I like the push bar for your truck
CK5
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2000 GMT400 CREW CAB SFA SWAP-The Warden: Fuel leak fixed and awaiting surgery…
- Thread starter GWeakland620
- Start date
The ultimate goal for this truck is tow duty/family camping trips/small offroad adventures.
So the classic pushbar was my other choice. The only other issue, is we deal with a lot of brush and overgrowth here, so I want something that goes across the entire front to push stuff out of the way. So maybe something more like this.
That looks like a ranchhand grille guard but it doesn't come up when I search on their website. Maybe gotta call them. They make very stout grille guards that actually bolt to the frame and function. Go Industries has one too that might be good.So the classic pushbar was my other choice. The only other issue, is we deal with a lot of brush and overgrowth here, so I want something that goes across the entire front to push stuff out of the way. So maybe something more like this.
My issues is, how would that work with my SAS brackets? I may just be better off building something myself.
Yeah I see. I need to build one for my blazer. I put the tabs on my bumper to bolt it on and I want to build a CUCV style one. I also like them to be functional for trees and critters.
I had a similar push bar with brush guards on a 79 K10. It was made by Go Rhino which I think is still around. It was attached with the bumper bolts.
Maybe find one of the cool old Luverne brush guards from the 90's, always liked those. The bull bars usually look tacky
I had to drill some new holes in my ARB bumper brackets to work with the ORD brackets, I imagine you'd have a similar situation with a grille guard like that. Then if you drill it right, you can put your tow hooks back on.
So the classic pushbar was my other choice. The only other issue, is we deal with a lot of brush and overgrowth here, so I want something that goes across the entire front to push stuff out of the way. So maybe something more like this.
I definitely vote for this style if you want to keep the stock bumper.
Block heater is toast in this thing already. Not sure if it was touching the block and rattled itself enough to break it or what, but it no worky. Checked with the multimeter and showed zero ohms. Can't remember what it should read, but I know it isn't zero 
While trying to start it last Monday to drive it to work, the starter decided to lock up. After inspection on Wednesday I noticed the built-in ground strap had melted off. I got the starter warrantied out and picked up another block heater (this time I bought one from O'reilly's so I could have a local warranty). Swapped the starter out yesterday and it fired up after a few seconds of cranking. Yesterday's high was 42*, so plenty warm enough. Block heater will get swapped in the next couple of days, and hopefully last longer than a few months.
While trying to start it last Monday to drive it to work, the starter decided to lock up. After inspection on Wednesday I noticed the built-in ground strap had melted off. I got the starter warrantied out and picked up another block heater (this time I bought one from O'reilly's so I could have a local warranty). Swapped the starter out yesterday and it fired up after a few seconds of cranking. Yesterday's high was 42*, so plenty warm enough. Block heater will get swapped in the next couple of days, and hopefully last longer than a few months.
Block heater is toast in this thing already. Not sure if it was touching the block and rattled itself enough to break it or what, but it no worky. Checked with the multimeter and showed zero ohms. Can't remember what it should read, but I know it isn't zero
While trying to start it last Monday to drive it to work, the starter decided to lock up. After inspection on Wednesday I noticed the built-in ground strap had melted off. I got the starter warrantied out and picked up another block heater (this time I bought one from O'reilly's so I could have a local warranty). Swapped the starter out yesterday and it fired up after a few seconds of cranking. Yesterday's high was 42*, so plenty warm enough. Block heater will get swapped in the next couple of days, and hopefully last longer than a few months.
Check your ohmmeter settings. A burned out coil will read infinite resistance (open circuit). A good coil will read a small number of ohms. If your meter is looking at the wrong range a 9-ohm coil may come up as zero.
If it was actually zero ohms (dead short), you'd be blowing the breaker and/or throwing sparks every time it's plugged in.
Do you have an inline current/kW meter?
When plugged in, the heater was not getting hot. Checked with my space heater at the end of that extension cord, and it works fine. Checked ohms last time I replaced the heater, and I was thinking the new one read somewhere in the 25 range. Checked both at the plug, and at the actual heater itself this time and no-go.
If it were open circuit you'd have a simple answer...
Block heater is toast in this thing already. Not sure if it was touching the block and rattled itself enough to break it or what, but it no worky. Checked with the multimeter and showed zero ohms. Can't remember what it should read, but I know it isn't zero
While trying to start it last Monday to drive it to work, the starter decided to lock up. After inspection on Wednesday I noticed the built-in ground strap had melted off. I got the starter warrantied out and picked up another block heater (this time I bought one from O'reilly's so I could have a local warranty). Swapped the starter out yesterday and it fired up after a few seconds of cranking. Yesterday's high was 42*, so plenty warm enough. Block heater will get swapped in the next couple of days, and hopefully last longer than a few months.
That sucks! We just put a lower rad hose heater on Colbys 01 Duramax it works great and was super easy to install. Plus you can feel it with your hand if its working or not.
Either way, I have to pull the heater to at least inspect it.
I've thought about this route. And I may still.
Woohoo! It sure is a good sound. The starter is one of the first things I had to replace on mine, as well as, adding a starter nose bracket, which was missing.
I don't know what happened, but I came out to the truck last Saturday to do my bi-monthly diesel start up, and it fired off immediately and didn't smoke at all. Also, the CEL is off now. It's sounds normal and is running normal. The only thing I am thinking, is that the Injection Timing Stepper Motor was stuck, and something helped it become unstuck. I have since drove the truck 4-5 more times and have yet to have a single hiccup. I had read that the ITSM can become stuck, and that guys have pulled them apart, clean, and reassembled with good outcomes. I just wrote mine off as a bad pump. So the plan going forward, is to get a buildable core and send it off for a rebuild, then swap once I have the time and money to do everything right. We have a small trip planned on Sunday to check out some cool historical stuff south of town, so I will post up the results of the trip.
