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35 spline stubs or not?
- Thread starter crazy_swede_73
- Start date
35 spline 4340 Yukons. Cheap and hella better than stock 30 spliners.
Comparing supa-bling-bling 300M 30 spline stuff vs. stock 35 spline is a little bit silly. It's like saying a D44 with Superiors + CTMs as stronger than a D60... so the D44 is stronger.
j
Comparing supa-bling-bling 300M 30 spline stuff vs. stock 35 spline is a little bit silly. It's like saying a D44 with Superiors + CTMs as stronger than a D60... so the D44 is stronger.
j
here is a stock 60 stub shaft...
crazy_swede_73
Registered Member
MNorby said:
Was that caused by a lockright and heavy foot or just genuine Big Block Power
crazy_swede_73
Registered Member
koldsimer said:
Thats probably what i'll do, i run 38" TSL Radials and 4.88 gears with a noslip locker in the D60, so i dont think i'll break em that easy...in the summertime its my DD. (that's why i use TSL radials)
What the difference between warn 62672 hubs and warn 38826 hubs is it premium vs regular or?
crazy_swede_73 said:Was that caused by a lockright and heavy foot or just genuine Big Block Power
Yeah, moslty a lot of both. It was a decent climb that was layered with sand and rock.
go 35 spline, id rather have my hubs be the weak point then the stubby breaking and taking my spindle with it. Hubs can be replaced within minutes on the trail, axles on the other hand, skrew that big pita. 30 spline cromos are cool, but your still 30 spline on the end and plus i havent seen a 30 spline chromo yet, but i bet the 35 is thicker all the way down to the splines. Also a big fan of full circle clips for the axle shaft u-joints. my .02
This is not a kit but a little bit from here and a little bit from there.walla2k5 said:I like the idea of the full circle clips. I've seen the "C" clip work their way out and destroy the shaft....
I think NWF only sells Spicer axles and u-jonts.
I picked my axles up seperate from my Drive flanges and my u-joints at a third place.
NorthWestFab
1/2 ton status
We can supply either Spicer or 4340 Shafts with our kit, we also offer inners as well. Our drive flanges use full circle spiral rings. Thanks for the photo ryan.
NorthWestFab said:
Hey guys.
No swet on the photo,
Just wanted to let the people on this board see your CANDAIAN MADE product.
and another satisfied customer.
Looking forward to abusing them this year.........
When I first installed my front D60 I decided to stay with the stock 30-spline stubs to save money.......after a couple years I wish I would have spent the dollars to get 35-spline stuff. I've broken two 30-spline stubs and found a 3rd one twisted at the splines when I recently installed the 35-spline stuff. I was pretty lucky, but a broken stub can take out the spindle and cause other issues.
I also debated between going with the 30-spline chromo stuff (Yukon makes these) or 35-spline. As mentioned the 30-spline chromoly stubs are "supposed" to be about as strong as a Spicer 35-spline stub. I eventually decided to stop messing around and got 35-spline Yukon chromoly stubs and 35-spline flanges.
The problem with the Spicer 35-spline shafts seems to be that you can wallow out the yokes after a couple years of hard use, and then you start spitting out the c-clips and you get play in the shafts. 78Buford currently has this problem, and I know another guy who had to replace the 35-spline Spicers because of this problem.......never actually broke one, just wore it out. Supposedly this is not such a problem with the chromoly stuff because the yokes are better/harder material AND you use full-circle snap rings.
Regarding flanges, yes they are the strongest. I have heard of people breaking 35-spline locking hubs, though one of the guys mentioned above runs stock style Spicer locking hubs that were broached out to 35-spline and has never had a problem with them. I really don't think that Warn 35-spline hubs will break like a toothpick or anything, but flanges are stronger and I doubt you would ever break one.
It's also pretty easy to remove the flanges if so desired for street driving. Again, 78Buford has been doing this for quite awhile when he drove the truck to and from the trails.........takes maybe a couple of minutes to install/uninstall the flanges. The stock style pressed on cap covers work great for sealing up the end of the wheel hub and only require a couple taps with a hammer to install (cost around $12 for a pair of Spicers). Sure, not quite as handy as locking hubs........but if you NEED the strength of 35-spline stubs and flanges are you really in a situation where you need the convenience of locking hubs? Heck, even if you leave the drive flanges in place, and assuming everything in the front is in proper working order (ie. front driveshaft decently balanced, etc...) you will not hurt anything.
I also debated between going with the 30-spline chromo stuff (Yukon makes these) or 35-spline. As mentioned the 30-spline chromoly stubs are "supposed" to be about as strong as a Spicer 35-spline stub. I eventually decided to stop messing around and got 35-spline Yukon chromoly stubs and 35-spline flanges.
The problem with the Spicer 35-spline shafts seems to be that you can wallow out the yokes after a couple years of hard use, and then you start spitting out the c-clips and you get play in the shafts. 78Buford currently has this problem, and I know another guy who had to replace the 35-spline Spicers because of this problem.......never actually broke one, just wore it out. Supposedly this is not such a problem with the chromoly stuff because the yokes are better/harder material AND you use full-circle snap rings.
Regarding flanges, yes they are the strongest. I have heard of people breaking 35-spline locking hubs, though one of the guys mentioned above runs stock style Spicer locking hubs that were broached out to 35-spline and has never had a problem with them. I really don't think that Warn 35-spline hubs will break like a toothpick or anything, but flanges are stronger and I doubt you would ever break one.
It's also pretty easy to remove the flanges if so desired for street driving. Again, 78Buford has been doing this for quite awhile when he drove the truck to and from the trails.........takes maybe a couple of minutes to install/uninstall the flanges. The stock style pressed on cap covers work great for sealing up the end of the wheel hub and only require a couple taps with a hammer to install (cost around $12 for a pair of Spicers). Sure, not quite as handy as locking hubs........but if you NEED the strength of 35-spline stubs and flanges are you really in a situation where you need the convenience of locking hubs? Heck, even if you leave the drive flanges in place, and assuming everything in the front is in proper working order (ie. front driveshaft decently balanced, etc...) you will not hurt anything.
i went 35spline with warn premo's cuz its my dd/weekend warrior. i havent been out wheeling yet to see how it is, but i dont do hardcore rocks with lots of hopping or anything, just mostly mud so i think i should be ok. eventually i might buy a set of flanges and swap in and out on hardcore trips in the future.
