Most probably know my truck as the overgrown trail plugger but in case you don't, heres a pic:
And also as some of you know I've been collecting MB U419 axles. I started with a pair for my truck then just kept going... Ended up with a total of 17 fronts and 2 rears and sold all but 1 rear and 3 fronts. One of the fronts will be spare parts and the rear will be spare portal parts and the other two fronts are going in the truck.
Just some info on the 419's. They look like the 406/416's that we have seen on here from a distance. But they use U1300L style portal boxes and axle shafts but use the older 406/416 housings. So they are not quite U1300 bling but they are just as strong axle wise, the housing may only be rated at 4.25 tons intead of 6 or something but hey whatever, who's counting. These yoke style axles instead of the trunion style of the 406/416. I like 'em. They come from SEE tractors that the military uses.
So anyway, I was waiting on a time to swap them into my truck but never really had a chance and the 60/14 were working ok at the moment. Well then I had to try and keep up with JR at the hammers through the whoopdy doo's and ended up like this:
One of the 9/16" bolts in a JJ broke and caused another JJ to break in half and rotate the axle up taking out both front coilovers and driveshaft.
So, guess thats my reason to swap axles eh? Anyway, I have an event on July 20th and a real important one Aug. 23rd. So thats my deadline.
Still with me? Ok, here we go with the build. As with all mog axles you need pinion conversions to run them with regular driveshafts. These cost quite a bit of money but being the crafty guy I am I turned on DIY Network and DVR'd the pinion conversion shows and got started.
Took the end 3.5" of the stock mog driveshaft and lopped it off. Turned it down to 2.375" OD and put a groove in it for welding purposes. Also took a piece of 4.75" round bar and machined it into a companion flange for a flange yoke.
They plop together with a .002" interference fit and then get welded. Pollished surface finish on the splined section since this is where the pinion seals will ride.
Next I took the torque tubes from the mog and cut off the last 9". This holds the existing pinion seal and outer pinion bearing race. So this has to be reused. I then turned a bore into the end of it for a .007" interference fit pinion seal. Actually, two pinion seals, I hate pinion leaks, or any leaks, and wanted dual seals and yes I copied the dual seal idea from the Sammi build in the mog section. So that will be 3 total pinion seals on each axle. The seals are from a 1946 Ford 2.5 ton truck. I spent 3 hours going through catalogs until I found them, perfect dimensions in everyway and rated at 3500 fpm so there good to go! Cost $36 a piece though...
Mog pinions, one on the left has some issues, it was left in the rain by the US Govt. Everything is good except the outer bearing, it's just a spare anyway. You can see the start of my pinion conversion on the right:
Driveshaft mocked in there to check it out:
Splined section welded to the flange:
And then bolted with 6 1/2" bolts:
I am using the stock mog driveshaft bits due to their shear size and fully captured u-joint caps, I dig'em.
And also as some of you know I've been collecting MB U419 axles. I started with a pair for my truck then just kept going... Ended up with a total of 17 fronts and 2 rears and sold all but 1 rear and 3 fronts. One of the fronts will be spare parts and the rear will be spare portal parts and the other two fronts are going in the truck.
Just some info on the 419's. They look like the 406/416's that we have seen on here from a distance. But they use U1300L style portal boxes and axle shafts but use the older 406/416 housings. So they are not quite U1300 bling but they are just as strong axle wise, the housing may only be rated at 4.25 tons intead of 6 or something but hey whatever, who's counting. These yoke style axles instead of the trunion style of the 406/416. I like 'em. They come from SEE tractors that the military uses.
So anyway, I was waiting on a time to swap them into my truck but never really had a chance and the 60/14 were working ok at the moment. Well then I had to try and keep up with JR at the hammers through the whoopdy doo's and ended up like this:
One of the 9/16" bolts in a JJ broke and caused another JJ to break in half and rotate the axle up taking out both front coilovers and driveshaft.
So, guess thats my reason to swap axles eh? Anyway, I have an event on July 20th and a real important one Aug. 23rd. So thats my deadline.
Still with me? Ok, here we go with the build. As with all mog axles you need pinion conversions to run them with regular driveshafts. These cost quite a bit of money but being the crafty guy I am I turned on DIY Network and DVR'd the pinion conversion shows and got started.
Took the end 3.5" of the stock mog driveshaft and lopped it off. Turned it down to 2.375" OD and put a groove in it for welding purposes. Also took a piece of 4.75" round bar and machined it into a companion flange for a flange yoke.
They plop together with a .002" interference fit and then get welded. Pollished surface finish on the splined section since this is where the pinion seals will ride.
Next I took the torque tubes from the mog and cut off the last 9". This holds the existing pinion seal and outer pinion bearing race. So this has to be reused. I then turned a bore into the end of it for a .007" interference fit pinion seal. Actually, two pinion seals, I hate pinion leaks, or any leaks, and wanted dual seals and yes I copied the dual seal idea from the Sammi build in the mog section. So that will be 3 total pinion seals on each axle. The seals are from a 1946 Ford 2.5 ton truck. I spent 3 hours going through catalogs until I found them, perfect dimensions in everyway and rated at 3500 fpm so there good to go! Cost $36 a piece though...
Mog pinions, one on the left has some issues, it was left in the rain by the US Govt. Everything is good except the outer bearing, it's just a spare anyway. You can see the start of my pinion conversion on the right:
Driveshaft mocked in there to check it out:
Splined section welded to the flange:
And then bolted with 6 1/2" bolts:
I am using the stock mog driveshaft bits due to their shear size and fully captured u-joint caps, I dig'em.
to your welding. 
