CK5
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2000 GMC K2500 Sierra Crew Cab Stepside

Also, has anyone know if the air dams under the front bumpers help fuel mileage much? This thing gets 10-12 and I'm wondering if it could help bring up the highway mileage to have one on it?
I had one on my Yukon for 3 months after I bought it, then took it off and noticed no change whatsoever in fuel economy or overheating or anything. The air dam is supposed to increase air pressure in front of the grille to direct air into that. In theory, like AJ said.
 
I was just thinking, have you done any kind of tune up? Block off egr valve, replace O2 sensors (make sure they're ac delco) clean maf sensor and throttle body and new plugs, wires and dizzy. Also I like to run seafoam through everything. That should help your economy some.
 
I'm going to do plugs, wires, cap and rotor this weekend. I was sitting at the gas station waiting on the girls to come out and watching the missfire counter for cyl3 going up and down. So I called advance auto and they have the Delco tuneup stuff in stock for it.
 
Honestly if you get 13 with that thing driving around you're doing pretty good.
 
Had a custom tune done on my 97, had all your basic bolt ons on it before the tune. Averaged 16mpg on the highway before, after tune 18-19 mpg. Seemed to drive overall Better and have a lil more jam.

Mine was done by Westers.

I've heard nothing but good about Wheatley and blackbear tunes as well.
I wouldn't hesitate to have a tune done ony next truck in the future.
 
I've got to order the tune up stuff for it this week. I had to help Dad work on their house this weekend so I didn't get to do anything to the truck.

Has anyone ever put an Accel supper coil on one of these and had trouble? I can get the hotter Accel coil cheaper than the Delco one so I thought I'd go that way. I know on my Camaro it made a noticeable difference in the exhaust note through open headers when we went from a factory coil to the Accel supper coil on it. I thought a little extra fire would help this old engine out a bit.
 
After that was taken, I found the coil wire had been arcing to the transmission dipstick tube. It had burnt a pretty good spot in the tube. Needless to say, the old truck runs a lot better now. The Accel hot coil should be here next week. I'm going to drive it like this a while and see how much mileage improves. After that, I'll swap on the coil and see if it makes any difference in it. I wish there was a chassis dyno close by where I could measure improvements as I went.

Next I'm planning on doing a 7.4l throttle body swap and cleaning the MAF sensor good.
 
Sweet project!

Thanks!

In related news, AAAAARRRGGGHHHHH! I've been browsing some threads about performance for the Vortec engines and my list of wants keeps growing larger. It's really getting out of hand now me thinks....
 
Just got the bed loaded on the trailer. I'm going to take it down next weekend when we are down there getting married. Hopefully he isn't doing anything the next week and the bed will be ready to go by the time we get back from the honeymoon. :waytogo: If not, I've waited most of the year, a little longer won't kill me.

I need to get a new fuel pump for it too. It's had the death moan as long as I've had the truck and the fuel sender transmits nonsense. :woot:
 
Called the body shop today and I'm supposed to drop it off Friday and he said he would get to it next week! :waytogo: :woot: :waytogo:
 
The trailer wiring connector on the truck has been a eye sore since I've owned it. It was loose, rusty, and the terminals inside were loose and would pull out with the trailer connector.

I was at K-Mart a few days ago and they had their trailer wiring components marked WAY down. I happened to find the nice Hoppy 7-pin connector in the stack so I grabbed it up.

After breakfast this morning I decided that since I was going to be pulling a trailer in the next couple days, I would go ahead and stick it on.

First things first, I pulled the fuse on the Aux power line. No reason to have sparks flying if we don't have to.

Next, I took off the old connector:





Next, I took a hole saw and knocked a hole in the bumper just below the impact strip.



Next, I lined the bracket that came with the connector up with the hole in the bumper and center punched where the attachment holes should go.



After drilling the holes, I held the connector in place and marked the impact strip with a pencil where it needed cut out to put the connector in. Using a razor knife, I cut the notch out of the impact strip.



I then pulled the wiring through the hole and started looking at them. It turns out, instead of dropping the factory trailer wiring harness out of the frame rail and using it, they split the tail light harness and spliced in a four-flat wire. :doah: After dealing with that, I pulled the factory trailer harness though the hole and made all my attachments.



Pages 4-61 and 4-62 in the manual if you are following along. :waytogo:





After getting it wired up and all the wires back in loom, I pushed the connector in place and used #12 self tapping screws to hold the connector in the bumper.



Then it was a simple matter of taping up the loom under the truck and zip-tieing the excess wiring up where it won't hang down and get caught on anything.
 
Good work. I hate having those hang down, just can't justify modifying the bumper on my rig.

Looks good!
 
I never liked the idea until the third time of putting connector on my 93 Silverado. Then that was the last straw and the hole saw came out. I've also done this on our Suburban a couple years ago when we bought it.
 
I did something similar with my Yukon, but instead I put the plug in one of the license plate light holes.
 
I did something similar with my Yukon, but instead I put the plug in one of the license plate light holes.

Exactly what i did on my friend's tacoma.

I like this approach too, especially in cases that appearance is important.
 

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