Heat shrink butt connectors are a must for anything outside the cab. I just use them everywhere anyways.
CK5
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2insane’s Random 6.2/6.5 Diesel Projects
- Thread starter 2INSANE
- Start date
Yeah those led strips for the front blinker lights was setting off the blinker lights in the dash because they were not a 2 way. Going back to Oem bulbs and pigtails fixed it.
Customer wanted the cheaper solution of cast iron lift blocks in the rear instead of a shackle flip or new leaf springs. These blocks are cool because they have the 6 degree angle already cut. So no shims and pinion/driveshaft angles are now perfect!
Since I had the dash out, Customer asked if I was willing to do all the interior. “Well why of course good Sir,” I said. After discussing the interior plans, I got to it.
I gutted it all out! Wire wheeled the floor, gave it a CLR Bath, caulked the edges and gave 3 coats of the most expensive High Gloss White spray paint I could find at Ace Hardware.
Also put on new door weather striping, taped the loose wires to the floor and added some LMC truck universal insulation/heat shielding.
I gutted it all out! Wire wheeled the floor, gave it a CLR Bath, caulked the edges and gave 3 coats of the most expensive High Gloss White spray paint I could find at Ace Hardware.
Also put on new door weather striping, taped the loose wires to the floor and added some LMC truck universal insulation/heat shielding.
In between the flooring project, I sanded down the old dash, cleaned it with windex and siliconed all the cracks after razor bladed off all the sharp edges and high rises of the cracks.
Using 2 full tubes of silicone with a pencils size bead and a plethora of clamps, I installed a new cover lay to the dash. Having the dash out to install the cover lay really makes a better bond compared to installing it in cab. More clamps the better.
Before installing the dash into the truck, we thought some new dash speakers are in order!
I also wired up the amp wires. After installing the Bezel and my old stereo that the customer bought from me. The old Bezel Cover Lay was shot, so I removed it. I think it looks better anyhow.
Using 2 full tubes of silicone with a pencils size bead and a plethora of clamps, I installed a new cover lay to the dash. Having the dash out to install the cover lay really makes a better bond compared to installing it in cab. More clamps the better.
Before installing the dash into the truck, we thought some new dash speakers are in order!
I also wired up the amp wires. After installing the Bezel and my old stereo that the customer bought from me. The old Bezel Cover Lay was shot, so I removed it. I think it looks better anyhow.
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Next I installed that LMC hard mat, seat belts, kick panels, t-case shifter and molding and Siless on the back wall. Amp, subwoofers new rear speakers were next. The seat was last. I had to bribe the wife with ice cream to help me with the seat so I didn’t mess anything up. Lol! It all cleaned up nicely with a rag and WD-40.
I also installed Siless behind the door panels, junkyard straps, LMC door trim and Siless in place of where the lower door carpet will be…
Oh and a junkyard T-Case skid plate…
All this interior work has taken a few months of junkyard diving, ordering, waiting on parts and installing. There are a few more junkyard items I need to get and the upper trim/headboard before the interior is finished but as of right now, here’s where we are at. Damn she looks and sounds amazing!
I also installed Siless behind the door panels, junkyard straps, LMC door trim and Siless in place of where the lower door carpet will be…
Oh and a junkyard T-Case skid plate…
All this interior work has taken a few months of junkyard diving, ordering, waiting on parts and installing. There are a few more junkyard items I need to get and the upper trim/headboard before the interior is finished but as of right now, here’s where we are at. Damn she looks and sounds amazing!
Back to work on the Optimizer build. I used plastigauge and measured the clearance between the main bearings and crank. .026 seemed a little tight mostly on #4. Customer ordered Standard Main Cap Bearings and Main Cap Studs. My hands look dirty but it is just Molly lube from torquing down the girdle.
She'll have some good oil pressure.
The standard size crank bearings and main cap studs arrived. Using a new string of plastigauge, I measured the clearances. They all looked perfect and within spec.
Using assembly ultra slick lube on the bearings, installing the studs finger tight with oil resistant thread locker, installing the girdle and torqued down the caps.
I will check the thrust bearing clearances this weekend.
Using assembly ultra slick lube on the bearings, installing the studs finger tight with oil resistant thread locker, installing the girdle and torqued down the caps.
I will check the thrust bearing clearances this weekend.
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Got the thrust bearing clearance measured. Measuring somewhere between .004-.012 is the goal. Using feeler gauges it is at .008 clearance. I set the position of the crank at .004 clearance on each side.
Also got the oil gallery plugs installed, Oil Pressure gauge for the test run, Rear Main seal and Flexplate after making sure the new torque 1400 stall converter fit the flexplate. J39084 tool really made the rear main seal install clean and flush.
I would have done more to the motor today but I got a service call on a Honda Civic battery and alternator replacement.
Also got the oil gallery plugs installed, Oil Pressure gauge for the test run, Rear Main seal and Flexplate after making sure the new torque 1400 stall converter fit the flexplate. J39084 tool really made the rear main seal install clean and flush.
I would have done more to the motor today but I got a service call on a Honda Civic battery and alternator replacement.
Looking good. Those rear main tools sure seem like a waste of money until you get the seal on there perfectly square.
Yeah, I wish I had it when I did my personal optimizer build. Hopefully I’ll get to use it more in the future to justify its cost.
Sweet.
I'll pick up an Optimizer if ever find another turbo manifold....sigh
I'll pick up an Optimizer if ever find another turbo manifold....sigh
I would offer to sell you all you would need to do a turbo on a 6.2 or 6.5 but… The shipping costs would probably cost more than the parts! Lol!
I just need the manifold...I have everything else.
Chevy / GMC 6.2 6.5 Turbo Diesel * EXHAUST MANIFOLD SET | eBay
Welcome to my sale of this set of Exhaust Manifolds in good condition.
www.ebay.com
Holding out for this one...
That is the Banks Sidewinder manifold. A large number of people want those.
Good luck finding one. They don't make them and when they come up for sale. They go stupid fast.
Guy in MD has a full unopened kit for a suburban. He wants $2500, but pick up in person only. Saw it on Facebook marketplace if anyone is interested. Annapolis, Maryland area.
That was the original price when they started.
Is it the turbo system, the exhaust system or both?
