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350 clacking

So should I keep running or pull the top off? I don't want to destroy an otherwise solid engine

Isn't there a way to change flat tappets to a roller rocker set up?

Flat Tappet and roller rockers are two different things

You don’t need roller ROCKERS. That’s race car stuff, no benefits here


You’re asking about flat vs roller lifters. Yes you can change. If the lifters are bad, the cam could be compromised, and you can’t use roller lifters on that cam anyway

It’s expensive, like 4 digit range to convert
 
Flat Tappet and roller rockers are two different things

You don’t need roller ROCKERS. That’s race car stuff, no benefits here


You’re asking about flat vs roller lifters. Yes you can change. If the lifters are bad, the cam could be compromised, and you can’t use roller lifters on that cam anyway

It’s expensive, like 4 digit range to convert
Yes my mistake...
 
Flat Tappet and roller rockers are two different things

You don’t need roller ROCKERS. That’s race car stuff, no benefits here


You’re asking about flat vs roller lifters. Yes you can change. If the lifters are bad, the cam could be compromised, and you can’t use roller lifters on that cam anyway

It’s expensive, like 4 digit range to convert
4 digits, really? Well, what's the alternative? Assuming this one is going bad?

Swapping that stuff in is probably cheaper than a new engine?
 
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Kinda depends on your block, if it was a factory roller block or not. If you need a full retrofit it's not cheap, but cheaper than a new engine.

Here's a mild Howards retrofit cam kit, price is even decent.


Here's another slightly milder version, that's in stock.

 
It's a 1970's block I'm told...I'll try and get the numbers off the block when i get off work. Yes, it's far cheaper than a new engine
 
It's gen 1 sbc. 2 piece main fuel pump boss, and no roller cam.
All the same for chosing a roller cam conversion
 
I'm open to suggestions on roller cam conversion kits.. I'll do it myself, so that will save some $$
 
Have we verified that it’s not an exhaust leak?

I’d hate for you to dump $1000 buck into a cam if you don’t need it












Oh that last line is just bull$&!7. Everyone needs a roller cam
 
No exhaust leak... from flange or collector area but I found this..


Was clacking on start up mellowed a bit when fans kicked or warm. But it's still there and louder on driver side than passenger. But it's not louder than before and not quiet like yesterday when I showed my neighbor

DE835798-56CC-405E-B138-5690EAE0BD04.jpeg

577C337D-DABE-4DBD-8BAA-76C24A39F0C1.jpeg
 
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2am rant, can't sleep thanks to this truck.

Yup, shouldn't be coming out from from
mid pipe, shouldn't have soot on the muffler.

I'm at a loss and nothing I do or have done seems to fix the truck. I can't keep bothering @Wes Harden or posting a million times a day here. What I intended to be a fun truck to drive has turned into a nightmare. Now it can just stay in the driveway and rot.

I spend far too much time daily online looking for answers to the problems with this truck. I post here as a last resort because I ask too many questions as it is.

I also understand it's the nature of this beast but, I'm loosing money and patience. I've been battling with this truck for almost 4 straight years, and well, it won so far. It can just rot away or get pushed off a cliff.

Yes a bit melodramatic but I'm tired and Iburnt out.

So anyway, thanks for all the help.
It's appreciated.
 
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The condensation from that joint is no big deal. Is a low spot for water to collect. And will only happen on cold starts, and not very often in AZ. When truck is warmed up, no water.
Built, carbureted engine, run richer than modern catalytic cars and will have black soot in tail pipes.
You need to drive that beast. Enjoy it. Also to figure out what is normal. They all are a little unique every owner knows that little noise is different but it's ok.
 
2am rant, can't sleep thanks to this truck.

Yup, shouldn't be coming out from from
mid pipe, shouldn't have soot on the muffler.

I'm at a loss and nothing I do or have done seems to fix the truck. I can't keep bothering @Wes Harden or posting a million times a day here. What I intended to be a fun truck to drive has turned into a nightmare. Now it can just stay in the driveway and rot.

I spend far too much time daily online looking for answers to the problems with this truck. I post here as a last resort because I ask too many questions as it is.

I also understand it's the nature of this beast but, I'm loosing money and patience. I've been battling with this truck for almost 4 straight years, and well, it won so far. It can just rot away or get pushed off a cliff.

Yes a bit melodramatic but I'm tired and Iburnt out.

So anyway, thanks for all the help.
It's appreciated.
We have all gotten frustrated at times - and just as DB Cooper said, walk away from it for a little while and get recharged.

There was a point when each of us didn’t know squat about mechanics - it comes with time and experience and some of us were very fortunate and learned at an early age; just hang in there - you are seeking knowledge from others which is good when you are stumped - never stop learning !

I had a master transmission and differential builder mechanic take me under his wing when I was seventeen and thank God he never gave up on me - don’t give up on yourself !
 
Appreciate the words... and I do drive that damn thing (not enough) but it's why that noise jumped out at me.

I've been digging around and it could be a myriad of things. So I made a list and will go down it today/tomorrow. From fuel pump spring to cracked water pump, to flexplate bolts to toque convertor bolts, and exhaust leak, so oil pump etc.

So I have the next few days,,,no work so I'll just run down that list and see if anything applies. It won't hurt anything I guess.

Im late to the game to this stuff. So, at the very least this is all a pain in the rear learning experience.

Thanks again..
 
Appreciate the words... and I do drive that damn thing (not enough) but it's why that noise jumped out at me.

I've been digging around and it could be a myriad of things. So I made a list and will go down it today/tomorrow. From fuel pump spring to cracked water pump, to flexplate bolts to toque convertor bolts, and exhaust leak, so oil pump etc.

So I have the next few days,,,no work so I'll just run down that list and see if anything applies. It won't hurt anything I guess.

Im late to the game to this stuff. So, at the very least this is all a pain in the rear learning experience.

Thanks again..
Without realizing it one day it will be relaxing to work on it And you will find that when you are frustrated with other things in life that working on your old friend is a way of decompressing and relaxing.

And you will be able to help others with their problems because you did not just read about this stuff on-line or in magazines - you were one of those who became more than just a “parts changer” you will be able to diagnose problems and solve them because you have earned it. Stay in the game if it was all easy and gravy all the time everyone would do it - accomplish what others give up on the rewards will be worth it.
 
One last possibility fuel pump rod could be bad as well and hitting the cam shaft....

Ok headed to the garage...

@tarussell
Thanks for the motivating words... it's appreciated
 
Spit balling here but if the oil pressure is good then there is enough oil in the truck? What if, even though the dipstick reads full at cold, it's not?
 
If the clack starts after it runs, it’s heat related somehow. That can include the oil getting thinner and the lifter clacking

Fuel pump rods don’t usually fail
 
If the clack starts after it runs, it’s heat related somehow. That can include the oil getting thinner and the lifter clacking

Fuel pump rods don’t usually fail
Could the part of the fuel pump that pushes the rod up, click if it's failing? I've read a few posts inregards to that
 

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