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3 to 4 build for the family : IT'S ALIVE and on the road having FUN !

dash gutted in 30 min . ready for the hydro clutch pedal setup in the am . and my firewall has 3 dimples so i know were to pop it .

and he told me to make this stretch for the extra wiring we need :rotfl:.

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just a hair bit done today .

pedal assembly installed / hydroboost bolted up / clutch master combo bolted up just need line and bleed out .
removed old military radio mount bracket from the dash frame 17 spot welds with a spot weld cutter bit .
stick shift column swapped in at the same time as pedal unit .
found the 3 dimples in the firewall for the hydro clutch threw all the undercoat goo from the factory .
found some lazy fat A$$ snack spoon under the dash on top of the heater box .
started figuring out the mix-match & mixed up & swapped in wiring system so i can get the blazer to work and have correct lights .

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so had to make some cash this week and i pushed this out of the shop .

got her back in last night and worked on the exhaust system today from the old 6.2 diesel . swapped in classic chambered exhaust mufflers
then we cut and stretched the right side down pipe from the 45*up got cut off then a 18" stretch to line up with the header ball-socket joint.
next was he driver side that was stupid easy few feet of stright pipe and 1 chunk of 2x45* to kick it up to stay above the frame rail bottom lip .
the whole system is hung on stock hangers and clamps . i just reused the pipes with a few tweeks .
looks like the 90* out tail pipes might work and not hit the springs . if not we can fix this . the left already needs a tweek . but its late tha'ts a monday job .

for now we are using what we have to see if it all works . then if it rusts out bad we will have a system made to match the working setup .

right side pics then left side and the center for mufflers and whats left over .

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been busy on few other things then i got sick as a dead dog and didnt do much for almost a week but now i got good drugs and felling better . sucks having a sinus head bug . no energy at all .

well got the drive shaft measured and dropped off and chopped 2" out for this blazer combo . just need to set pinion 1* down from center and burn the perches to the axle tubes . then burn the shock mounts on .

ford front 99-15 f250-f350 super duty 1350 c/v shaft . then a flange from jesse at H.A.D for later upgrade to driveline e-brake .

next will be the new 5/8" 18,000lb d-rings for the front bumper .

were getting closer and the list shorter . got parts on order for the front axle swap over job and hydro clutch line to use and make fit the newer 92 style ext slave combo .

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hard day starting work . felt zero power this morning . the drugs are kicking in and helping bust up the sinus bug i got thats for sure .

but i did get some stuff done today . went and got me a laser level today for 20.00 and this helped me square the front axle to the back .
then i verified the perches were still spaced correctly from the measurements i took before i cut the old ones off . i just added 1" per side to go from k30 to k5 spring spec width .
next i used my digital angle finder on the rear drive shaft tube to see i had 18.2* tube angle . so i took this and set the pinion at 17* pinion up to get 1*less so when under power it points up .
also set and burned in the shock mounts after the spring perches . took the spacing spec from the old 10bolt axle off the perch side . then set them about level with the tube . still have a few inches of length left over at full drop in the shop on the lift . should work good for what he has planed for this blazer .
also ordered some new bolts for the HD diff covers he has for the axles . the stockers are a little short and rusty . going to try header bolts . help get in there better with the 7/16" hex for a socket and 1" long thread will be perfect for full reach but not bottom out .
still need to swap the left rear brake guts / HD diff cover / possible fluid swap / brake hose hook up and 2 lines for the rear axle then its bacily done back there .
next is the front 60 swap for a better axle over the current high mile whipped axle with worn out gears . also freshen up the king pins at the same time / new HD shock mounts and ford towers .
looking like its going to require a long slip front drive shaft for the front . now sure how we will do that just yet . maybe another flange and ford super duty shaft and long spline conversion slip kit and have the local shop swap it in place .

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ruff stuff diff cover on the back now . i think the front ( already on ) was a diy4x unit maybe been almost 15 years since install i forgot . maybe the owner will recall ? ? ? @manchildau65

edit: cleaning up the front cover its not like the ones for sale on diy4x . so i guess by comparing it to my extra ruff stuff cover its one of his on the 60 . no big deal as there both super beefy strong .

guts looked good and clean . magnet had a lot of factory casting leftover junk on it so i swapped in a new clean one .

left rear brake day today . this side was about on the rivets unlike the right rear was gone .

