CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

350 throttle body help

thank you k30 thats exactly what i was asking for i just couldnt explain it but i do have a question for you have you done any of these if so what were the outcomes?
 
search my screen name and tbi you can read the stuff i have done but cant see pics unless paid member as there hosted here.
 
so im asuming that i adjust it as high as i can? do in need to make any other changes to put the regulator on?
 
Most guys that have bumped the fuel pressure up have set it to around 13 psi, I think ryokan was running his at 13.5 psi if I remember correctly. The stock pump is only capable of 15 psi if I remember correctly.
 
ok cool so ive got it mostly planned out tb rebuild kit, pod spacer, powercharger(salad bowl), fuel filter, shorty headers, headted o2 sensor, edlebrok intake manifold fuel pressure regulator any opinions? or ideas?
 
I don't think I'd spend time/money on the adjustable FPR.

Outside of when you get into serious modifications, without getting into PROM tuning you are potentially wasting gas and hurting performance by bumping pressure up without really getting into what your motor is doing when you increase fuel pressure. This is why they make things like wide band O2 sensors and people tune PROM's themselves.

Obviously, like bumping up the timing a couple of degrees, GM has some "fudge factory" built in to the system, however the ECM doesn't compensate for fueling under wide open throttle nor vehicle warmup via feedback from the O2 sensor. It "knows" fuel flow at WOT based on stock fuel pressure and the injector rating. Change either one without "telling" the ECM, and it will flow more or less fuel than it thinks it is. Obviously very bad if flowing less fuel (lean) and simply wasteful and potentially harmful to performance if too much (rich).

Unless the engine is starving for fuel at WOT (which is possible with modifications of course, or a variety of other reasons), adjustable pressure regulator should offer no improvement over stock.

You'd be better off with the "hard" mods that affect airflow, like intake or exhaust work. Realize that even with those, the system will likely run ok, but not be running as good as it can be. Case in point: 454 TBI. Headers, mild cam, and Edelbrock intake required a 16% increase in the volumetric efficiency tables due to just those mods, and that was simply to get it back in line for part throttle. It seemed to run fine, but when you get into it, it wasn't.
 
The problem is many of the factory fuel pressure regulators aren't delivering enough fuel psi, it's not about bumping it above what gm intended, so much as making sure its getting enough. Some guys have checked theirs and found they were only getting around 9 psi stock...
 
Can't you put like a quarter in the stock one or something and bump it up?

I agree, it makes sense to check it. Should be able to tell the same thing with a scantool as with a pressure gauge (or at least confirm or deny there is a problem), the ECM would be correcting for lean at all times it's using O2 sensor feedback.

I suppose if the adjustable FPR is cheaper than the stock replacement for a failed FPR it would make sense to go that route, but if not, a faulty regulator is a faulty regulator.
 
ok so i found this on thirdgen.com "you will want to check your timing. The factory setting says to but it at 0* but most stock LO3’s like a bit more. This is a trial and error procedure and you will find that most LO3’s prefer anywhere from 4* to 8* advanced. Some like more and some like less and a little timing bump can increase fuel mileage, throttle response, and power. You may have to run a higher octane fuel though so you will have to consider that. After the car has received a full tune up you can start to consider your first modifications." so is it true with my bone stock tbi motor i can advance the timing to like 4 to 8 and run a higher octane and ill have more power and fuel economy just from advancing the timing then run on a higher octane fuel?
 
You can certainly try more timing. 2* increments will tell you where the fine line is, but as I seem to recall others here posting, 4* was often about as far as you could go.

As they mention, it's going to vary. Increasing octane requirements may or may not be a good deal, just depends if you get that extra ~5% fuel economy increase to justify it.
 
only need heated o2 for long tube headers.

and as said adjustable fuel pressure get only good if you have a gauge and adaptor to fit the gauge. http://www.rvmorsemachine.com/newproducts.htm

search edelbrock intake stuff over on third gen thay say what one works and if i recall the tbi one is not the best intake for all out flow .

tellin you dont waste your money up front and not do reading first. its all out there already just search and read a bit.

also salad bowl you can open up the bottom of the air cleaner base to just under the size of the bowl .

and any basic performance chip off the self is not worth much . custom tune is best.
 
i just want an opinion if i did shorty headers, edlebrock performer intake manifold, pod spacer and the salad bowl would there be any slightly noticeable power gain or throttle response?
 
not trying to be a dick here but for the XXX time

WHAT EDELBROCK PERFORMER INTAKE ? thay make a lot of versions of them . give a part # or link to it . :zombie12:
 
o.k. now like i said search that intake over on third gen and see what the guys have to say about it. if i recall thay dont care for it as much .

and you would need to modify throttle cable / tranny cable bracket and reset the tranny cable or you WILL KILL the tranny in no time flat and be cryin a river with no truck.
 
I would be careful, before modding, get it running right first. Find and fix the problem(s) before you attempt any mods. Only do one mod at a time, so you know if you screwed something up, or if anything improved or not. Remember you can mod a poorly running system all to want, but it's still going to run poorly, take the time and fix it first. I'd suggest checking your timing an setting it at the factory setting of 0*, you can worry about bumping the timing a few degrees later for performance. Mine ran worse with the timing advanced, settin it back to 0* solved a bunch of problems for me...
 
Top Bottom