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3/4 ton Swap?

The backing plate, as in the sheet metal cover, isn't available as far as I know. Many, ourselves included, just ditch them from the beginning.
 
What year of rig are you swapping these axles into? If it is a newer model, it is a Precision number 447. Any decent parts store can cross that.

Martin
 
454Sub said:
<snip> Also, easy non dirty way of checking rear end ratio is instead of pulling the cover and counting teeth, you grab the yoke, and turn it over one full rotation and count how many times the tire rotates, if it goes over 3 and 3/4 times, its a 3.73, if it spins 5 and some change, its a 5.13. Its not exactly a fool proof way, but it gets you in the ballpark. the difference between 4.10s and 4.56s is not alot, but it is noticeable if you look closely
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xenomarine said:
i think you've got that backwards - but it could be the coffee talking. turn the yoke until the hubs/tires go one full rotation. count the yoke revs while you do this - that's your approximate gear ratio.
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also, if this is an open carrier, when you turn 1 wheel, then other may rotate the opposite way, you need to block one wheel, and then your rotation count will only be half, so you need to either multiply your result by 2, or count the number of yoke rotations for 2 full rotations of the wheel.
 
When i turn the Yoke on the 14 bolt, only one drum spins... i don't know what is wrong with the other one. any suggestions? I cant get it to spin by hand either, any ideas on why it might be stuck?
 
Did you pull the inspection cover? It could be something wrong in the differential. Or it could just be a seized brake drum. When was the last time this axle was actually in use?

Martin
 
Brakes could be rusted or wheel bearings seized. Try hitting the drum lightly around the outside all around end see if rust falls out. If it doesn't spin you're gonna have to pry it off after taking the spindle nuts off.
 
ok, so i decided to go ahead and do a disc brake swap while i have the axles out. i have a couple of quetions. Im probably going to use either the diy4x or ruff stuff brackets, im going to use the gm 3/4 ton calipers. does it matter if the truck was 2wd or 4wd? also if i use these, i cant have an e-brake right? Does it matter if i dont have an e-brake?
Thanks in advance.
 
k5blazinredneck said:
ok, so i decided to go ahead and do a disc brake swap while i have the axles out. i have a couple of quetions. Im probably going to use either the diy4x or ruff stuff brackets, im going to use the gm 3/4 ton calipers. does it matter if the truck was 2wd or 4wd? also if i use these, i cant have an e-brake right? Does it matter if i dont have an e-brake?
Thanks in advance.
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Any 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers should work for your model truck. As far as e-brake, you should research your states laws to see if you need an E-Brake. If you do need it... You have a few options.

Eldorado calipers/TSM
http://www.tsmmfg.com/3120.htm

or t-case e-brake.
http://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html

Addition: oh yea not to mention line lock you could use as an e-brake too.

Had these links saved on phone.
http://www.ipsco.org/Custom Services/Parking Brake.htm
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/120-2374/10002/-1?CT=999
 
While im doing the disc swap im gonna replace the wheel studs. what size do i need to buy for the 14bff. and what size for the front 3/4 ton 10 bolt for later?
 
k5blazinredneck said:
While im doing the disc swap im gonna replace the wheel studs. what size do i need to buy for the 14bff. and what size for the front 3/4 ton 10 bolt for later?
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The 10 bolt and 14 should be the same size. I have the same axles on my 3/4 ton truck that you have. They should be 9/16".
 
Ok, so here is the assumed list of all that i need to complete this swap.. if i am missing something please feel free to let me know.
[]-new u-bolts
[]-new brake lines front and rear
[x]-napa 447 conversion joint
[x]-ruff stuff disc brake brackets
[x]-rotors, calipers, brake pads for rear disc conversion
[]-new rotors and calipers for front, my dad says we can tune the rotors down and rebuild the calipers but idk yet.
[]-off road design heavy duty tie rod
[]-4 diy4x ez inch's and extended cross-tied shackles
[]-diy4x 14 bolt diff cover
 
Are you lifting it any more while doing this swap? (besides the 1" zero rates) If not, you don't really need to replace the front brake hoses. To tell the truth, you don't even need to mess with the front calipers. 1/2 ton and 3/4 tons use the same calipers (to a point). You can just hang the calipers off to the side when you pull the half ton axle out and then reinstall them after you roll the 3/4 ton axle under. Don't even have to bleed the front brakes then.

The only reason not to do it that way, is because you are doing rear discs. You can order the bigger 3/4 ton front calipers, and install them on the front. Then move your front calipers to the rear. You want smaller brakes on the rear of the vehicle.

As for rebuilding calipers, don't waste your time. Remans are $15 a piece.

When you mention having the rotors, calipers, and brakes pad for the rear disc conversion, do you also have the caliper pins and the banjo bolts?

Martin
 
I'm not lifting it any more besides the zero rates and extended shackles, but i have a 4" suspension lift already and still have stock brake lines so i need new ones anyway. I'm just going to get new calipers and tune down the rotors for the front. and i have the caliper pins but no banjo bolts yet, I'm getting them soon though.
 
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