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350 throttle body help

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89k5350

1/2 ton status
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Mar 14, 2011
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Location
springwater ny
ok its my understanding there a few things you can do with a throttle body to gain a little more power on a tbi motor. now i know somw of the basics of the tb should i install this bigger throttle body http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/502-6/10002/-1 or should i rebuild my current throttle body and get the cfm "power plate"/ tb spacer?
 
Need more info about the vehicle, that is kinda pricey. I got mine from RV Morse and have had no issues and it cost less. See if Scott (4X4high), Ryoken, Dave W, or Eagle mark check in. They know a lot about this stuff. Check out the injection section also, good info there.
 
Whats done to the motor? If its anywhere near stock then I wouldnt change it. And even heavily modified motors dont really need a bigger throttle body. TBI chips has told me the stock body with bigger injectors can hold upwards of 400hp.

Have you looked into porting a polishing your stocker? Also the injector pod spacer frees up ALOT of CFM and atomizes the fuel better.
 
ok a question i have for you is when i put my truck in gear the idle drops down alot like almost stalls then goes to a normal idle after a half second so what could that be a sensor? a vaccum leak? clogged injectors? down the road the truck runs great
 
First off, we will Gladly help you out, but you have to give a thorough explanation of the problem. Right now, there are dozens of possibilities that could be causing that type of issue... For guys to simply guess and give you a best guess answer will waste your time, your money(throwing parts at a problem), and will lead you to frustration when it doesn't fix it.

Now, does it do this consistently, can you duplicate the problem? Does your check engine or service engine soon light work? Have you checked for codes? Change your fuel filter! Put some good gas and a can of seafoam in the tank at fill up.

Before I would throw $470 on a new TBI unit, I'd at least rebuild the one you have, the kit is about $50 with a new diaphragm for the fuel pressure regulator. Carefully disassemble the throttle body paying close attention to how it is assembled, and cleaning it as you go. The rebuild kit will come with a great diagram of the entire assembly to help you. Take your time! The first one I rebuilt took me 3 or 4 hours. Be careful not to tear or pinch the injector o-rings. Clean everything with throttle body cleaner. You may need to use a toothbrush etc to clean some of the passage ways that will probably be loaded with crap from 20 plus years of use, but don't damage any of the mounting areas for sensors, gaskets, etc.
Do you plan on keeping the truck? If so, it's be a good time to replace the TPS(Throttle Position Sensor), IAC(Idle Air Control), and oxygen sensors. Keep the old IAC and TPS for spares. You could do all this yourself for around $150 and a long afternoon, and all of it is things I consider maintenance items on a 23 year old truck. Perfect time to throw an injector pod spacer in, since you seem interested in some performance mods... I wouldn't do any other mods until you have the truck running correctly.
 
alright thanks for taking the time to give me some good advice yes it is a consistant problem that happens every time i put the truck in gear i think i will start with seafoam and a fuel filter the service engine light is almost never on other than when i first turn the key on yes i PLAN on keeping the truck forever and im ready to do what ever i got to do to get it right and when you say pod are youu refering to a tbi spacer or cfms power plate? i know you did a power plate and curious what your results were from it should i let the seafoam sit over night in the motor cause i know my brother puts it in starts it lets it idle then drives it ill do the foam and filter soon and post up my results
 
No, I meant just pour a can into the gas tank when you fill up. It does wonders on dirty injectors for the next 300 miles. I just put a can in every 6 months or so. Also check for vacuum leaks, bad spark plug wires etc. Always do the free stuff first, this stuff can get expensive quick, especially when you're guessing. I learned almost everything by mistake, it's not fun or cheap...
 
X2 on checking the basics first. Vacuum leaks, fuel filter, right on up to tune up stuff like plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Old dry rotted and cracked vacuum lines will play all kinds of games on an injection system. As well as an old corroded dist cap and rotor. New ones are cheap and tune up stuff is never a bad idea.

By "pod" he meant the injector pod. The small part at the top of the TBI unit that supports the injectors and holds them out over the throttle blades. :waytogo:
 
The pod spacer is just that, it's a thicker gasket tha raises up the injector pod assembly. Many guys have done it and have had good results. You actually replace that gasket when you rebuild the throttle body, I can't remember how much it costs, maybe $10? It would just be a good time to do it of you're already replacing it. Like I said before, find out what's wrong first, get it running right first. Is it idling high? When you first start it does it idle high and then drop down as it starts to warm up? Does it slam into gear when you take it out of park and go into Drive or Reverse? Any hesitation or stuttering at highway cruising speed or when you are barely on the throttle?
 
This is an injector pod spacer and the longer screws to hold it together, the original is basically just a thin gasket.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336506855.233474.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336506855.233474.jpg
 
yes it does idle high even a little after warm ups in my opinion but does drop down and when i rev it to about 1000-1500 rpm it has a slight studder i did plugs wires i did auto light platnuim plugs but now im hearing autolights are the best
 
High idle is often a symptom of a vacuum leak, and there are lots of possible causes. Obviously check your vacuum lines, but another common vacuum leak is right at the throttle body base gasket where the TB bolts to the intake. A faulty EGR or egr solenoid can act like a vacuum leak, then there's the dreaded internal leaking intake manifold...:doah:

Don't get ahead of yourself though, check the simple and free stuff first. These TBI motors run surprisingly well even when there are problems, which is why i think so many people give them a bad rap. My horrible running TBI motor ran better than many of my carbureted cars over the years. Once I got everything fixed my TBI motor runs like a dream.
 
For the record, standard AC Delco plugs for the win. Not that you should go changing them out or anything, but in the future when you go to replace them. You didn't mention the cap and rotor, did you check/replace those?
 
89k5350 said:
would i be able to run the power plate and pod aspacer at the same time?
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you mean throttle body spacer when you are saying power plate? If so, yes you can, but remember that you must also raise the bracket that the TV cable and throttle linkages mount to. ****You also MUST reset the TV cable or you can ruin your transmission!!!****

There is some debate if TB spacers do much, I love mine, but I'm not sure if it's because it raised the TB or if it's because I have the CFM version with the center area milled out which allows it to draw from both bores and injectors instead of just one? CFM used to claim it lessened the need to flow match the injectors.
 
ok for 496 truck i have msd cap in rotor still in box just havent got around to it ill out those on this weekend ive got autolite platniums and taylor msd 8.2 mm wires
 
ok im thinkin at the end of the month or sooner im going to buy a edlebrock intake manifold, shorty headers, tbi rebuild kit., clean injectors, new fuel filter, pod spacer and new gaskets with all of these obvously in your guys opinions what do you think this will do for my truck right now it has high idle on starts and still a tad high after warm ups and it consistantly drops rpm alot when put into gear then goes up to normal gear idle
 
best mod is 2 fold

#1 = 25 bucks for full site acssess and pics with tons of info .

#2 = search and search before just droping cash on crap that dont work for best buck you could spend it on.

i would get your money back on autolite platnums and get reg old ac delco for the truck at this point.

not saying there bad plug just dont need it in these old motors.

what intake ?

fuel filter can make huge improvment if never changed before.

i would go full length and be done with it. also add in a heated o2 sensor vary simple swap and get a weld in o2 sensor bung ( search heated o2 sensor upgrade for info ) . buddy just got these and installed them. cleared front shackles REAL GOOD and also sit up in the frame. also ball socket flanges not crappy old flat flanges.

i would do injector pod spacer / hypertech power charger ( AKA salad bowl ) clean / redo the tbi with new reman kit. ( will need 16mm line wrench for fuel fittings on tbi and fuel filter )

these are good basic mods and no major chip work needed to run correctly.
 
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