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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…

The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
If it were a 6.0 power stroke, it would crack the EGR and dump coolant in the intake.
 
lol, you guys are turds.

I replaced the PMD yesterday, I did notice a change with the truck. It seems to run smoother all around, but I still have the starting issue.

A buddy said something about a fuel shutoff solenoid maybe sticking? Is that even possible?
 
lol, you guys are turds.

I replaced the PMD yesterday, I did notice a change with the truck. It seems to run smoother all around, but I still have the starting issue.

A buddy said something about a fuel shutoff solenoid maybe sticking? Is that even possible?

Remember me asking how it was possible for a PMD to cause white smoke on startup? I'm still waiting for an answer... :whistle:

If the fuel solenoid is sticking on, the truck won't turn off. If it's sticking off, it won't start firing. I don't think there are any other options, it's a binary thing and it's the only form of ignition control that a mechanical diesel has. Yours isn't strictly mechanical, but AFAIK they use the same style of shut off and the PMD is just an electric signal amplifier controlling the length of fuel pulse.

White smoke + coolant mysteriously disappearing still points to water contamination of the cylinder, any way you slice it.
 
Remember me asking how it was possible for a PMD to cause white smoke on startup? I'm still waiting for an answer... :whistle:

If the fuel solenoid is sticking on, the truck won't turn off. If it's sticking off, it won't start firing. I don't think there are any other options, it's a binary thing and it's the only form of ignition control that a mechanical diesel has. Yours isn't strictly mechanical, but AFAIK they use the same style of shut off and the PMD is just an electric signal amplifier controlling the length of fuel pulse.

White smoke + coolant mysteriously disappearing still points to water contamination of the cylinder, any way you slice it.

So you're thinking cracked head leaking coolant into the cylinder?

Im not scared of that possibility, just trying to figure out what the next step may be.
 
So you're thinking cracked head leaking coolant into the cylinder?

Im not scared of that possibility, just trying to figure out what the next step may be.

Keep observing the coolant "leak." It sounds like it's a pretty minor thing at this point. When it's leaking faster it may be more apparent where it's going. If the coolant is leaking into the cylinder, you could have a blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block. Or all of the above. I can tell you EXACTLY how depressing it is to replace heads on one of these engines and then find out that the block was also cracked. :doah: :doah:

6.5 engines are notorious for cracking the heads if they have been overheated. But yours is new enough that overheating shouldn't have been a problem (you do have the dual thermostats, yes?).
 
Yes dual thermostats. The truck runs very cool, even under heavy load situations.

Would the coolant leak cause that much of an issue on startup?
 
Yes dual thermostats. The truck runs very cool, even under heavy load situations.

Would the coolant leak cause that much of an issue on startup?

It doesn't sound like you have much of an issue. Ask @blazinzuk for his picture of his borrowed tow rig blowing a head gasket last summer.

A bad coolant leak will cause clouds of white water vapor to follow you down the road. You're talking about a small puff that immediately dissipates, right?
 
Hard start up could also be lift pump as they are known to be weak on those rigs.

However I don't think your cloud poof has anything to do with fuel. I agree with campy that you have a minor minor water leak. At this point I say keep fillin the coolant, and keep driving the truck. Problem solved.

It's not a big issue until it becomes one. Just think of the extra power you're making from having water injection in one of the cylinders.


Hey just pull the spark plugs and look for the wet one...lol
 
Well, it is an issue in the winter. There were a couple days last year that I could not get it to start. Maybe letting the glow plugs warm up longer will help.
 
Hard start up could also be lift pump as they are known to be weak on those rigs.

However I don't think your cloud poof has anything to do with fuel. I agree with campy that you have a minor minor water leak. At this point I say keep fillin the coolant, and keep driving the truck. Problem solved.

It's not a big issue until it becomes one. Just think of the extra power you're making from having water injection in one of the cylinders.


Hey just pull the spark plugs and look for the wet one...lol

I didn't realize you were also having hard starting problems in addition to the cloud (it certainly started nicely when I visited in the hot, hot summer).

And I know the spark plug thing was a joke, but you just might find a wet glow plug if you're lucky. It's not super likely on an IDI engine (the plugs aren't actually in the cylinder, and they are above the head gasket if that is the problem), but you might find something. :dunno:

If you had a factory 6.2 with this problem your dual exhaust would quickly indicate which side is having the problem. :D

Too bad you just installed that nice new exhaust, it kinda puts a damper on that diagnostic method. :doah:
 
Well, it is an issue in the winter. There were a couple days last year that I could not get it to start. Maybe letting the glow plugs warm up longer will help.

Something is wrong. My worn-out engines will all start in weather that's colder than your truck has ever seen. And your engine is a lot less worn out and now has new injectors (not to mention the factory fuel filter heater!). What type of plugs are you running, and what sort of controller are they using? Starting should not be a problem in Kansas. You don't even need to own a block heater down there.


And, yes, fogging a cylinder or two with coolant is one way to induce hard starting. But it shouldn't cripple an otherwise healthy engine, the other 7 cylinders should fire right off.
 
Well, they are Bosch plugs I know that. The controller is new from either SS Diesel or Leroy diesel just last year.
 
Well, they are Bosch plugs I know that. The controller is new from either SS Diesel or Leroy diesel just last year.

Ok. How long do the plugs initially stay on when you turn the key?

The Bosh Duraterms are rated for continuous duty (unlike the old OEM plugs), so if you put them behind an old 2-second controller it's kinda like buying a semi to haul your slide-in. It does the job, but it could be working so much harder.





@ktmoutfront :pimp: :haha:
 

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