If this truck is a keeper you should go with current spec. I was not happy when I had to cough up the ~$50/g fluid but I would have always worried if I had not.
CK5
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2003 duramax
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I'm not sure what fluid to buy now hahahahaha
I wouldn't. I know that isn't what you want to hear, however the service interval from Allison for Dex III to Transyn 295 was absolutely shocking!
Better oil is always worth it IME.
Save the older oil for the TH350.
Yes, I know, I just posted about using the 295 spec is fine, but it's far ahead of DexIII according to specifications.
My summary of the recommendatio
Yup. Looks like Napa has it for $52 (fok!).
Yes, even though the price is up there.
I got a deal from my local supplier when I bought the most recent drum. $1900, no idea why they went so cheap, but I didn't ask.
But when a service takes almost 10 gallons, we can burn through it!
That's about right for bulk pricing
That's below where they start for Mobil, around here, at least.
But, ya know how things can be.
What i meant was 10-15% discount for bulk.
You got 15% discount
I would suspect the fan clutch if your ac is getting warm during a long idle.
My 01 does get alittle less cool atva long light. More noticeable over 110° ambien. Under 105° not so much.
My 01 does get alittle less cool atva long light. More noticeable over 110° ambien. Under 105° not so much.
The other thing to consider is partially plugged cooling stack.
When my son's '03 was doing similar things aa well as heating up more than in the past while pulling, we pulled the grille and fan shroud out to clean everything out going backwards. I made a tip for the pressure washer that had a small hole in the side and the original one welded shut. Gave us a 90* nozzle.
Now I see ads for flat bar attachments which look even better.
We pulled the radiator loose from it's mounts to push it towards the engine a little. Seems like we loosened the condenser or CAC as well.
I have learned to use compressed air with the air comb, then wash it, then hit it with air a 2nd time, then wash a 2nd time. It takes some time to get the bug remains and cottonwood tree fibers loosened up.
We had swapped the fan clutch before this with only a small improvement. This made the biggest difference. However it's not a quick process.
Agree do not "FLUSH" In fact do not anyone flush any automatic trans. Everytime I talk to people with major auto trans failure,someone had "flushed" it not long before.
Not always but enough to put 2 and 2 together
The way I was told to do a flush was to run the cooler lines to a bucket full of ATF would that hurt?
I haven't done that yet it's just something I was taught
Yep - one bucket suck’n and the other dump’n.
If possible ( assuming the vehicle is elevated ) gently run through the gears to help the converter flush too.
Those commercial “flushing” setups are notorious for allowing more crap into a trans that was basically healthy to begin with - in most cases they are not maintained properly and almost certainly never flushed properly by the place that operates it.
They are good in theory but not so much in practice.
Then again maybe that’s all by design…
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Yrah exactly.
So that method is ok as long as the clean bucket is clean ATF.
The only time I had my chevy van flushed at jiffy lube was after it leaked most of the fluid from the slip yoke and my brother ran it till it was acting up, I saw the leak topped it off, and the fluid was black.
I had it flushed then it ran ok but would shudder at part throttle, Greg Ducato told me to add a tube of shudder fix and it ran good enough until I gave away the van 3 years later
Of course, and always flush the cooler out as well - no need in letting a little old fluid mix in with all that clean and fresh stuff after all that effort.
If this type of flushing was done regularly and on schedule transmission issues would drop considerably.
I will tackle this on my day off. No flush, just a filter change and refill the fluid
I want to level this truck. I bought the torsion keys and the C-clamp to do it. Will I need an alignment after doing this? Should I mark the torsion screws now so I know the depth to install them against the torsion keys?
Or can I turn the existing screws in the torsion keys a bit to level the truck? In doing that will this add more tension the CV and ball joints?
Or can I turn the existing screws in the torsion keys a bit to level the truck? In doing that will this add more tension the CV and ball joints?
Turning the adjusters will not get you as much as the keys. The CVs will be fine. You will want to buy upper control arms that are adjusted for a leveling kit. They change the angle of the balljoint or you will be doing balljoints very often from maxing them out. I think maybe Cognito has some nice ones. Just wing it on the screw depth and take measurements at the fender above the tire. Jack up and adjust then roll forward or back to settle the tires then recheck. You will need an alignment when done to fix your camber.
