All 1989-1991 trucks have the 4x4 hump?
Martin
Martin
CK5
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2wd to 4x4 swap threads?
- Thread starter 82355
- Start date
mckustomfab
1/2 ton status
Howdiy did a pretty good job with his suburban.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236407
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236407
Who says and why won't the B52s bolt up to the frame on a 2wd???? It's what I used on my truck, drilled some holes and bolted them on. I used the shackle hanger from DIY4X as well, heavy duty and simple. Have to notch the frame for room for the shackle, but not hard to do. Biggest pain I had was the 4wd crossmember, as a stock one won't fit. I had plans of going with a Cummins, so used TDC crossmember and modifying the 2wd mounts. Go with a divorced case, that way no need to mess with the current tranny/floor/mount. Dodge div. 205 crossmember is the best way, frames widths are the same.
For the B52 question these are pictures I borrowed from another member here, 54inches. They show the differences in mounting holes with white spray paint.
From what I remember looking at those pictures, I was able to make the existing bottom 2 holes work with a little reaming. The rest were drilled as new holes.
b454rat mentioned notching the frame for the rear shackle on the front springs, I would like to see pictures of that. I think this might be a better way to go rather than dropping the front hangers/B52's like I did. I can't say I've had a problem with them tho.
I didn't like the idea of leaving the B52's unmodified and dropping the rear hanger far enough to clear the frame which then requires using shims to fix the caster angle. I felt like having the springs at such an angle would make them not cycle properly and affect the suspension performance. This is all conjecture tho, I didn't do any research on the truth of it. However if you look at a factory setup the springs are basically level from eye to eye.
I fabbed my own crossmember for the trans. The engine crossmember was a modified ORD unit. In hindsight I think it would have been better to fab the engine crossmember from scratch as well.
It was my understanding that the 2wd hump only clears the 4x4 stuff if it was a standard transmission but I don't know if that changes for different years of the trucks. I have an '89 that was a standard transmission equipped truck.
The biggest mistake I made was the front axle location in regards to front to back. I still like the template I made for locating the spot to drill the hole for the thru-the-frame hanger.
The problem was I tried to measure off the steering box to figure out where the front eye bolt should be and it wasn't right. I ended up with the axle at least 2" further forward than factory. I had to re-drill the spring perches to move the axle back 1". A better method needs to be used for locating the axle front to back. It sucks I messed that up because using the B52's, I had holes to play with and I could have put it where it needed to be.
Another thing I was completely naive about before starting was that the rear spring hangers on the 2wd are about 3" shorter than 4wd. Even with lift springs in the rear, I ended up with huge blocks to level the truck. Best scenario would be to locate 4wd hangers unless there's not going to be much suspension lift on this truck.
I have 4" lift springs in the front plus I had to drop the front hanger 3" to level the springs. I'm right around 6" of net lift in the front. I the rear with the 2wd drive hangers I have 4" lift springs and 5.5" lift blocks!
That's all I can think of now.
From what I remember looking at those pictures, I was able to make the existing bottom 2 holes work with a little reaming. The rest were drilled as new holes.
b454rat mentioned notching the frame for the rear shackle on the front springs, I would like to see pictures of that. I think this might be a better way to go rather than dropping the front hangers/B52's like I did. I can't say I've had a problem with them tho.
I didn't like the idea of leaving the B52's unmodified and dropping the rear hanger far enough to clear the frame which then requires using shims to fix the caster angle. I felt like having the springs at such an angle would make them not cycle properly and affect the suspension performance. This is all conjecture tho, I didn't do any research on the truth of it. However if you look at a factory setup the springs are basically level from eye to eye.
I fabbed my own crossmember for the trans. The engine crossmember was a modified ORD unit. In hindsight I think it would have been better to fab the engine crossmember from scratch as well.
It was my understanding that the 2wd hump only clears the 4x4 stuff if it was a standard transmission but I don't know if that changes for different years of the trucks. I have an '89 that was a standard transmission equipped truck.
The biggest mistake I made was the front axle location in regards to front to back. I still like the template I made for locating the spot to drill the hole for the thru-the-frame hanger.
The problem was I tried to measure off the steering box to figure out where the front eye bolt should be and it wasn't right. I ended up with the axle at least 2" further forward than factory. I had to re-drill the spring perches to move the axle back 1". A better method needs to be used for locating the axle front to back. It sucks I messed that up because using the B52's, I had holes to play with and I could have put it where it needed to be.
Another thing I was completely naive about before starting was that the rear spring hangers on the 2wd are about 3" shorter than 4wd. Even with lift springs in the rear, I ended up with huge blocks to level the truck. Best scenario would be to locate 4wd hangers unless there's not going to be much suspension lift on this truck.
I have 4" lift springs in the front plus I had to drop the front hanger 3" to level the springs. I'm right around 6" of net lift in the front. I the rear with the 2wd drive hangers I have 4" lift springs and 5.5" lift blocks!
That's all I can think of now.
From a 4 wheelin' aspect, I'm actually glad I ended up with more lift than I planned. I haven't had an issue with break over angle and I think this is due the 6" lift. I would have dragged the middle of the truck more if the lift were shorter.
mckustomfab
1/2 ton status
My 1991 was a factory auto and it had the taller trans tunnel. I think (not 100%) that the 89-91's all have the taller tunnel.
Mine was an 89 2wd and didn't have the tall hump.....
mckustomfab
1/2 ton status
. Was yours a 1pc floor pan?
meatwagon83
Registered Member
this is going to happen to mine this summer!
holy huge picture!! build thread to come shortly
holy huge picture!! build thread to come shortly
meatwagon83
Registered Member
working on it!
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
I was always confused with the hump thing as well. I ended up cutting one out of a spare truck just in case.
I ended up NOT needing it, I had plenty of room putting the 205 in.
My truck is an 88 and has the full low pan, Not bolt on.
One thing that convinced me to build a new engine xmember was those huge holes behind the upper A arm brackets. I even had an ORD one ready to go but jut couldn't get over those holes. Good thread, lots of helpful info.
