2WD pitman arm that barely clears the frame.

[BadDog]

Anyone know of a 2WD pitman arm (for cross over) that barely clears the frame? The Ford Van arm (reamed out) is perfect, and I use that on my truggy, but I need another for the K5 and don't have time to spend in the junk yard, or tracking down someone to do the machine work. The K5 now has something like a 4" drop which makes the spring hit the DLE before even getting to the dropped bump stop. They typical Ford unit (in one of the write-ups) has too much drop, and I think that may well be what is on there.

So, anyone know of a particular pitman arm that barely clears the frame?

 

[55Willy]

dunno but the one i got is just like that. almost looked like you have to knotch the frame to clear the nut on the drag link end. you want it, i went with a trailmaster 6" drop on mine.

 

[BadDog]

I sent you a PM. If you're interested in selling, drop me a line...

 

[BadDog]

Well, I never heard back from 55Willy. Anyone else got a part number or application?

 

[az-k5]

You are talking about brian's old K5. IIRC he had a 6" drop arm, the write ups use a 4" drop arm. I haven't had a problem with mine and I let the springs go to 3/4" negative.

 

[Stephen]

The one I used on wally came from a box of pitman arms but had a ford logo on it. The closest thing I found to one like it was a 2wd truck. I had to bend mine down to get a bolt head to clear the frame, it was way up there.
What about reversing the taper on a more conventional arm? You could run the joint in on the top and save some space.

 

[BadDog]

Yeah, that sounds about right, but I had no idea where that one came from. I thought about using the 4" arm from the article, but I wanted to see if I couldn't tuck it in a little tighter, sorta like the one on my truggy which clears by about 1/8" or so. If nothing turns up here, I'll just get the 4" drop arm, I don't have time for the junkyard route anymore...

 

[MTMike]

I don't think you're supposed to use a chevy 2wd pitman arm for that very reason. My WFO kit that came is one for an 80's Jeep.

 

[BadDog]

Stephen: The Ford arm is possibly the same one I run on my truggy. It is generally found on 80s Ford full size vans, but has a tiny hole. Mine on the truggy was reamed out, but time is too short these days to fool with looking for it, pulling it, and then trying to find someone to ream it to fit. I was hoping to find a "bolt on" application that fit tighter. Going from the top would compound other problems with clearance of the cross member and would be more work/cost than my interest level in the K5 would justify.

 

[CyberSniper]

In order to not need to ream out the hole you need a pitman arm from a 70s Ford or full size Jeep. I don't know if stock ones fit or not.

In the 80s Ford went to a universal steering box. It is found in all the vans/rangers/fullsizes. They also all got the same pitman arm... but the hole is much smaller. I know the F150 arm doesn't have enough drop to allow the nut on the TRE to clear the frame. The F250/F350 pitman arm has another 1/2" drop and might barely clear the frame.

I lost interest in researching it due to the fact that the junkyard owner crushed everything he had. I ended up buying a Superlift #1104 just like everybody else. And like you said, it drops too much.

 

[BadDog]

Thanks for the info on the 70s Ford F250+, I'll check it out if I find one.

Here is a pic of that pitman arm demonstrating what I'm trying to avoid...

 

[CyberSniper]

Yeah, I have the same problem. My front springs are moved far enough forward that the joint on the pitman arm sit right between the nuts on the U-bolts. I have a bumpstop dropped down so it contacts the plate 1" before the pitman arm gets stuck between the nuts on the U-bolts. The only problem is if I get a stick stuck on top of the spring plate while turning to the right (body rolls over and hits the bumpstop) it will lock the steering in place and my life will pass before my eyes as I drive into oncoming traffic. Yeap, that was a close call.

I'm still looking for lifted 56" springs. The nice thing about the whole setup... like 3.5" of lift with a drop pitman arm is that my straight draglink is damn near flat.

 

[TruckNutzDude]

Back to the top... has anyone found a part number that works? I just swapped to 52" springs up front with a zero rate moving the axle 1.5" foreward and my TRE is right over the spring plate with maybe 2" of clearance before contact. I've got the superlift #1104 now and I'd like something that tucks up higher to the frame. Any help would be appreciated!!!

 

[BadDog]

I wound up getting one from another Ford van. No idea the part number...

 

[sled_dog]

any other input? I need a pitman arm for my S10, want the samething Russ has going(flat arm) but would rather avoid reaming the hole out. The way my suspension is I NEED a flat arm, may even want to bend it with a slight up slope.

 

[beater74]

astro van arm is flat but yer gonna have to reem it.

 

[sled_dog]

astro van arm is flat but yer gonna have to reem it.

I have an Astro box with the arm, I realize I could use it with reaming, and likely will end up doing so, but just wondering if there is something I could go pull one quick and go with that.

 

[BadDog]

Wonder of wonders, this blasted wireless at the hotel is working for the moment...

The Ford van arm is not quite flat, but very near, you might be able to flip it and there is definitely enough meat to ream it from the back. I wish I had a number for you, but I don’t. Seems like it was on CK5 where I took part in a rather detailed discussion of that arm with pictures and detailed description posted, but I can’t find it now…

BTW, the reamer is cheap on ebay from “XKUT”.

 

[MEK5]

Heres a couple pictures of the Ford van arm in question,I believe they were used in the mid 70s vans.

 

[neverendingproject]

CanI ask why you think the superlift 1104 arm wont clear? I clears pretty good on mine. I will never have any problems even when im flexed.