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The Green Grendel

Stop typing and start ordering things!!! :D

Like what? :dunno:

I'm still waiting for my last ordered parts to arrive. The next thing that I order will probably be a U-joint for the axle end of the front driveshaft. I'm waiting on that until I know what to get for the back end (so I can order them together).
 
The truck came with 4.10 gears in the rear and the pinion disassembled. It came with a pinion bearing, seal, and 1410 yoke sitting inside with the disassembled driveshaft. The PO must have known a little bit, as he told me that I'd have to buy a conversion U-joint to make it all fit together.

I'm not yet sold on the merits of the 1410 conversion joint for my purpose. At this point I have stock suspension and approximately stock sized tires. I'm not running out of U-joint clearance (at least, I think I'm not, the truck is in pieces, so it's hard to tell). I value being able to find spare parts in the middle nowhere, as that's where I live and that's where my adventures take place. Stock parts are my friend, when it comes to wearable or breakable things.

So I wouldn't bother with the larger joint unless I had a reason. When I did the suburban conversion I was elated to discover that my 14bff uses the same u-joint, so no conversion was required. This time, I have a small yoke on the pinion (with a stuck bolt), and a 1410 yoke sitting in the truck. I have not measured the size of the small yoke yet.

Is there a good reason for me to use the conversion joint? I'm not planning to redo the driveshaft (if I do the calculus will change), so I'm inclined to keep the stock yoke and convert it to U-bolts (so I don't have the broken bolt problem in the future). Thoughts? Downsides?

Whatever I do, getting that pinion nut off is going to be interesting. :rolleyes:
 
The shifter cable things!!

I haven't even measured the truck yet, so I have no idea how long of a cable to order. And I don't have the case in there at this point, so it would only be a rough guess if I did measure it now. I do know that a standard tranny cable would be a good bit shorter than what I'm looking for.



More importantly, I have a beautiful baby daughter to play with. And I'm building a house. This build is rather low on the priority list. I work on it pretty much when I'm tired of doing the first 2 things. Today is about designing a kitchen layout and turning a terrible room into a wonderful place of food creation. And that's what I have done. The truck hasn't even caught a glimpse of me today. My life must be more complicated than yours. :rolleyes:

I would start a house thread, but I hate maintaining threads enough that it's probably better I don't.
 
I think so, too. He's switching to a D60 with gears that don't start with "3." I'm aiming for 3.73 gears with da diesel (don't like winding it up too high). So I bought what he didn't want and he bought what I didn't want. "Used in dang good condition" was his claim. We'll see what I find when I get it installed and start spinning it, but it looks nice from the outside. I could definitely have sourced a cheaper axle locally, but this one has several shiny parts, and the posi unit is icing on the cake (I probably would not have ever gotten around to locking my front axle). And it came with 2 lifetimes' worth of extra lockouts. :haha:

So I'm happy. Assuming I don't find some hideous deception inside. I haven't actually opened it up yet, it's just sitting and waiting for its chance to shine. :)

You may have not planned on the posi in the front but being from an area that most likely gets more snow and ice than Arkansas I think you'll like it. The truck it came from was posi front Detroit rear with all terrain tires and it did better in snow and ice than any vehicle i have ever driven. Almost impossible to lose control unless I tried.

And if you open it up and find any deceptions be sure to hit me up and I will do my best to make it right:waytogo:
 
You may have not planned on the posi in the front but being from an area that most likely gets more snow and ice than Arkansas I think you'll like it. The truck it came from was posi front Detroit rear with all terrain tires and it did better in snow and ice than any vehicle i have ever driven. Almost impossible to lose control unless I tried.

Cool. I'm looking forward to trying it out. But I gotta have a complete drivetrain first! :haha: I did wind up with a Detroit for the rear of this truck, so I may wind up fairly close to what you had. With a shorter wheelbase.

And, yes, we get more snow than Arkansas does. :haha:

And if you open it up and find any deceptions be sure to hit me up and I will do my best to make it right:waytogo:

I'm not worried. But thanks for standing by the sale. :bow: :thumb:
 
Clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel have arrived. The box was big and heavy (73 lbs).


Now to talk myself into building a kitchen instead of getting distracted with shiny iron things. :thinking:
 
Figured I should probably post this over here from the other thread. It's more relevant over here anyways.

Stupid question, but are you holding the throttle down while you are cranking? I always had pretty good luck starting my old m1009. I would use the block heater, but usually only plugged it in for maybe an hour 1st thing in the morning. But never again for the rest of the day

Yep. My visor tag says to hold the throttle 1/2-way down above 32* and all the way down if it's below 32*F. This is the 6th winter that I've been playing with 6.2 engines in the cold. I'm pretty comfortable starting the other rigs, and this is the first time at any temperature that the CUCV has failed to start. It shouldn't need a block heater at these temps, IMO, as it was cranking at least twice as fast as the Suburban, which did eventually start (neither rig used the block heater. But I haven't yet checked the condition of the glow plugs on this rig.


