Felpro gives me the best results.
CK5
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2insane’s Random 6.2/6.5 Diesel Projects
- Thread starter 2INSANE
- Start date
Felpro gives me the best results.
I got the standard felpro for the 6.2 and it failed real quick.
I ended up getting the 6.5 turbo gasket +.10
I have a turbo so I figured it should be better.
If it fails again I will put the studs and try to find .40 I was told to get
Your heads and or deck might be warped if you blow a new HG quick. Have you taken the motor/heads to a machine shop to get clearance measurements? You could buy a certified straight piece of metal and feeler gauges to check for straightness.
Head Gasket size is determined on how far the pistons protrude past the deck height. I used a deck bridge tool from Amazon to get those specs.
My heads are rebuilt and nothing wrong with them.
My failure was the TTY bolts but I have a turbo on a NA 6.2, I am thinking that a thicker gasket will reduce the compression ratio a little and help the engine survive the turbo pressure
I would not recommend multiple layered head gaskets with a turbo to lower your compression. I think if you did some standard head gaskets with arp head studs and 18:1 pistons, you would be golden! That combination would give you longer life to your motor because it is a little more gentle on the lower end. Plus you get to boost more! Lol! Look at the Duramax compression ratios and you will understand what I am talking about. I don’t think 18:1 gives super hard starts like others say. Sure you might have to give it longer glow plug time in the winter and plug it in but in reality not much difference with the starting. In fact I am highly considering switching my pistons to 18:1 for that longevity and increase of fuel and boost.
After getting the motor set up for a quick dry run, I finally got this Optimizer running like a champ! Customer came over and was pleased! It feels soo great! Each build is dramatic and can sometimes get stressful and emotional.
The customer did decide to do a few other things before I finish it 100%. He wanted the 4911 IP rebuilt which means I have to take off a few parts again to get it out. Also wanted to add the Paradoxbydesign coolant upgrade. I will get pictures of it once it arrives.
The customer did decide to do a few other things before I finish it 100%. He wanted the 4911 IP rebuilt which means I have to take off a few parts again to get it out. Also wanted to add the Paradoxbydesign coolant upgrade. I will get pictures of it once it arrives.
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Before I installed all the accessories on the motor, the customer wanted the IP rebuilt just for safe measure. I ordered the cheapest rebuilt IP I could find. Pensacola Injection out of Florida sent a fresh rebuilt 4911 injection pump. I test ran it and found it was a bad rebuild. Leaking fuel in 3 spots and the motor ran like crap. I sent it back along with the core to not get the $200 core charge and they sent me back the core rebuilt at no extra charge. The second rebuilt IP works great!
Customer also wanted to do an additional upgrade to the coolant system by having me add the paradoxbydesign kit. After running several tests on the motor stand, I highly recommended this upgrade to the customer because the rear of the block does get hotter than the front even when not in the motor bay. I have tested several motors and verified It is a manufacturer cooling defect on all 6.2/6.5 motors.
paradoxbydesign.com
The customer wanted his downpipe between the motor and the frame. After doing this on my personal vehicle, I advised the customer that we should relocate the high idle advance switch to the coolant crossover tube because the exhaust gas temperatures from the downpipe will cause premature failure on the switch from the heat with the downpipe being so close to the switch. I have had to replace three sensors within a year because of this on my personal vehicle. Plus it is a lot easier to replace the high idle switch being on the coolant crossover then having to remove the downpipe and trying to get it out of the rear of the block.
Edit: the paradoxbydesign kit can go above or below the plenums. Customer requested above plenums to show it off.
Customer also wanted to do an additional upgrade to the coolant system by having me add the paradoxbydesign kit. After running several tests on the motor stand, I highly recommended this upgrade to the customer because the rear of the block does get hotter than the front even when not in the motor bay. I have tested several motors and verified It is a manufacturer cooling defect on all 6.2/6.5 motors.
