3 to 4 build for the family : IT'S ALIVE and on the road having FUN !

[sweetk30]

well got some more done tonight after dinner and the massive housing clean up from the left over military sand storm in the tubes . .

new update for seals spicer # 52148 seals the axle to the inner seal and spins on its own part NOT the shaft body .
new lower king pin dust / grease cap's race and ready for bearing and seal in the am . note : a little trick i like to do from all the time i see water mix in the bearing i remove is thin layer of rtv on the tin cap to seal to the inner C body then pop the race in like normal . the design of this can let water leak down in from the top so i seal it up with rtv .
install his lock-right locker in the open diff and the diff can set back in after i clean the pinion up from all the gunky crap that got in when dis-assembled . i did pull it before massive clean job tho .
next will be finish out the knuckles and shafts and spindles and hubs . then his DIY4X front cover install on this housing from the old housing .

yes i take way to long to do a job but i like the job DONE 1 time . and up here in the rust belt stuff takes a lot longer to do most of the time on these old parts .

 

[manchildau65]

wow man torn way down for just a simple swap over i see. if it needed it then it needed it for sure by the looks of some of the pics your posting. i have been super busy with work and other stuff but i sure need to get out and catch up and have a MAN day and turn some wrenches with you on my rig for sure. keep it up and looking good buddy nice job.

 

[sweetk30]

cleaning some parts from old axle will be making a P.S.A. post in the garage soon about it .

but i got the axle back under and then took and installed the king pins with red lock tight and the BIG torque wrench from snap-on 3/4" drive and the allen driver for the king pins . WOW thats a lot to pull on @ 600ft-lb spec max . you need to be watch full not to rock a vehicle off the lift doing this .

to show how big the wrench is its in the king pin and roll of yellow tap hanging on the end .

 

[manchildau65]

Another good reason to trim the fender - to more easily fit that monster torque wrench in!

 

[sweetk30]

naa just a bigger lift kit is all .

 

[sweetk30]

found this tearing down the original 60 front from old truck that gave up its drive-line for the blazer build .

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/p-s-a-check-your-parts-every-so-often.337057/#post-3982731

 

[sweetk30]

sure do love this super slick tool . back when longfield sold his own stuff you could get these . threads on the spindle with the locking hub parts all out of the way and lets you pack and grease the spindle bearing inside and also full of grease good luck getting as much water in if the seal is weak on the spindle to axle . i have seen guys take a old spindle nut and length of tube and weld them together and cap the end and add a zerk .

 

[sweetk30]

she is on wheels again and the hubs have a LOT of good quality wheel bearing grease in them . just need to finish up a few tiny details and the axle is done .

 

[sweetk30]

few more 60 pics from the other day i forgot .

wheel bearings have lots of fresh grease now .
the richmond gear lock-right locker installed from old axle . no sign's of any damage and he had popped a stub shaft on 38x12.50 swampers with it . shows how strong they are if your thinking of one for a 60 .

 

[sweetk30]

grill / nose job day .

had a few options to pic from . @manchildau65 picked a combo of the 3 . stock style from old k30 we parted to make this / black like military/cop blazer it was and white stripe in the middle to break up the all satin black .

all the bright trim was painted as it was military and cop blazer . but i didnt like the white on white fender area so i blacked it out . then i scuffed and painted the grill and bezels in krylon paint as it hardens more than rustoleum and can be painted over later with auto paint if he wants to change it later on .

i think its a good mix of black and white to keep it modern and classic fell . since its a civilian grill and aftermarket there is no mold in for the bowtie .

 

[sweetk30]

little inside cab work today cleaning up the triple stick shifter setup . had to get creative on the boots . moved the ord twin stick back a total of 2.5" over the stock ord 1 -1/8" spacing this let me center the levers up/down in the N-position and be center in the stock 208 shifter hole . made a new spacer and swapped the bolts for longer and shortened the linkage . then i had a single lever boot from my doubler triple stick i had yet to install so i used it for mock up and its tight but it will work so i found a boot online listed for a dana 20 in jeep cj stuff or I.H. scout stuff for 27.50 shipped just like this one . the stock NV4500 boot from the gm400 trucks is way to big for this combo and also the SM465 boot even tho its smaller is to big .

pic if you can even see the new spacer for the twin stick pivot point mount . mock up of boots . and install about ready tested in cab .

