Yep.
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Back in the barn, the CUCV plugs were all wet, and several of them were oily. Picture for future reference (in case I ever care which cylinders are bathed in oil):
Put the Duraterms in and soldered up 8 new connectors. For some reason I only had 7 Duraterms instead of 8, so I wound up reusing the one good 13G plug. Much easier to put a narrow spade in a wide socket than a wide spade in a narrow socket.
I remember swiping one of the Duraterms for the Suburban, but I don't remember why I ran out of 60G plugs over there.
Plugs installed, I turned my attention to the distribution side of things. Last time I had wired up the relay to flip when the button is pushed (
), but it still didn't work. This time I confirmed there is no continuity between the relay lugs when activated. So I will be either taking it apart for cleaning or simply replacing it. So the new plugs still don't work yet. Combine that with a flywheel that doesn't work yet, and the truck is still stranded. For now.
Put the Duraterms in and soldered up 8 new connectors. For some reason I only had 7 Duraterms instead of 8, so I wound up reusing the one good 13G plug. Much easier to put a narrow spade in a wide socket than a wide spade in a narrow socket.
I remember swiping one of the Duraterms for the Suburban, but I don't remember why I ran out of 60G plugs over there.
Plugs installed, I turned my attention to the distribution side of things. Last time I had wired up the relay to flip when the button is pushed (
), but it still didn't work. This time I confirmed there is no continuity between the relay lugs when activated. So I will be either taking it apart for cleaning or simply replacing it. So the new plugs still don't work yet. Combine that with a flywheel that doesn't work yet, and the truck is still stranded. For now.
Ok, well this particular CUCV is now one step closer to being a civilian model.
It is puzzling as to why the flywheel rubs,maybe GM had more than one variety that only works on certain years ?...I doubt the crankshaft would be any different for manual VS automatic..
Have you tried pulling in and out on the flywheel (when bolted up) or the harmonic balancer ?...maybe it has a lot of end play in the crankshaft due to a worn thrust bearing surface..the guy who rebuilds starters for me says he sees quite a few vehicles that had damaged starter noses due to excess end play..
Engines that have a lot of end play can sometimes not make any unusual noises and it shows up as thrown V-belts ,or on manual transmissions,pushing in the clutch will bog down or stall the engine..it can ruin front pumps in automatic transmissions too..hope its not that !..
Have you tried pulling in and out on the flywheel (when bolted up) or the harmonic balancer ?...maybe it has a lot of end play in the crankshaft due to a worn thrust bearing surface..the guy who rebuilds starters for me says he sees quite a few vehicles that had damaged starter noses due to excess end play..
Engines that have a lot of end play can sometimes not make any unusual noises and it shows up as thrown V-belts ,or on manual transmissions,pushing in the clutch will bog down or stall the engine..it can ruin front pumps in automatic transmissions too..hope its not that !..
The other thing I did last night was dig out a couple wheels I picked up very cheaply. They're from a GMT400 truck, but the one on the left is the older style. It should fit hub caps eventually. But that's at least 258 hurdles away from this point.
They have a fair amount of tread left:
And this one has a plug in the tread.
Not sure why, but I couldn't resist that one.
One of my roller wheels has been looking sad lately, so I wanted to install a rounder tire. It's not completely flat, but it's low enough that I wouldn't wanna drive it anywhere at this point.
New old rubber installed. I think it's an improvement.
I'm 4 nuts and 7 bolts away from actually driving it, but we're making progress.
They have a fair amount of tread left:
And this one has a plug in the tread.
Not sure why, but I couldn't resist that one.
One of my roller wheels has been looking sad lately, so I wanted to install a rounder tire. It's not completely flat, but it's low enough that I wouldn't wanna drive it anywhere at this point.
New old rubber installed. I think it's an improvement.
I'm 4 nuts and 7 bolts away from actually driving it, but we're making progress.
I can feel no end play. Not with the flywheel on, not with the flex plate on, not when it's lonely and plateless. So it's not hitting due to that. And it aligns perfectly with the flex plate.
I think if I could move the starter, I'd be ok. If I could shim out the flywheel, I think its clearance would match that of the flex plate (which would be the correct answer, no?).
So...is flywheel shimming a common thing on these engines? I haven't heard of this issue before now.
Those newer rims 17 "..?...I've been told by local salvage yards 8 lug 17" steelies from 2007 vintage trucks will work on square bodies without rubbing,etc..
All 4 of the tires I took off my pickup were plugged at least once--one had 3 plugs in it,one right on the shoulder of the tread too,but never lost any air..
All 4 of the tires I took off my pickup were plugged at least once--one had 3 plugs in it,one right on the shoulder of the tread too,but never lost any air..
I can feel no end play. Not with the flywheel on, not with the flex plate on, not when it's lonely and plateless. So it's not hitting due to that. And it aligns perfectly with the flex plate.
