2 wheel peel / rebirth of a short bed c-10

[sweetk30]

yep semi floater rear. but pressed on the axle bearing and NO c-clip in the diff. this is over the reg semi floater rears that bearing is pressed in the axle housing and axle slides in and held with c-clips and if it breaks whole axle slides out of tube.

the ford 8" and 9" have the 3rd bearing support on the pinion like a 14 ff rear in our trucks. then the pinion unbolts and has a shim between the 3rd member to adjust pinion depth.

and also the carrier bearing preload and backlash adjustment is just like our 14ff rear with threaded collers.

the smaller bearing car rears had a reg semi float roller bearing on the axle. but the trucks got the big tappered roller bearing on them .

i went with it for 1 simple reason my current 10 bolt was shot bad breaks / ring & pinion toast and bearings junk . plus 2.73 gears in it.

ford 9" redo and cost was within budget and cost effective for mod's later down the road.

 

[sweetk30]

this evening i spent 3hr's and some energy and got the front a-arm's loaded except for the lower ball joints and also got the 2.5" drop knuckles assembled with dust shields. thay are ready for bolt on and load with new rotors and bearings and seals.

cross shafts got copper anti seize on the bushing tube area's so they have less a chance to seize on there. then brand new moog ball joints.

 

[sweetk30]

then brand new bump stops and check out of how nice the a-arm's piviot on the bushings like butter. should make a smooooth ride.

then lowers and drop spindles ready to go.

and empty 9" truck housing got to cut off the perches and shock mounts to make room for new from ruff stuff.

and the ford perch width is basicly 2" or so wider if anyone wanted to know.

beginning of week we should have booth empty and then paint frame so massive assemble can begine.

 

[76zimmer]

liking the work Brett...I'm anxious to start on my CC, but too much other stuff going on. I'll be watching this build!

 

[imiceman44]

Yeah, if you noticed I didn't mention the C clip.
But, since you have the axle and have it disassembled double check the pinion bearings, as far as I know, they are 2, but one on each end of the gears instead of on the same side of the gear, which makes it not deflect under power.
I think the 14bff is the only pinion that has three bearings.

yep semi floater rear. but pressed on the axle bearing and NO c-clip in the diff. this is over the reg semi floater rears that bearing is pressed in the axle housing and axle slides in and held with c-clips and if it breaks whole axle slides out of tube.

the ford 8" and 9" have the 3rd bearing support on the pinion like a 14 ff rear in our trucks. then the pinion unbolts and has a shim between the 3rd member to adjust pinion depth.

and also the carrier bearing preload and backlash adjustment is just like our 14ff rear with threaded collers.

the smaller bearing car rears had a reg semi float roller bearing on the axle. but the trucks got the big tappered roller bearing on them .

i went with it for 1 simple reason my current 10 bolt was shot bad breaks / ring & pinion toast and bearings junk . plus 2.73 gears in it.

ford 9" redo and cost was within budget and cost effective for mod's later down the road.

 

[sweetk30]

got the frame painted today with brush and lots of elbo grease.

come out good for what it is and what i wanted.

will let it dry for day and then try and bolt the front end suspension stuff back on sunday and then remove the leaf spring bushings and get them swaped for the energy suspension stuff.

also basicly ready to start droping parts on it now and get my a$$ moving on this again .

 

[sweetk30]

said screw it nothin on tv tonight so i went back and the paint was basicly dry to work with already .

got the rear suspension basicly done by mounting the hangers in there new 2" up location i did in previus posting . this got me 2" drop in the rear. used grd 8 bolts / washers / and crimp nuts . the bolt had a little bit of smoth shanke on them to fill in the holes and not let the hangers move around . if you run a bolt with no smooth shanke then the threads over time will flatten out and let the part walk around.

also got the DIY4X 5" usdr shackles in the rear . 1" longer over stock to get 1/2" more drop for total of 2.5" drop in rear.

and got to strap the frame to the lift once front end or rear end is on and not the other the frame will tilt right off the lift like a see ... / ... saw .

 

[sweetk30]

then back to the front end and got everything on minus the coil springs and lower ball joints. small problem wrong size for pressing them in to the a-arm's . little bit to small. no snug fit. got to find right ones.

and thats the 2.5" drop spindles on the front end for the rest of the lowering parts. spindles are a bit more but best option in my book .

then got the motor mount brackets and mounts bolted back in place. as posted before all energy suspension bushings and mounts for motor / tranny / body .

even got the shock studs bolted in the frame also . every little part on makes the pile smaller and closer to going down the road.

 

[Babaganoosh]

It's coming along good, I can't wait to do the same to mine. Viewing your thread and techs is feeding me with motivation. do you have any info on these smooth shank bolts?

 

[shady]

subcribed

 

[y5mgisi]

What was that axle out of? I like the idea of a 5lug 3" wider axle.

 

[sweetk30]

do you have any info on these smooth shank bolts?

just got to go to local hardware store and find the grd 8 and a longer length that gets you the smooth shank at the head of the bolt is all.

otherwise nothin special . you just get a bit extra threads is all out the back.

 

[Babaganoosh]

O ok got you, wasn't sure if you special ordered them or they were common enough at a hardware store. I think I need to venture out of ace for hardware.

Brain fart. I over thought what you really used. Now I sound like a moron.

 

[sweetk30]

What was that axle out of? I like the idea of a 5lug 3" wider axle.

dont know for sure if much wider yet but will take mesurments when done with it.

and to answer ? http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3123390&postcount=95

bit its the big 5 x 5.5 lug pattern. over our 5x5 pattern. i will run bolt on adaptor / spacers or just redrill and change pattern. not sure yet.

 

[sweetk30]

I think I need to venture out of ace for hardware.

try and fine a local mom/pop hardware specialty place like i got. thay sell me hardware at box unit price 3x cheeper than reg around the corner hardware store.

 

[sweetk30]

just did some digging around on lower ball joints.

ran the year/make/model/engine stuff again and found 260-1118 part # for lower ball joints.

then compared to my box's i got that had wrong size ball joints in them found 260-1188 part # this comes back to a ford crown vic body style lower ball joint. thay do fit in the nuckle and tapper is basicly the same or super close . but NOT in the lower A-arm's of the chevy truck .

got to wait till monday to go to store and get them swaped out for correct stuff. shows thay have them on the shelf tho thats a good thing. and not going anywere fast as hardly any of these trucks around here in the rust belt.

 

[andyblack]

If you have a Tractor Supply Company store in your area, they are the best place to get grade 8 hardware. They're way cheaper than most.

 

[smier]

Great build, makes me wish that I still had my '86 C10 LWB. It was a great riding truck, and I bet that LS swap will make it a great daily driver!

 

[andyblack]

My dad had an '84 long bed. Best riding and driving truck I've ever driven. They just don't make 'em like that anymore. Had a lot of body roll though. His had a 305/TH700R4 and something like 2.73 axle gears. He was getting 19 and 20 mpg back in the old days. It was slow, but it was a great truck.

 

[sweetk30]

got the new rotors and bearings all greased up and new wheel seals installed and put them on the front end today .

then i used my ball joint press / master adaptor set to go with it and a air hammer to get the old rubber bushings out of the rear leafs.

all the rust got removed from the inside of the spring eye with air grinder and course bit . ready for grease and new energy suspension bushing kit to be installed in them. that will be after i take the packs off the 10 bolt and clean them up and paint them and hang them in the frame for the 9" to be set up in there.

whats left .