Cooling Upgrades
We upgrade Rivian, Cybertruck, HMMWV, Humvee, Hummer H1, CUCV, Suburban and Blazer trucks. We ofer aurodynamic armored Rivian and Cybertruck wheels, Cooling system upgrades for 6.2 and 6.5 diesel trucks. Cargo bed load systems and more!
paradoxbydesign.com
The customer wanted his downpipe between the motor and the frame. After doing this on my personal vehicle, I advised the customer that we should relocate the high idle advance switch to the coolant crossover tube because the exhaust gas temperatures from the downpipe will cause premature failure on the switch from the heat with the downpipe being so close to the switch. I have had to replace three sensors within a year because of this on my personal vehicle. Plus it is a lot easier to replace the high idle switch being on the coolant crossover then having to remove the downpipe and trying to get it out of the rear of the block.
Edit: the paradoxbydesign kit can go above or below the plenums. Customer requested above plenums to show it off.
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Adding the single alternator serpentine belt upgrade, plenums, new power steering pump, turbo etc was a walk in the park since I’ve done dozens of these upgrades. The customer wanted to delete the A/C system so I got a delete pully and fabricated a bracket with some spacer washers from my scrap metal pile and Ace Hardware. Here is the pics of the finished motor.
Customer did not want the turbo power cover I had laying around in the shop but here’s pic of it on.
Also added a new belt since the old one did not align with the marks on the tensioner.
Customer did not want the turbo power cover I had laying around in the shop but here’s pic of it on.
Also added a new belt since the old one did not align with the marks on the tensioner.
Right now I feel like a kid in a candy shop because a guy 74 miles away posted a 1986 c30 camper special one ton Dually with a utility box SM465 manual transmission 4.10 gears one ton frame and axles, np205, good tires, spare, crane in bed, vice in bed, 6.2 diesel with a full Banks Turbo kit. Minimal rust. Pyro, boost and rpm gauges on dash. Runs and drives. $5,000. I jumped on it so fast! lol! Behold…
No blow by, smokes at idle (Might need timing adjustment because the IP shows extremely retarded). Got it to 12 psi boost on test drive so I know the turbo is working.
No blow by, smokes at idle (Might need timing adjustment because the IP shows extremely retarded). Got it to 12 psi boost on test drive so I know the turbo is working.
I have been very, very busy over the last couple weeks. A customer with a military cucv fire utility truck conversion 6.2 L diesel with an ATS turbo system had his truck towed 194 miles just to have me work on it because nobody else in Montana will do this kind of work anymore except for me. The customer said it hasn’t ran in over a year. It needed a starter and has a lot of boost leaks after doing several hours of free diagnostics. I concluded that there is air in the fuel lines. The plugs were not working, lift pump was bad, leaking boost from several locations and turbo needed to be replaced or rebuilt as well.
Here’s a copy/paste of what I have done to it so far and cost.
6.2 Diesel Motor/Tuneup/Turbo Maintenance invoice.
Parts:
Fuel Hose $8.97
Fuel Hose $5.99
Prefilter $5.39
5xG60 Glow Plugs $25
5 Electrical Glow Plug connectors $.50
7 Blade Fan Upgrade $100
2002 ESS Military Gear Drive $100
Lower plenum gasket $25.99
Coolant $15.99
Oil $34.99
Oil $34.99
Brake Fluid $8.49
2 can brake cleaner $19.98
Lift plate delete gaskets $5.98
Fuel line $24.87
Starter bracket $17.99
Seafoam $9.99
Lucas oil stabilizer $15.99
Downpipe clamp $.50
2 wiper blades $19.98
Jet clean plenums/freeze plug upper plenum machine shop $44
5 gallons fuel $20.52
Air filter $12.99
Air cleaner gaskets $6.58
Labor:
04/14/24
Trip to parts store. Install clear hose from ip return to return hardline. Mount Electronic lift pump to passenger wheelwell. Grounded Lift pump. Install new hose from lift pump to fuel filter housing. Install prefilter. Remove intake and upper plenum. 1.5hr @ $90
Notes:
Throttle cable not mounted to firewall. Glow plugs not upgraded to self regulating G60. Turbo compressor wheel damaged and damage on inside of turbo mouth casing. Resistive compressor/shaft movement. Shaft play feels good. Upper ATS plenum RTV blown out causing boost leak and oil leak from CDR gases. Excessive CDR vent oil going into intake and turbo. Oil, Coolant and rear brake fluid levels low. Power steering levels good. Inspect turbo, inspect fluids and research turbo. $0
04/15/24
Notes:
Crank turns freely. It does not feel like there is a lot of compression resistance when turning the crank. Harmonic balancer appears good visually. Won’t know if it wobbles until motor runs. Normal Gm oil pan and rear main seal leakage. Not much. Antisway bar bushings are a little warn out but still functioning. Ignition wire tap for lift pump identified. Water in fuel and fuel heater no longer there, but wiring is still there. Vacuum pump not hooked up to anything. Still have 5 blade cooling fan. Lower radiator hose leaking coolant from water pump mouth piece.
