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350 erratic temp at idle....FIXED

ChrisPerry

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I'm working on my bosses 70 Chevelle, healthy 350, worked over iron heads, Edelbrock rpm intake, 9.5 comp, unknown cam ( sounds like 280 or so), 3/4 length coated headers, custom serpentine belt setup, 4 core aluminum rad, all new hoses (spring in lower hose), new heater core, 5000 cfm electric fans with controller.
I did not assemble long block, it was built by previous owner 10+ years ago and has sat for last 5 completely dry.

Now for the issue........

Rev'd up to 1200rpm or running down the road it holds a solid 180, never moves, right at the thermostat temp no matter how hard I run it. At or near idle the temp fluctuates 40 degrees and does it really quickly. It will hold 180 for anywhere from 10 seconds to 1 minute then it will go from 180 to 220 in 5-6 seconds then will drop back to 180 after 10-15 seconds, it just bounces all over the place. rev it back up to 1200 and it will settle back to 180 after 15 seconds or so.

The temp at sending unit mounted in the top of intake on drivers side matches what the mechanical gauge reads (verified with infrared thermometer).

I'm positive there is no air in system, picked up nose of car 5 feet with tow truck and ran for 30+ min.
So far I've gone thru 4 thermostats, 2 different brands, 2 were stock style, 2 are high flow.
Pulled the new PRW high flow WP and verified it is a reverse rotation (visually looked at veins then hooked it to a drill).
I flushed block back and forth into a container and no sediment.
Flushed the new 4 core rad back and forth verifying no flow issues.
Flushed new heater core both ways.
It doesn't lose coolant, no bubbles in radiator.
Idling exhaust tube temps are 240-260 at all cylinders, but the drivers side head is 40+ degrees hotter than the same point on the passenger side head measuring on the intake side of both.
Verified timing marks and set advance at 12 idle 34 all in.
idle is not running lean and is not overly rich either.
lower rad hose temp is 140-150 while temp swings are happening so rad is cooling enough.
I called Eddies Motorsport, the manufacture of the serp system, they haven't had anything like this reported. Tech guy was very helpful and knowledgeable, but we are left scratching our heads.

I'm pretty confident that this is a flow issue in the drivers side head, but am a loss as to how to fix. I just ordered a new WP from a different manufacture, maybe the PRW doesn't flow evenly?

Anything you guys can think of that I may have missed.
 
Maybe not evenly or maybe the impeller isn’t close enough to the housing inside the pump, so it doesn’t flow right, or air bubble
 
I don’t see how the temp could bounce that far that fast unless the sender/wire or the gauge is bad, or there was air pockets in the system.
 
I don’t see how the temp could bounce that far that fast unless the sender/wire or the gauge is bad, or there was air pockets in the system.

it's a mechanical gauge, verified with infrared thermometer

Maybe not evenly or maybe the impeller isn’t close enough to the housing inside the pump, so it doesn’t flow right, or air bubble

It was heat cycled 4x's once with the front of the car 5 feet in the air. Can't see an air bubble not working itself out. But.....anything is possible.
 
The thermal gun shows the same fluctuations? If so, it is a flow issue IMO. Had a wierd one like this once. Finally started pulling things apart after going through all of the external stuff. Pulled the intake manifold and found a piece of tape the was on an intake water port. Had sucked in put still blocked that portion of flow.
 
The thermal gun shows the same fluctuations? If so, it is a flow issue IMO. Had a wierd one like this once. Finally started pulling things apart after going through all of the external stuff. Pulled the intake manifold and found a piece of tape the was on an intake water port. Had sucked in put still blocked that portion of flow.
yes, the temp gun shows same fluctuations just a little higher temp than the coolant, but only on the drivers side. Passenger side temp is pretty consistent.

I just spent the last hour flushing the block with the side and head plugs removed. The flow looks pretty even between the sides while flowing though the therm housing. The new pump will be here Monday. Hopefully the old pump has an internal issue causing a weak flow non the one side. :dunno:
 
Heater Hoses? Or like Wade says blockage on that side. thou how it didn't get flushed out ??? The worked over heads are GM ? if so what casting numbers?
 
041's with 2.02's. According to the original owner they are gasket matched and mild port and bowl work. I can confirm exhaust side, but not intake or bowl work.
 
And heater hose is routed from intake on ps front through stock valve, through heater core and back to the rad tank
 
i dont know if they still do it but napa identifix program for repair shops REQUIRES you to answer the fix or not on questions tech post up . after so many no answer they will not let you post new questions until you answer old ones .
 
While searching the web for an answer for this I found 2 people with the exact same issue and neither of them had a post answering. Won't do that to you guys, makes me wanna go postal........
 
But did you sign up for Blazer Bash?

I was offered a work position for my bosses other company, if I accept Blazer Bash probobly won't happen this year. I'm contemplating really hard and still discussing pay.
Not sure it is quite what I want right now......
 
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