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Yes, DIY cover from about 10yrs ago when cross over steering, lunch box locker, and HD tie rod installed.

These are old axles by age but they're freshening up to be like new!

@sweetk30 - you're a wizard with 1 ton axles, thank you for the help! Definitely higher safety confidence for a family friendly rig
 
well today was the day of the hydro clutch . . . even with a helper and 30 min time we could get flow but no pressure and function or pedal hard fell . so the master was parts store replacment back in sep/2012 and the truck has sat a lot over the years so figure try a new master for the clutch . had full clutch in 10 min by my self with the new master installed and 50 pumps in a row of the clutch gave full pedal hard and fell . so once she is running it will be time to check the clutch system but should be good otherwise .NOTE : the clutch line is for 85-91 square body . but installed backwards and the long side of the hard line is re-bent to go over the back side of the engine to line up with the 92-95 style pass side slave for the nv4500 . i flared a bubble flare on the line from the slave with a spare 1/4" line m12 bubble flare nut from the old dead hose . then i used a bubble flare union from the parts store . this lets us service the system with all stock parts and min amount of mods to fit .

i stopped at the local gas station / supply place and scored some 90-oct NON-ethonal fuel for 3.04 gal . i got 10 gal worth and then when i was at the parts store for the clutch master swap out i got a can of VP RACING FUELS madditive octanium fuel booster for another 8 oct jump on 10 gal tank of fuel . figure give this old girl some fresh new prem gas with a kick .

also got a new k30 master cylinder for the 1ton brakes on the axles . then a shock boot for the front drive shaft as the stock seal unit was junk and no one had new in town and had to order and all in would be almost 20 bucks . 1 new shock boot and 2 zip ties in the bag was 5.35 out the door . i got black as its not the 80's show blazer .

the other day he got me a pair of new battery's for the blazer . just need to whip up a few batt trays and bolt them in and wire up a few things then time for fire off test .

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today was the tear down of his original 1st gm dana 60 . the gears had some nasty damage to the face of the teeth and i found another gm 60 with open/4.56 and nice gears cheeperthan buying gears / install kit and labor so this is why we are stripping this one down .

first one ever i had to use a air hammer to pop the axle from the housing . found the short side tube PACKED FULL of mud and rust holding the shaft in the tube . otherwise she come down to the housing easy . need to work at the gear/carrier as the bearings have good pre-load still . king pins popped loose real easy with the correct tools and found the inner "C"'s both have good threads still . this housing will make someone a good builder axle housing .

in the am i will drop this on a pallet and roll it outside . then i have the other axle ready to hang under the blazer and tear it down to swap in his lock-right locker i just pulled out and re-fresh the rest of the axle and get it ready for service .

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well looking over the new axle it must have had a few big pot holes or something . the driver side perch was semi collapsed . seems to be a problem on dana 60 fronts . guys like kirt at DIY4X click the drop down selection box and pic the single dana 60 front unit . i needed one for this now so i whipped up one with 2.5x2.5 square tube 3/16" thick and capped the ends off . same thickness as stock un-boxed unit so we should be good . you cant use the std replacement units cause there to short to match the high mount pad on the diff over on the pass side of the axle .

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well the old perch driverside to cast in perch pass side was almost 4* off from the same plane of surface side to side . the shock mounts were the same but 3* off from each other .

when i was done i had all within 0.2* with my digital angle finder . got them burned in real good withthe big lincoln power mig 216 buzz box .

time to toss her up and in the blazer and strip it down and clean / check / replace / grease / seal / install the lock-right locker and be done with the old girl .

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screw it back out of the truck to clean it out better and able to pop the carrier out better more under control . also makes driving in the lower king pin bearing & race & seal much faster with less hassle .

this military take out axle must have made a few trips in the sand . the tubes were 1/2 full of sand and gear oil from the leaky seals. i had to get a 2" wire brush ( 2 1/4" would be better ) and weld it to a 3/8" rod and power scrub the tubes out . even after using my scraper tool for the tubes they were nasty .

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oh i have the pile of crap yukon version i got a few years ago . i was able to tweek it / work it / use different combo of parts and make it work .

what brand is your's ? @obijuank5
 
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