I think if I could move the starter, I'd be ok. If I could shim out the flywheel, I think its clearance would match that of the flex plate (which would be the correct answer, no?).
So...is flywheel shimming a common thing on these engines? I haven't heard of this issue before now.
I've never had to take a flex plate or flywheel off a 6.2,some engines do have one shim behind the flywheel factory,but I dont know if GM put one on the 6.2's or not..
I would say if it rubs the starter only,and just in one spot not critical to the drive end bushing,that simply filing or grinding a tad off it wouldn't harm it...
Most "mechanics" here would probably just install everything and fire it up,THEN say "hey,whats that grinding noise"?..
..then say "Oh good,its gone" after a few minutes run time..
..and deliver it to the customer without saying boo...
So let's assume I missed the obvious last night, and the starter is the only problem here. What can I do about this? Shimming this starter moves it vertically, I don't see any way to move it further forward. I could try shimming the flywheel, as Rob suggested, but I'm not sure how this is done, nor how much shim I would want. It clearly works with the flex plate, but not with the flywheel. I find that odd.
Thoughts?
Have you figured this out yet!??? It`s driving me nuts!
I would measure the distance of the ring gear to block with the flex plate and the flywheel, make a shim out of the flex plate if you have too. A machine shop should be able to make that easy.
Not sure if that's the best way to do it but its a start. Are you sure that the flywheel is for a 6.2?
This flywheel is off Rene's old 6.2
The truck has been running GMT400 8-lug rims (the really common ones, in the really common silver color). This latest pair of GMT400 rims included one older dog-dish style rim that had been painted silver to match the newer rims. But I am not fooled.
All the rims are 16". I like the stock rims, and have no desire to dump money into aftermarket rims. 16" tires are still common enough that I don't have motivation to go to 17" at this point. I know at some point the rim spacing changes, but I haven't dealt with any trucks that new yet.
And the plug comment was a joke, inspired by my using a glow plug as a depth gauge.
I've never had to take a flex plate or flywheel off a 6.2,some engines do have one shim behind the flywheel factory,but I dont know if GM put one on the 6.2's or not..
I would say if it rubs the starter only,and just in one spot not critical to the drive end bushing,that simply filing or grinding a tad off it wouldn't harm it...
Most "mechanics" here would probably just install everything and fire it up,THEN say "hey,whats that grinding noise"?..
I'm not eager to modify the starter nose, as that modification will then be required for all future starters. And my replacement rate for 6.2 starters is discouraging to say the least.
Have you figured this out yet!??? It`s driving me nuts!
I would measure the distance of the ring gear to block with the flex plate and the flywheel, make a shim out of the flex plate if you have too. A machine shop should be able to make that easy.
No, I haven't figured this out yet. I promise you, it's annoying me more than it's annoying you. :P
I could chop up the flex plate, but I'd rather keep it with the tranny. It will likely get recycled into another project some day. And chopping the flex plate only works if that particular thickness is what I need. I'm more likely to grab some washers and adjust the depth until it's happy.
But either way I think I will need longer bolts. With superly-low-profile heads. Not sure where to find such without taking a normal bolt head to a bench grinder.
2 things are putting this on hold for a few days. The temps dropped below zero again (and yes, that is snow in that tire picture, so I'm not really out of the elements, especially the wind). And I also am gonna replace that rear main seal before I try again with the flywheel. 'Cause evidently my original plan of ignoring it isn't optimal.
Is there no way to reasonably reuse that plug? Or does anyone have a part number for a suitable replacement? Autozone tells me it doesn't exist. But it's gotta be out there... 
Is there no way to reasonably reuse that plug? Or does anyone have a part number for a suitable replacement? Autozone tells me it doesn't exist.
But it's gotta be out there... 
When I went to the ARP parts bin for my flexplate hardware, they had lots of options. Also, I'm pretty sure you can get a full shim for between the crank and flywheel.
David
What is the casting number? I can't quite discern it. From the picture, it looks visually correct. But I can't gauge back spacing.
Both of my flywheels have the #14050525 number. That number corresponds to my purpose. One of them came off of a running 6.2 engine, the other came off of a 6.5. They are much heavier than a sbc flywheel. They appear to have the same back spacing. It just doesn't fit.
As said before, it would probably work if I could modify the starter to fit. But the flex plate fit perfectly, which makes me think that these aren't correctly spaced for my application.
@rbgerrish (if you're still around), do you have any recollections of taking this flywheel off? I assume it fit nicely on your engine. Were there any spacers? Did you have ample clearance to the block? Was your starter different? I'm running out of ideas.
Cool. I will look into that if no other ideas pan out.
I don't have that flywheel anymore...I can't make out the numbers either. Sorry.
Did you end up using that clutch behind the 454 Dean?
Of course I did!
Works perfectly!