All bells look good except alternator belt is cracking. $0
04/20/24
Labor:
Remove and install 7 blade fan with clutch. Remove vacuum pump and install ESS gear drive. Wire up electronic lift pump positive to fuel heater ignition control wire. Bend primary fuel line and connect it to electronic lift pump hose. Trip to parts store. Remove mechanical lift pump, refurbish plates and install delete plates. Attempt Install starter with support bracket and arp bolts. 4hr @ $240
04/21/24
Labor:
Upgrade 5 out of 8 glow plugs to G60. Hook up batteries and reinstall bezel. Top off coolant, oil and brake fluid. Test glow plug system and reconnect cut wire. Trip to parts store. Install new filter to ip fuel line. Old one was leaking. Change fuel filter. Prime fuel system. Modify starter. Vacuum around intake. Install starter and starter support brace. Start truck and drive around block. 3hr 45min @ $225
Notes:
Cold advance idle solenoid and switch works well. High idle sounds high but won’t know without a tachometer. Turbo exhaust outlet leaking, downpipe leaking (missing clamp) and exhaust manifold passenger side leaking above starter. Customer mentioned adding tachometer, pyrometer, boost gauges, rebuild turbo, install front brake pads, check pass hub noise and a rear disk brake conversion. $0
04/22/24
Labor:
Change oil and filter. Added Lucas stablizer. Remove lower plenum. Deleted old fuel hardline. Wire wheel RTV off upper and lower plenums. Drive to machine shop to drop off plenums for deep clean. Install new upper plenum cap, drive to parts store, clean intake ports, install lower plenum with new upper and lower gaskets, torqued to 30 pounds in sequence. Install upper plenum with new gasket to turbo. Clean air filter box and install new air filter Install missing clamp on downpipe. Test drove and got air in fuel lines from tank.
5.75hrs @ $345
Notes: 22 degrees unplugged the truck started after 8 seconds. Normal start up smoke that cleared up after 30 seconds or so. Compression seems good. Air coming from fuel tank. Tank will need to be drained and dropped.
Parts Total $565.67
Labor total $900
Total invoice $1465.67
Thank you for your payment! Looking forward to do more work to your truck when I get more time!
I ran out of time to finish the customers turbo rebuild and fix the air in fuel issues because the first customer gets priority. I did get it running and he is very happy about that and is willing to wait for me to do the other customers motor swap.
Here’s a copy/paste of what I have done to it so far and cost.