But the non-functional glow plug relay is a known issue. I first noticed the problem when I pulled it out of the shed and hauled it up to the Northwoods. I have had to manually jump the relay lugs ever since then. So my real goal in dinking around with it it was to troubleshoot the relay and figure out why it isn't working. I was surprised to find that the plugs weren't warming when manually caused the relay to flip. The P.O. added a button isolating the relay from the stock GP controller. So if you push the button it connected to the controller, but most of the time the circuit was dead. This was annoying, as the button could not force the plugs to actually warm. And when they did, it ran the old short cycle that the 9G plugs required. It's really nice to have manual control of the plugs in the other rigs (much faster than waiting for the plugs to warm up on the short cycle). I don't have much motivation to rewire the controller to increase the cycle time. My finger does a fine job.

Prior to the glow plug issue, I've had this truck in storage for 3 years. 2 or 3 times each year I've gone out to start it up, and it has always fired right off. Much more nicely than Big Blue. Even with sitting. I'm quite confident that it will be easy to start when I trace down this electrical issue. The high cranking speed is really neat.
 
Today's update...not so fun.

Pulled the T/C and flex plate off today, and fitted up my new flywheel. Temptation was pretty strong to yank that oil filter off since it's so easy to access right now. :rolleyes:

IMGP1781.JPG

Would not turn. After more careful examination I found it was hitting this boss:

(wrench is pointing to the 2 spots that are now missing paint)

IMGP1783.JPG

IMGP1782.JPG

Flywheel casting is #14050525, which is correct for this engine (and also matches the number on my spare). Everything clears except that boss.


So...what noob mistake did I make this time? My manual of choice (http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/34) does not indicate any special steps here.

Could it have been installed crooked? Clearance was fine everywhere else.

:doah: :thinking: :popcorn:
 
Also, I am clearly leaking oil from both that plug and the rear main seal. Not too surprising, but annoying. Being a 2-piece seal (inserted from the inside), it's not really dependent on the tranny being off. But it does look handy (even if it is on the wrong side of the block).
 
Being a 2-piece seal (inserted from the inside), it's not really dependent on the tranny being off. But it does look handy (even if it is on the wrong side of the block).
Agree. It's much easier with at least the torque converter or clutch out of the way, but still a pain. I'm pretty liberal with the RTV, too.

Is it possible to attach a flywheel in a crooked manner and still have the bolts tighten up properly?
I've only ever assembled for an automatic, and the 700 and 400 flexplate never scraped. I would first think that the mating surfaces aren't making full contact. With the dowel, I don't think you can assemble it backwards.

What is the condition of the flywheel? I use the 1985 factory manual, and will look to see what it says about flexplate and flywheel assembly.

David
 
My 6.2 was manual tranny when I got it. I never had any issues with anything hitting. The only thing I can think of is the dowel hole hanging on the dowel a little?

As for your oil leak, are you saying you have oil weeping from the cam plug/boss above the crank as well as the rear main seal? For the rear main seal now is the time to do it. I put a thin film on the seal halfs where they join, and run a thin film out from the seal area to the oil pan rail area, then bolt up the bearing cap. Without the thin film from the seal area to the oil pan rails you can get oil weeping through, which is a real buzz kill.
 
Agree. It's much easier with at least the torque converter or clutch out of the way, but still a pain. I'm pretty liberal with the RTV, too.


I've only ever assembled for an automatic, and the 700 and 400 flexplate never scraped. I would first think that the mating surfaces aren't making full contact. With the dowel, I don't think you can assemble it backwards.

What is the condition of the flywheel? I use the 1985 factory manual, and will look to see what it says about flexplate and flywheel assembly.

David

It's not backwards in the front-to-back dimension, or the clutch surface would be facing the block. I can't install it in a clocked position due to the dowel.
 
My 6.2 was manual tranny when I got it. I never had any issues with anything hitting. The only thing I can think of is the dowel hole hanging on the dowel a little?

As for your oil leak, are you saying you have oil weeping from the cam plug/boss above the crank as well as the rear main seal? For the rear main seal now is the time to do it. I put a thin film on the seal halfs where they join, and run a thin film out from the seal area to the oil pan rail area, then bolt up the bearing cap. Without the thin film from the seal area to the oil pan rails you can get oil weeping through, which is a real buzz kill.

I have oil leaking from both locations. I am assuming that the plug pops out and is reinstalled with RTV. But I haven't tried anything yet. I was thinking that the rear main seal would be equally painful if I did it now or later. If it's easier to do from the back, I'll add it to the list of things to do now. Guess it's time to yank that filter after all.

I'd hate to think this is turning into a M.A.W. thread...:haha:
 
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