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2wd 14bff in a 4wd questions+bonus ?'s!

bladwin

bladwin

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Howdy all, so I bolted up a 14bff out of a 2wd into my burb. I got a couple of questions...

Anyone run this set up w/ 4" lift. The shock brackets hang lower than on a 4wd. What shocks did you use?

It has front 3/4 ton disks on it. The Eaton 15" wheels w/ 3.5" backspacing fit perfect w/ no grinding, (if you were wondering) I double checked the bs....the driverside wheel seems to stick out about 1.5" farther than the pass side????

Truck ran perfect 3 weeks ago, I'm bleeding the brakes w/out much success right now, can't lose the air bubbles. I've gone up and down the drive way a couple times testing. The rig runs horribly like it's got a bad vaccum leak, could this be connected? 89' burb stock engine and Mstr Cyl

Helfen mir bitte
 
I have a 2wd 14bff in my blazer right now. The shock are a pain. I have roughly a 7" net lift, and the cheapie Skyjacker 8" lift shocks are maxed out at ride height. When I get some money, I'll get Bilstein. Didn't get there yet. I'd say 6" to 8" lift shock sould work pretty well. Don't buy anything expensive before you check the actual length that you need.

Don't know about the wheels. Are you sure they are the exact same size? Any frame or suspension damage?

If your brake system has no leaks, you should not have trouble bleeding the brakes. I have had no luck with vacuum pumps, one man bleeders, etc... I always do it the old fashioned way. "Ok, pump the pedal, ok hold it, [open bleeder, close bleeder] ok, pump the pedal, etc..." You might have a master cylinder problem or a leak in one of the lines. Track that down. Check the vacuum line going to the booster. Make sure the grommet is there and it airtight. Other than that, I doubt there is any other connection between the truck running poor and the brake problems. Just start checking the basics and work from there.
 
bladwin said:
It has front 3/4 ton disks on it. The Eaton 15" wheels w/ 3.5" backspacing fit perfect w/ no grinding, (if you were wondering) I double checked the bs....the driverside wheel seems to stick out about 1.5" farther than the pass side????
Click to expand...

Donno how you're measuring, but something ain't right. You measuring against the body, the frame, springs, what?

bladwin said:
Truck ran perfect 3 weeks ago, I'm bleeding the brakes w/out much success right now, can't lose the air bubbles. I've gone up and down the drive way a couple times testing. The rig runs horribly like it's got a bad vaccum leak, could this be connected? 89' burb stock engine and Mstr Cyl
Click to expand...

Brakes shouldn't make it run bad ... chase down the vac leak or whatever first, I'd say.

As for brakes, pressure bleeding is the ONLY way... garden sprayer, do it yourself, cheap, and ohhhh soo nice.

-- A
 
Thanks for the replies, the wheel width thing is really weird, I'm stumped. I haven't measured but you can tell cuz one tire is just inside the wheel well and the other is sticking out about 1.5", I'll try to get a pic between downpoars. This has all been really fun under a tarp with driving rain and 50mph gusts...

I've been reading a lot of brake bleeding threads, I'm going to try my luck again tomorrow. It sounds like I have a split vaccum diaphram as my brakes "huff" when I press the pedal. I've put about a quart through the rear brake lines, nice new fluid for days but still bubbles...
 
You must take the rear calipers off and put a block of wood between the pads then have someone hold the calipers so that the bleeder is pointing up before you bleed them or you will NEVER get all the air out. I bled mine this way and they work perfectly. In fact i'm about to bleed them this way tomorrow as i've just re-installed the rear axle after doing some work.
 
But the bleeder fitting is already at the top of the assembly? Do you mean to do this to get the calipers up above the frame level?

I've gravity bled about a cup and a half through each side as well, brake warning light still on...
 
Yes the bleeder is on the top side but it isn't the highest point. The bleeder screw is tilted one way or the other so air can still get trapped above the bleeder screw. The bleeder screw needs to point STRAIGHT up so that nothing in the caliper bore is higher than it is.
 
if your brake warning light is on, don't you need to reset the proportioning valve? I always use a rubber hose on the end of the bleeder, and drop it down in a can with a inch or so of brake fluid in it. that way you can pump the bejeezes out of it, and it wont suck air back in. works great.
 
also, hissing when you step on the brakes means your vacuum booster is bad, that can cause the engine to run terrible.
as for the tires, have you tried swapping them side to side and seeing if it still measured the same way?
 
Thanks, I appreciate it. I found some good threads on the brake issues.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184876&highlight=vacuum+booster

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55250&highlight=reset+proportioning+valve

The suns out this morn and the pavements dry. I'll try swapping the wheels and see what happens and snap some pics, reset the p-valve, etc.

The hissing brakes are like a year old but the truck has been running fine, kinda strange.

Can you repair the booster or is it a replace?
 
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