 

[sweetk30]

@manchildau65 stopped in today and we hot wired the old girl and she fired right off . Then I showed him how to bench bleed a new master we got for a 80's k30 to match the 1ton axles . Then he removed the old k5 1/2ton master and installed the new and we had the system bleed out good in 10min .

Sure hope in a weekish she will be test drive ready . Maybe a little of this action

 

[sweetk30]

well i got a bunch done today until i run out of energy and parts .
grill emblem painted and installed .
inner fenders installed and m-1009 battery trays bolted in .
2 new battery's set on tray's need hold downs yet .
made the power wires all from the old m-1009 stuff and a few extra from his old k-30 .
used the junction bar's for hot and ground feeds .
secured a lot of the big wiring down and still need to do a few more yet .
front drive shaft c/v head ground the stops just a hair and got the extra droop i needed and installed the shaft for good now .
sure there is more i forgot yet but oh well .

 

[sweetk30]

so the parts store was out of lugs today but got me a box for the am . i then went to the junk yard and scored a pig tail for the alt to wire it up . also got a nice loooong neg batt wire from a 95 and older g-van to finish out the battery wiring combo . i stopped and got a 1" crimp in pex valve for the 3/4 " heater core hose so we can shut off the flow in summer and also i needed a few extra inches to clean under the 2nd military battery tray and it was new hose or add in valve for the same price point . next i grabbed some 1/4" threaded rod for the battery hold down brackets as its the same size the military spec was already in the try's . i then whipped up a pair of beefy hold down brackets .

 

[sweetk30]

hold downs in and secure .
rest of the battery cables done and secured . even a 2ga from neg- batt to the core support ground bolt .
made the big 2ga hot from the alt to the same stud as the battery feed in .
labeled the buss bar covers so no mix up on who is who even with colors and labels .
labeled all the big wires at the buss bar for hots and the hot for the winch on the front batt so you know who is who .
installing the MSD under the dash above the glove box and then clean up the stock engine bay wiring harness .
even found a good beefy alt pos post cover . used a old factory side post batt end wire cover and sleeve . worked real good .
even was thinking of dropping in the 3,000 rpm chip but i didnt . . . . i did a 5,600 chip tho as he wanted 5,500 but its even splits not odd .
i secured the rear power wire with a zip tie off the buss bar for now so we dont have a live end back there . and i tapped off the end back there so even if it gets power its covered .
re-used the military batt terminal rubber boots on the 2 battery's and a zip tie on each choked them just right on the cables .

 

[sweetk30]

i cleaned up the windshield tonight so good the cracks removed them self . . . . what a p.i.t.a to pop this one out . glass guy told me that late 70's up are noted in the system to have light bead of urethane to help hold them in place . also face shot of the grill and new black bowtie .

 

[sweetk30]

so today was half wasted work wise with the shop lunch date with the blazer owner and i had to run for some parts . but i sure did get a bunch banged out anyways .
rear lights checked .
rear tail and turn bulbs d.o.a 3 out of 4 elements burnt . last owner said military wiring was all goofy . no it wasn't just change the dam bulbs you dumb a$$ blown units don't light up .
upgraded stock backups to the ones i have listed in the garage led thread .
put new reg replacements in the rest for a all good rear until i went to test them and found a hard short on the yellow - left rear turn/brake . traced it down to a pinched wire from the tail gate hinge to body .
rear wires fixed and all good now .
wired in the round 7 trailer plug so its good for now until he gets a 2" hitch and brake controller unit .
jumped to the front end and tested all them and we are good no real problems i could find .
installed new cheepy amazon special 5"x7" led upgrade lights almost the same design as the original j.w. speaker style . friend has these on the road every day & loves them so we are running them in this .
still need to adjust them and do the white shop door test for real proof .
installed the electric fan switch sender and pigtail in the intake for the electric fan we will be doing . its on at 212 *f so with the 195* t-stat i think it will be good . time will tell with the 4 core rad he has in it .
sure i forgot a few items oh well .

