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$200 K5 (454 K5 now) *too much junk in the trunk

I wouldn’t say that at all. All of mine want 10/30 or thicker
I didn't specify a thickness, what I said still is physically true.
I put 20w50 in all my older chevy engines up to 95, 15w40 for up to 2000, and 10w40 for the newer ones up to 2006.
I don't have any newer so I don't worry about it

It's a balance between protection, function and resistance and I feel those numbers worked for me
 
I didn't specify a thickness, what I said still is physically true.
I put 20w50 in all my older chevy engines up to 95, 15w40 for up to 2000, and 10w40 for the newer ones up to 2006.
I don't have any newer so I don't worry about it

It's a balance between protection, function and resistance and I feel those numbers worked for me
This rounds out more into what I’ve been seeing, with 10w40 being better in that era
I never run less than 10w30 in anything anymore due to noise


I’ve also noticed a lot of LS/LT engines have a tick. Between oil viscosity and what appears to be a fairly soft lifter I’d think.

I don’t run synthetic either
 
Went out to the mountains today. About 80 miles. Engine ran well. Long fuel trim was a bit out of spec. I am sure the ProFlow is re-learning now that the #1 cylinder is firing right again.
Cool out and about pic! You may want to start over on the tune after that find, it might be quicker.

Well, it's not an oil viscosity problem. Broken rocker.

Glad you found the problem. Might want to double check the other rockers. Exhaust rocker or intake rocker?

My go to additive would be MOA by BG. You have to find where it's sold. Around here a lot of times it's Napa.

I was doing some searching about oil weights and higher lift cams. 10w40 seemed to be a popular choice. I hate going to 15w around here because of the cold winters.

If you want to keep the oil in it now, I'd try adding a can of MOA. If I were changing the oil in that engine I'd switch to Amsoil Z-rod 10w40 or their premium protection 10w40: https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-premium-protection-10w-40-100-synthetic-motor-oil-amo/

BG was started by a friend of the family, he still owns it, he's also building a sweet TBS blown small block Chevy for a nice 70 AMX with Holley EFI, he's a good guy.

Edit: I was wrong, he started a company that is a distributor for BG, not BG itself. My mistake. Still a good guy.
 
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It was intake #1. When I checked the others they, best I can tell anyway, they were a turn past no slack. Bent77 said he usually ends up about 1/2 to 3/4 turn past which is where I set the new rocker and others. No noise and smooth running now.
ProFlo4 was definitely working on the tune. It was surging at idle after the work. Not bad but you could tell it needed to fix itself.
 
Ah, so it may have been pooling fuel on that intake valve, but with no fuel or fresh air it was not compressing much and no bang.

I was just saying, the base tune was probably closer than the tune it learned when it was running on 7. But if it's now fixed no worries, it may still have some driving scenarios where it still has the wrong data in there though.
 
My exhaust guy got a little close on the oil filter. It clears but it almost wont come off for a change. Made a huge mess trying to wiggle it out. Dont really want to cut and weld the pipe if I can avoid it. Fram PH5 was on it. WIX 51060 has same spec on height, 13/16-16 thread, 3.78 diameter and 5.16 tall. Anyone have a part number for one a 1/2" shorter? The cross reference charts keep giving me the same height, I know there are shorter ones that work.
AC Delco PF1218 same spec.

Mabey BOSCH 72235WS at 4.25 tall.
Nope. Bosch 72235WS same height as a Fram PH5 despite finding a spec that said shorter. Can't find the Carquest 84099.
 
I have put around 400 miles on after the rocker arm replacement. The ProFlo4 will adjust itself but it isn't quick. I was seeing a warning for long fuel trim out of spec pretty often. It has slowly gone mostly away when watching the digital display. Several hundred miles and lots of key cycles but it will keep adjusting if you leave it alone.

I had thought about resetting the tune and starting over but I thought it would be interesting to see what it will do over time. I have done exactly nothing manually with the tuning since the initial setup and break in. Runs great.
 
My front brakes have been noisy and squeaky going down the road. Took the calipers off and the caliper support springs were flat. I could bend them by hand. These were new calipers from Oreilly's with 1000 miles on them. Caliper is fine but hardware is junk. Ordered some new ones from Raybestos, hopefully that fixes the issue.
 
those springs come with rebuilt calipers ? Getting knock noise ? Squeal will be pad vibration, or materials.
 
Yes, the rebuilt calipers came with springs, the clip that slides on and the bolt that holds the clip. All new. It's a squeak like a bad bearing but it's not there with the caliper off. Without the spring the caliper is pretty loose. Pads are new and look fine. Sound stops when you step on the brakes.
 

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