I got the third crossmember out which is the rearmost crossmember that the gas tank attaches attaches to. I'll be welding in the new one over the next few days.
Last edited:
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
2014 Silverado High Country RUST Nightmare
- Thread starter ZombieK5
- Start date
2014 Silverado we bought for our 16 yr old. Turns out the rear frame is suffering the normal total corrosion issue
Slow progress. Been busy, had 6 Metallica shows in 4 cities and house crap.
Just got the 3rd crossmember in (will finish welding tomorrow). Got back half of frame painted (POR15). Test fit gas tank and all is good!
Both rear spring brackets went in easy peasy.
Just got the 3rd crossmember in (will finish welding tomorrow). Got back half of frame painted (POR15). Test fit gas tank and all is good!
Both rear spring brackets went in easy peasy.
Rear Fuel tank crossmember is in and painted.
Did the 1st plate to reinforce the frame where the fuel tank goes. Also welded in tiny plates where the fuel tank bolts to the forward fuel tank crossmember. Overhead welding SUCKS! It would take 2 years for me to get good at that.
My welding gas tank ran out as I was finishing the last small crossmember plate on the right. Gave me major porosity, need to get a new tank and fix those welds. (Had rust thru where the fuel tank strap bolts to the front fuel tank crossmember)
Preping for the next frame section.
I hate this project.
Did the 1st plate to reinforce the frame where the fuel tank goes. Also welded in tiny plates where the fuel tank bolts to the forward fuel tank crossmember. Overhead welding SUCKS! It would take 2 years for me to get good at that.
My welding gas tank ran out as I was finishing the last small crossmember plate on the right. Gave me major porosity, need to get a new tank and fix those welds. (Had rust thru where the fuel tank strap bolts to the front fuel tank crossmember)
Preping for the next frame section.
I hate this project.
There's shops out there that all they do is this all day every day, now imagine working there 
Can't imagine that. This is really a tough project.There's shops out there that all they do is this all day every day, now imagine working there
So far...
Last edited:
One of the reasons I don't live in NJ anymore, well not really its just like icing on the cake.
This is sad to see.
MORE welding today.
Frame Section under driver side backseat.
Work isn't overly difficult. Prep is the longest part. Also, welding outta position sucks. You have to get your head all tucked up between the frame and foot rail. Over your head welding is never easy and there are several large gaps that need to be welded. However, not a big deal overall.
Frame Section under driver side backseat.
Work isn't overly difficult. Prep is the longest part. Also, welding outta position sucks. You have to get your head all tucked up between the frame and foot rail. Over your head welding is never easy and there are several large gaps that need to be welded. However, not a big deal overall.
Work goes on.
Nearly done with welding. Few small tabs and the evap canister bracket then done.
Had a transfer case leak so we dropped it. Found that the input shaft retaining C-clip exploded for lack of a better word. The clip self destructed and subsequently caused the seal to blow out. Replaced the C Clip and seal plus it got a new rear output seal.
Started painting also.
Nearly done with welding. Few small tabs and the evap canister bracket then done.
Had a transfer case leak so we dropped it. Found that the input shaft retaining C-clip exploded for lack of a better word. The clip self destructed and subsequently caused the seal to blow out. Replaced the C Clip and seal plus it got a new rear output seal.
Started painting also.
ALMOST DONE. Got the bed back on the frame today. Thanks to everyone that helped carry the bed and position it on the bed. Need to hook up some hoses, replace some fluids and snug some bolts. Can't wait to get this outta the garage?
Are you doing any Lanolin based coating like fluid film or Surface Shield?
ABSOLUTELY
It was never done before we bought it but I have a gallon of Fluid Film and an install gun.
Was about to fill the transfer case on the 2014 Silverado High County. Pulled the plug (fluid was already drained) and let the last drops of fluid to drain. I stuck a magnetic screwdriver in and out came some pieces of metal larger than dust. Also dug out another piece that was plastic and 1" long. I searched and it seems it is from a THRUST WASHER. Pretty sure it came off the main shaft.
So....options. I could fill it and run it but the absence of the thrust washer will cause metal to metal contact resulting in eventual failure.
I could rebuild the unit (parts seem to be about $350 - Add another $225 for chain and, $100 for clutch discs)
I could buy a reman unit (prices range from $1000 - $2200)
I have the tools and have done my NP205.
ISSUES
YouTube is seriously lacking in videos for this transfer case. Found a video for a MP1222 which is practically the same but a manual shift version. It seems to be the closest I can find.
Parts - several companies sell kits with seals and bearings but none say if they are Chinesium or made in Japan/USA
Anyone have a source for this transfer case (video, written Manuel, etc...)
Any recommendations for parts is also welcome.
So....options. I could fill it and run it but the absence of the thrust washer will cause metal to metal contact resulting in eventual failure.
I could rebuild the unit (parts seem to be about $350 - Add another $225 for chain and, $100 for clutch discs)
I could buy a reman unit (prices range from $1000 - $2200)
I have the tools and have done my NP205.
ISSUES
YouTube is seriously lacking in videos for this transfer case. Found a video for a MP1222 which is practically the same but a manual shift version. It seems to be the closest I can find.
Parts - several companies sell kits with seals and bearings but none say if they are Chinesium or made in Japan/USA
Anyone have a source for this transfer case (video, written Manuel, etc...)
Any recommendations for parts is also welcome.
What about just slapping a junkyard unit in there?
Try Torque King 4x4 maybe for parts and info.
Try Torque King 4x4 maybe for parts and info.
I'd maybe do that for a transfer case from the 80's. These MP cases used weak/brittle retaining clips and most suffer from broken/shattered clips thay wreak havoc inside the cases. The clutches also go bad prematurely. I'm leaning toward rebuilding it. Raybestos, I found, make improved friction clutches for this TC. Parts are surprisingly inexpensive.
I'm hoping someone here has done the clutch pack for this TC and had some advice. I have the factory manual for this truck but the instructions are vague.
That looks like part of a thrust washer from inside the planetary reduction gearset. Which would be weird, they're usually pretty durable. They're in there to control thrust on the planets so in theory, if you had to drive it, you might be able to get away with it as long as you don't use low range. Maybe. With the input snapring being blown up, I suspect a real problem in those planets since all of that works together. Or maybe the snapring blowout caused the thrust washer problem and now you have the input gear under control so it's less of a problem? Probably good to pursue some new or rebuilt options...
Well....$500+ later and the special clutch pack tool, I am rebuilding.
Chevy parts should be here in 4 days. The special tool will be here today. Gonna Crack the case and start disassembly. I'll document since I haven't found a single source to do this.
Clutch Pack tool came in. This will be great. It has several seal install tools and bushing Removers.
So, Transfer Case is apart and on the work bench. I think it was opened up before. TWO thrust washers are missing. From the chunks I found, at least one disintegrated but I don't think the 2nd one was ever installed. I have major metal on metal damage on the
Input Shaft
Sun Gear
Shift Fork
and
4 Wheel Drive Synch Hub
Also need to replace all bearings and the oil pump. I'm up to $1,050 in GM parts.
Here is some of the damage.
I included a short video of the oil pump. It has a ton of play. Not sure if it is supposed to have this much play.
Thoughts+
View attachment 20250826_174641.mp4
Input Shaft
Sun Gear
Shift Fork
and
4 Wheel Drive Synch Hub
Also need to replace all bearings and the oil pump. I'm up to $1,050 in GM parts.
Here is some of the damage.
I included a short video of the oil pump. It has a ton of play. Not sure if it is supposed to have this much play.
Thoughts+
View attachment 20250826_174641.mp4