6.2 Diesel Motor/Tuneup/Turbo Maintenance invoice.
Parts:
Fuel Hose $8.97
Fuel Hose $5.99
Prefilter $5.39
5xG60 Glow Plugs $25
5 Electrical Glow Plug connectors $.50
7 Blade Fan Upgrade $100
2002 ESS Military Gear Drive $100
Lower plenum gasket $25.99
Coolant $15.99
Oil $34.99
Oil $34.99
Brake Fluid $8.49
2 can brake cleaner $19.98
Lift plate delete gaskets $5.98
Fuel line $24.87
Starter bracket $17.99
Seafoam $9.99
Lucas oil stabilizer $15.99
Downpipe clamp $.50
2 wiper blades $19.98
Jet clean plenums/freeze plug upper plenum machine shop $44
5 gallons fuel $20.52
Air filter $12.99
Air cleaner gaskets $6.58
Labor:
04/14/24
Trip to parts store. Install clear hose from ip return to return hardline. Mount Electronic lift pump to passenger wheelwell. Grounded Lift pump. Install new hose from lift pump to fuel filter housing. Install prefilter. Remove intake and upper plenum. 1.5hr @ $90
Notes:
Throttle cable not mounted to firewall. Glow plugs not upgraded to self regulating G60. Turbo compressor wheel damaged and damage on inside of turbo mouth casing. Resistive compressor/shaft movement. Shaft play feels good. Upper ATS plenum RTV blown out causing boost leak and oil leak from CDR gases. Excessive CDR vent oil going into intake and turbo. Oil, Coolant and rear brake fluid levels low. Power steering levels good. Inspect turbo, inspect fluids and research turbo. $0
04/15/24
Notes:
Crank turns freely. It does not feel like there is a lot of compression resistance when turning the crank. Harmonic balancer appears good visually. Won’t know if it wobbles until motor runs. Normal Gm oil pan and rear main seal leakage. Not much. Antisway bar bushings are a little warn out but still functioning. Ignition wire tap for lift pump identified. Water in fuel and fuel heater no longer there, but wiring is still there. Vacuum pump not hooked up to anything. Still have 5 blade cooling fan. Lower radiator hose leaking coolant from water pump mouth piece.
All bells look good except alternator belt is cracking. $0
04/20/24
Labor:
Remove and install 7 blade fan with clutch. Remove vacuum pump and install ESS gear drive. Wire up electronic lift pump positive to fuel heater ignition control wire. Bend primary fuel line and connect it to electronic lift pump hose. Trip to parts store. Remove mechanical lift pump, refurbish plates and install delete plates. Attempt Install starter with support bracket and arp bolts. 4hr @ $240
04/21/24
Labor:
Upgrade 5 out of 8 glow plugs to G60. Hook up batteries and reinstall bezel. Top off coolant, oil and brake fluid. Test glow plug system and reconnect cut wire. Trip to parts store. Install new filter to ip fuel line. Old one was leaking. Change fuel filter. Prime fuel system. Modify starter. Vacuum around intake. Install starter and starter support brace. Start truck and drive around block. 3hr 45min @ $225
Notes:
Cold advance idle solenoid and switch works well. High idle sounds high but won’t know without a tachometer. Turbo exhaust outlet leaking, downpipe leaking (missing clamp) and exhaust manifold passenger side leaking above starter. Customer mentioned adding tachometer, pyrometer, boost gauges, rebuild turbo, install front brake pads, check pass hub noise and a rear disk brake conversion. $0
04/22/24
Labor:
Change oil and filter. Added Lucas stablizer. Remove lower plenum. Deleted old fuel hardline. Wire wheel RTV off upper and lower plenums. Drive to machine shop to drop off plenums for deep clean. Install new upper plenum cap, drive to parts store, clean intake ports, install lower plenum with new upper and lower gaskets, torqued to 30 pounds in sequence. Install upper plenum with new gasket to turbo. Clean air filter box and install new air filter Install missing clamp on downpipe. Test drove and got air in fuel lines from tank.
5.75hrs @ $345
Notes: 22 degrees unplugged the truck started after 8 seconds. Normal start up smoke that cleared up after 30 seconds or so. Compression seems good. Air coming from fuel tank. Tank will need to be drained and dropped.
Parts Total $565.67
Labor total $900
Total invoice $1465.67
Thank you for your payment! Looking forward to do more work to your truck when I get more time!
I ran out of time to finish the customers turbo rebuild and fix the air in fuel issues because the first customer gets priority. I did get it running and he is very happy about that and is willing to wait for me to do the other customers motor swap.
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Pics of 12v starter modifications to fit with the nv4500 transmission swap.
Pics of the faulty ATS upper plenum egr delete plug that had a flat plate as a plug and was epoxy welded. Over time the hard compound epoxy rotted and got sucked up into the turbo blades causing turbo damage. The old plug was located on the bottom side of the plenum which is where the forced air of the turbo sucks. You can see in the picture of where the old plug was at and the corrosion the epoxy was doing to the aluminum. I installed a new compression freeze plug on the top (Opposite) side that does not get as much pressure because it being atmospheric and is less prone to fail from the downforce. Machine shop jetted the plenums and I installed a new air filter after doing the plenums.
