guy and scored a mid late 70's ford 9" for the rear end for about 150 bucks and he will even drop it off for me.
ya ford 9" but later on if i wana play with it its a lot better and faster to setup over gm 10 or 12 bolt. plus 3.50 gears over my current smoked 2.73 gear rear 10 bolt. it was money in weaker axle or money in better starting axle.
just got to strip the axles out and get them to my buddy to redo the bolt pattern to 5x5gm over the 5x5.5 ford. easy mod to do .
also going to use ruffstuff axle perches with fathers day disc offer to redo the pattern to fit gm.
i did get the rest of the front end parts blasted. got to tape off the spots we dont want paint on/in then paint them . at that point should have lots of pic's from assembley .
then last week i ordered some diy4x usdr 5" shackles for the rear for a little more drop but not as much as my bolt in universal 7" gave me. got them in the mail friday and as normal
diy4x good stuff. and fyi kirt you can sell them as tunning fork's since when i hit one it ring's just like a music tunning fork. then today i hit up the local ford truck guy and scored a mid late 70's ford 9" for the rear end for about 150 bucks and he will even drop it off for me.
ya ford 9" but later on if i wana play with it its a lot better and faster to setup over gm 10 or 12 bolt. plus 3.50 gears over my current smoked 2.73 gear rear 10 bolt. it was money in weaker axle or money in better starting axle.
just got to strip the axles out and get them to my buddy to redo the bolt pattern to 5x5gm over the 5x5.5 ford. easy mod to do .
also going to use ruffstuff axle perches with fathers day disc offer to redo the pattern to fit gm.
got a bit done today .
test fitted the new brakes on the new spindles . found i had the wrong inner bearingreason for test fit was truck had baby brakes on front as it was a little 4.3 v6 factory truck .
i then updated to 2.5" drop spindles and it required the bigger rotors and i didnt recheck my info and also needed the bigger inner bearing also to match the rotors.
so all parts minus frame is ready for primer and paint.
then it will be a huge assemble time for a rolling frame again. and on to primer and paint on body .
did score a sweet idea for better lookin engine cover. 2008 trailblazer v8 cover. need back bracket also if you wana do it over stock truck one. did a bit more test fitting. TB SS cover and plate fit diffrent as the TT SS intake is made diffrent. but tiny bit of work to modify the back mount plate and it would work super .
badge in center back has GM performance division on it.
test fitted the new brakes on the new spindles . found i had the wrong inner bearing
reason for test fit was truck had baby brakes on front as it was a little 4.3 v6 factory truck . i then updated to 2.5" drop spindles and it required the bigger rotors and i didnt recheck my info and also needed the bigger inner bearing also to match the rotors.
so all parts minus frame is ready for primer and paint.
then it will be a huge assemble time for a rolling frame again. and on to primer and paint on body .
did score a sweet idea for better lookin engine cover. 2008 trailblazer v8 cover. need back bracket also if you wana do it over stock truck one. did a bit more test fitting. TB SS cover and plate fit diffrent as the TT SS intake is made diffrent. but tiny bit of work to modify the back mount plate and it would work super .
badge in center back has GM performance division on it.
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Thats gonna look sick
dug in to the ford 9" truck axle yesterday and found some good and bad.
good is its large bearing 31 spline and real clean on inside for 40 some year old setup.
also the ford 9" empty housing is REAL light weight compared to a gm 10 bolt wow
bad is needs all brake parts . but found that newer ford 8.8 explorer disk brake rear stuff swaps on real easy and gets disk brakes.
then big bad was 2.7x gear loaded on the 3rd member.
but i called him back and he said he has a few more axles and will pull a 3rd member and verify the 3.50 gear i was told i was going to get and swap me for the wrong 3rd meber . 
also got my ruff stuff axle perches . just hair under 1.5" longer per end over stock and a LOT beefyer also .
the more i dig in to this 9" axle the more i like this setup .
good is its large bearing 31 spline and real clean on inside for 40 some year old setup.
also the ford 9" empty housing is REAL light weight compared to a gm 10 bolt wow
bad is needs all brake parts . but found that newer ford 8.8 explorer disk brake rear stuff swaps on real easy and gets disk brakes.
then big bad was 2.7x gear loaded on the 3rd member.
but i called him back and he said he has a few more axles and will pull a 3rd member and verify the 3.50 gear i was told i was going to get and swap me for the wrong 3rd meber . also got my ruff stuff axle perches . just hair under 1.5" longer per end over stock and a LOT beefyer also .
the more i dig in to this 9" axle the more i like this setup .
got the front end pairts hanging in the small paint booth and ready to use the SEM rust shield black on them.
then buddy at work painted them 2 nice thick coats for me.
come out real nice and new lookin over old rusty stuff.
letting dry around 24 hr's and then pull paint tape off area's i had covered . then this weekend hope to install all the energy suspension bushings and all 4 new prem moog ball joints. also i got new rotors / reman calipers / new wheel bearings and seals . this get's the arm's loaded and ready to go when frame is painted begining of next week when we get finished with few big jobs in the booth.
come out real nice and new lookin over old rusty stuff.
letting dry around 24 hr's and then pull paint tape off area's i had covered . then this weekend hope to install all the energy suspension bushings and all 4 new prem moog ball joints. also i got new rotors / reman calipers / new wheel bearings and seals . this get's the arm's loaded and ready to go when frame is painted begining of next week when we get finished with few big jobs in the booth.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Those Ford 9" axles really are a smart design. I'm not sure why they faded away in favor of the Dana type axles. It's just so much easier to just take the third member out and set it up your bench and then bolt it back into the housing from the front. And correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the shims go on the outside of the bearings so that you don't have to pull/destroy the bearings just to add or remove shims? Or do you even need shims to get the pattern right? 
Plus isn't the 9" a full floating rear axle? Toyota axles are very similar.
Plus isn't the 9" a full floating rear axle? Toyota axles are very similar.
the 9" is not a full floating axle, it's still a semi floating axle.Those Ford 9" axles really are a smart design. I'm not sure why they faded away in favor of the Dana type axles. It's just so much easier to just take the third member out and set it up your bench and then bolt it back into the housing from the front. And correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the shims go on the outside of the bearings so that you don't have to pull/destroy the bearings just to add or remove shims? Or do you even need shims to get the pattern right?
It's just a better pinion support system, hence the strength.
The Toyota axles have the same general idea with a drop out third, and that is why they are strong for their size.
