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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…

The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
If I were you, I'd run the newer rims. I think they will look fine.

If I were me, I'd ignore the aesthetics and run whatever rims had better rubber on them. But that practical philosophy has gotten me in trouble with multiple CK5 members. :rolleyes:

So run the newer rims. You'd hate for your internet friends to disapprove of your styling choices. :haha:
Three things
1. He has good rubber either way.
2. If your not worried about aesthetics, then why did big blue get painted??
3. Got to style in National Parks.

Edit: the reasons you catch hell for your wheels is that it's hard for us to understand how you don't care when we all pour our heart and souls into these things.
 
Well, I have both wheels and tires at my disposal to try either one and see what I like. I guess I will spend a Saturday and see what that looks like.

As for grille and headlights. I get an insane employee discount on new aftermarket parts, so I'm not worried about price for running the composite lights. Total, including grille, my new front end would cost me about $150 for all the parts for the composite front end.
 
Well, I have both wheels and tires at my disposal to try either one and see what I like. I guess I will spend a Saturday and see what that looks like.

As for grille and headlights. I get an insane employee discount on new aftermarket parts, so I'm not worried about price for running the composite lights. Total, including grille, my new front end would cost me about $150 for all the parts for the composite front end.
Yeah but then an your stuck wit the ugly factory lights that like to yellow and fog over.
But for $150 I think that's a good plan. Hey how much can you get the grill she'll for? Mine is hammered. I need to replace it
 
Our aftermarket lights have a lifetime warranty against fading and fogging. So they should look nice for a long time.

You are talking about the chrome grille correct?
 
Yeah but then an your stuck wit the ugly factory lights that like to yellow and fog over.
But for $150 I think that's a good plan. Hey how much can you get the grill she'll for? Mine is hammered. I need to replace it

I would avoid the yellowing-plastic if there are better options. But that's just me.
 
Did you see my post where we have a lifetime warranty against fading and fogging? :deal:

Aftermarket lights to have a bad rap, due to cheapass companies popping out the cheapest stuff possible to make a quick buck.
 
Did you see my post where we have a lifetime warranty against fading and fogging? :deal:

Aftermarket lights to have a bad rap, due to cheapass companies popping out the cheapest stuff possible to make a quick buck.

No, we posted at about the same time. Sounds like you'll be fine.
 
Three things
1. He has good rubber either way.
2. If your not worried about aesthetics, then why did big blue get painted??
3. Got to style in National Parks.

Edit: the reasons you catch hell for your wheels is that it's hard for us to understand how you don't care when we all pour our heart and souls into these things.


Ouch. I'm gonna hafta think about that (and I'm still thinking about last week's comments). I did pour a lot of heart and soul into that truck. For a couple of years, even. The reason that the build stopped was because I felt I had hit the limitations of the platform. I wanted more interior space, and the K10 wasn't filling the need. That's why it doesn't get driven much, and that's why it never got the wheels all pretty.

Then (3 years ago) I moved 400 miles away from borrowable tools, and cool projects went on indefinite hold. I'm just now getting a rudimentary shop set up, and I've just barely gotten started on the other truck projects. I feel like great projects are ahead (which is why I spend so much time reading through these threads), but the waiting game isn't quite over for me. I still need to get a few more things done before serious building can resume.
 
So I guess my more serious answer for "other Greg" is that you should run the neater-looking rims (and I think those would be the newer ones).

But if you have both sets of rims, why not swap 2 of them (on the same side, of course) and post a picture of what it looks like? The more I think about it the more I wish I could visualize it. :thinking:
 
That's my problem. Having trouble visualizing it. Guess I will have to wait a couple months to get it done, and get the wheels on.

As for passion for the hobby, I see you full of it.
 
Our aftermarket lights have a lifetime warranty against fading and fogging. So they should look nice for a long time.

You are talking about the chrome grille correct?

Ah that works. And yes chrome.

Did you see my post where we have a lifetime warranty against fading and fogging? :deal:

Aftermarket lights to have a bad rap, due to cheapass companies popping out the cheapest stuff possible to make a quick buck.
That's also not untrue. The set I put on my dodge a few years back definilty weren't sealed well and had some condensation/fogging after a year or so.
 
That's my problem. Having trouble visualizing it. Guess I will have to wait a couple months to get it done, and get the wheels on.

You're making us wait? :eek1: Oh, I guess that makes two of us. :haha:

The good news (for you) is that it's easy to swap wheels down the road if you change your mind. This is bad news for me, as each of my rigs has multiple wheel options and I can never decide what I wanna run. :doah:


As for passion for the hobby, I see you full of it.

Thanks. I miss having access to a shop. Glad to be finally doing something about it. Hopefully 2016 will see more neat ideas than the last few years have. :)
 
Since this is planned as an expo rig it will end up heavy as matter of function. Anything that will bring the weight down without sacrificing reliability is a win. The GM aluminum wheels seem to fit that bill.
 
So bare with me on this next part, as I am not a fart smeller.

I have been having an issue with the torque converter not locking up once my truck reaches overdrive. Took it to a tranny shop to have him drive it and tell me what's going on. He said everything is working just fine, until I reach overdrive. He said while driving the truck, the scanner kept throwing a code saying "brake switch voltage high", which in turn will prevent the TC from locking up.

So a little more back story....

A few months after I bought this truck, the brake switch stopped working and I lost brake lights. I replaced it, and went on my way. About a month ago I started having brake light issues again. Intermittent lights working. Then completely stopped working all together. Replaced the brake switch last Sunday, and we are good to go. No more brake light issue.

So now knowing what I do, these problems are all related. I am having high voltage issues with the brake switch, which is causing early failure to the switch itself as well as causing TC lockup issues.

Any input, or suggestion on where to start with this? The trans shop suggested tracing some wires to see if I had any broken, or frayed wires.
 
Also, if someone wants to move this to the garage feel free to do so.

Unlike my other threads, this one has a bit of tech that may be helpful to others.
 

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