Pics of the faulty ATS upper plenum egr delete plug that had a flat plate as a plug and was epoxy welded. Over time the hard compound epoxy rotted and got sucked up into the turbo blades causing turbo damage. The old plug was located on the bottom side of the plenum which is where the forced air of the turbo sucks. You can see in the picture of where the old plug was at and the corrosion the epoxy was doing to the aluminum. I installed a new compression freeze plug on the top (Opposite) side that does not get as much pressure because it being atmospheric and is less prone to fail from the downforce. Machine shop jetted the plenums and I installed a new air filter after doing the plenums.
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ATS down pipe bracket warped and leaking exhaust. Will need to build a new one when I swap the turbo.
Also noted the ATS passenger side exhaust manifold design prevents 3 of the 4 glow plugs from being replaced unless the motor gets pulled out of the motor bay. The manifold also touches the frame with new motor mounts installed. Noted the frame was cut to prevent this. Here’s more pictures.
I will get as many pictures and info of this ATS kit and share with yal because there is not a lot of pictures and info out there for the ATS kit. As cool, rare and nostalgic as the ATS kit is… I am not a fan of it.
Also noted the ATS passenger side exhaust manifold design prevents 3 of the 4 glow plugs from being replaced unless the motor gets pulled out of the motor bay. The manifold also touches the frame with new motor mounts installed. Noted the frame was cut to prevent this. Here’s more pictures.
I will get as many pictures and info of this ATS kit and share with yal because there is not a lot of pictures and info out there for the ATS kit. As cool, rare and nostalgic as the ATS kit is… I am not a fan of it.
I am not the greatest fan of the ATS turbo kit but it came with my 3/4 ton 4x4 suburban at $1200 total, I am not complaining.
And I replaced all the glow plugs with bosch self limiting glow plugs before I put the turbo on.
All the ac Delco g60 glow plugs at the time were counterfeit so I went with the bosch.
I like them
I heard there was 2 ATS turbo kits for the 6.2? Or was it a kit for a 6.2 and a kit for the 6.5? Or maybe it was a van kit? lol! IDK.
Anyhow, did you have to cut frame to get it to fit your square? Are the glow plugs accessible with the model kit you have without taking out the motor and take off the exhaust manifold?
I found a company that rebuilds ATS turbos. They seemed excited to do it because of its rareness. Here’s link to company:
Classic Diesel Designs- IDI Performance Parts and Specialists
Classic Diesel Designs is your one stop shop for all things IDI Performance, from performance 7.3 and 6.9 IDI injection pumps and injectors, to custom upgraded performance IDI turbos, turbo kits and intakes, we have over 100 IDI specific products for your classic diesel!
classicdieseldesigns.com
Do you have any manuals or reading material for the ATS kit? I can’t find any manuals on Google.
I did find an old thread that has a lot of info and specs about the ATS kit here:
ATS specs?
Does anybody have any specs on the T04B that ATS used in their 6.2 kits?
www.thedieselpageforums.com
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I don't know if they made different kits but I don't remember mine having a plug for egr.
Mine otherwise looks exactly like yours.
As for the glow plugs access, I wouldn't say it easy, but not impossible, I found different ways for each of those glow plugs.
The purging of air at those injectors is also quite challenging but I can usually get it good enough with 5 injectors purged.
As for the frame, mine cleared fine but in general clearance is tight on everything especially the crossover exhaust pipe and the exhaust downpipe sharing the space with the driveshaft and the starter and of course the oil filter
And I don't have any manuals or any information other than looking at it and figuring things out.
What does yours look like with the air filter box off? I am interested to see the non egr style. Is your turbo an AR 60? I read there are 2 different turbos too.
Edit: Pic of customers turbo and identification marks.
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I want to say I remember ar60, but then again my memory is like Swiss cheese it could be you mentioning it got it in my head.
I will be working on it Monday, I will get you some pics and information
Oh yeah man that would be great. Maybe we should start a new tread and combine our forces and get as many pictures as possible of the ATS turbo system. Right now this tread probably has more ATS turbo info and pictures then any other tread in the world ha ha!
There's another member here who also had an ATS that he put on his CUCV.
I will dig up his thread