 

[sweetk30]

gave the old girl here first real check over for all things tight / secure / clipped in / what ever look over today .
feed the ramsey 12k worm gear winch with oil today . that was a loooooooooong job for super slow fill the way the fill plugs are placed . right over the top of the gears .
about done with engine bay wires . opened up the engine harness today and cleaned it up a little and re-routed a few wires to line up with the new layout of stuff .
got the windshield frame gasket cleaned up and all vacuumed out from any shards of old glass from when i pulled the old busted windshield . new one is friday am .
door lock set swapped out to the new set he had for me to put in left over from the old truck .

still need to do list :
front ford shock towers and shock install .
under dash wires and clean up .
choke cable install .
3 new gauges mount in the pod and put on the dash .
install winch cable and chunk of plastic nylon i got for a winch cable block stop . see how well it works . left over machine shop scrap chunk .
electric cooling fan setup .
relay for electric fuel pump .
sure there is a few other things but we will get to them .

 

[sweetk30]

well today started with a phone call at 7:14am from the glass guy .......... hey the windshield in the truck out here is NOT broken why are we replacing it ? ? ? ......... i told hm read his work order info as you did NOT call before you come out with a eta and i figured at-least 8am before the call , and the repair order shows K5 BLAZER . . . . o.k. man i will put the lock strip back in this truck and wait for you to come out . so i rush to get out of bed as i sleep till 8:00-8:30am and go to bed around 12 midnight to 1am every day left over from towing days schedule . i let him in the shop to check the blazer over to install . i told him its all clean / vaced out / wiped down with rubbing alcohol last night . he said wow nice job should be easy . he popped it in and done i said why is it NOT glued in like the original was and the boss said it needed to be and he said ahh i don't do that . i said o.k. i have seen them both ways no biggy . then he doesn't use the lock strip connector tab and said you don't need that its fine ..... what ever dood just be done and go . well around 2hr later i had to go to town and i opened up my truck and the GPS & DASH CAM were both hanging down as he didn't tell me he popped them off and even busted the dash cam mount in 3 pieces looked it over and my lock strip tab was gone and the strip was half out in a spot . so i called and talked with the boss and said all this to him plus the van he is driving is puking ATF all over my driveway bad . he asked how much to fix the problems and i said 20 buck for a roll of 3m sticky for the gps and 18.50 for the mount . he rounded it up and took 50 bucks off and said no problem sorry it happened the guy is on a real short lead these days and about out the door .

well now the story of the windshield is out time for the good info .

decided to not use the mystery cab harness under the dash and fuse box as i couldn't tell what exactly year / model it was from and missing wires i needed . so i swapped it with the old k30 trucks harness .
finished up the engine harness and installed that unit and hooked it up .
tested the blazers light and all good even back-up worked
started the finer point under the dash of the install and hook up of the MSD box and few other ITEMS we wont chat about on line for vehicle security .
test rolled the engine with the key and the clutch safety switch works with the relay i used on it and also the momentary push button bypass switch that also can feed the relay to let it crank .
got half the carb choke cable installed when doing the dash wire's layout .

should be ready to fire off in the saturday by lunch time at the latest and maybe a round the block road test ? ? ?

still need front shocks butthats just 6 holes and bolt on .
and electric fan mount and relay .

 

[manchildau65]

just got a text from @sweetk30 IT'S ALIVE

he said full choke / 2 pumps and held the clutch bypass button and bump the key she was running . now he just has to finish the dash re-assemble and install the 3 gauges for oil psi / tach / water temp . hook up the alt key hot wire and electric fan hookup and road test around the block . still need the front shocks yet but its there on the home stretch . i know its not fun doing wiring and figuring out all the systems to play with each other but he has done a great job so far on the build .