What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

383 Install

cuervo

cuervo

Runn'n down a dream!
 Premium
Joined
Jan 2, 2004
Posts
3,800
Reaction score
992
Location
Sweet Home Alabama!
I was going to use my horse power thread for this but it kind went all over the place so I'll make a new one.

I'm removing my old worn out 350 and dropping in a new GMPP HT383. bla bla bla has some specs.

The old!!

oldmotor.jpg


The new :eek1:

newmotor.jpg



At current I'm working out some remaining issues.

The bung in the new manifold is 1/2 and my old temperature sending is 3/8. So I either need to find an adaptor or get a temp sending unit that is larger but has the variables.

Modifiying my pulley support arms and cruise control bracket so they fit the new vortec manifold.

Making some spacers for the power steering pump bracket to work with my new headers.
 
Last edited:
*Most* GM senders are the same resistance values. There are adapters, I prefer the right sending unit if possible.

As to cruise, up to you of course, but I ended up taking one off of a car, that was mounted on the fender. Doesn't look stock (the mechnisms are the same, just mounted different), but actually pretty nifty as it kept the area immediately around/on top of the engine cleaner.
 
Very nice. Post some pics on the clearance header wise. I'm looking to switch over to some I can flatbelly my truck with and they look like a candidate.
 
I'll give you a quick heads up on those headers. The driver side will come extremely close to the frame and shackle. Be prepaired to find a really good exhuast guy. I have the same style headers and I did find someone who could do the work but was turned down by 90% of the muffler shops or they wanted $600 to do the job. I ended up paying $150 for a guy that took pride in his work and made sure everything worked. You start asking muffler shops to make some bends and they start acting as if its rocket science. Most will want to run 2 sets of pipes out the back.

I hate you by the way ;)
 
dyeager535 said:
*Most* GM senders are the same resistance values. There are adapters, I prefer the right sending unit if possible.

As to cruise, up to you of course, but I ended up taking one off of a car, that was mounted on the fender. Doesn't look stock (the mechnisms are the same, just mounted different), but actually pretty nifty as it kept the area immediately around/on top of the engine cleaner.
Click to expand...

At this point, my options seem to be either an adaptor that is very low, EGR clearance issues, or move it to the port in the head. Dorian, do think that would be an issue with what temp it would get?

I think I already have the cruise work out, and I'm pretty close to welding up the pulley support arm.

One thing I came across last night while removing most of the stuff off of the old motor was there was only one large bolt in the crank pulley. The 3 smaller holes didn't have bolts in them. I thought they all used the bolts.
 
I'm noticing that the intake mounted sender is reading a good 10* OVER rated thermostat temp in my setup (204* at intake, 195*-ish at head), I don't think I'd worry about a 10* difference by putting it in the head. Pretty unlikely that small difference is going to matter, when GM allowed 20*+ temp swings between t-stat temp and cooling fan turn-on temp.
 
I personally would run the sender in the head, it's always hotter there. My thoughts were that the sooner I know if it's overheating the better.

Nice choice :D

There should defintely have been 3 bolts in the pulley, along with the 1 in the crank.
 
Well, I am going to run a second gauge. A mechanical autometer that will go where ever the factory sender does not. I'm inclined to keep the factory sender where it was, in the manifold, if I can.

I'm not sure what the other head had in it but there is a sender in the water port. Did they ever use two heat sending units?
 
Stomis said:
Very nice. Post some pics on the clearance header wise. I'm looking to switch over to some I can flatbelly my truck with and they look like a candidate.
Click to expand...

I'll post some photos of the exhaust once completed. I'm gonna have to piece together something to get it to the muffler shop for sure. But it will be the factory 2 and (whatever) to 3 inch through a single 3 inch flowmaster with no cat.

Also, isn't there a clamp on heat riser for headers? The part that the flex tubing goes on that runs to the air cleaner?
 
Two senders for temp. Gauge and the ECM. ECM one is technically a sensor I suppose, but end result is the same, method for measuring engine temperature. Opposite head will have an empty port.
 
If that water pump came on the engine you need to verify if it is reverse rotation to work with your serp stuff.

I'm looking at the HT383 crate engine in my GM Performance Parts book and the pump that comes with it is a GM #88894341 but when i look at the serp accessory drive system that pump is a GM #88894005 so i think that pump is wrong for a serp set-up.
 
I just cut the alt. bracket straight down so I didn't have to bolt it to the header bolts and it looks cleaner.
Tarey

DSCN0580.JPG
 
4X4HIGH said:
If that water pump came on the engine you need to verify if it is reverse rotation to work with your serp stuff.

I'm looking at the HT383 crate engine in my GM Performance Parts book and the pump that comes with it is a GM #88894341 but when i look at the serp accessory drive system that pump is a GM #88894005 so i think that pump is wrong for a serp set-up.
Click to expand...

Thanks Scott, I pulled the pump off that came on the motor and put a new 91 model on just to be sure.
 
GNERGY said:
I just cut the alt. bracket straight down so I didn't have to bolt it to the header bolts and it looks cleaner.
Tarey
Click to expand...

Are you still using the two braces that go from the top of the idler pulley to the intake?

Does anyone know what application I can get a formed bypass hose to fit this from?

bypass.jpg
 
Last edited:
I can't help with an exact number, but I can tell you that the heater outlet on the TPI intake wouldn't work with my accessories, some scrounging around in the wrecking yards I managed to find one that had the outlet at a 90*, which was enough to point it where I needed to go. At least something like that would simplify the hose needed, if someone can't provide you with an exact-fit application.
 
Thanks Dorian.

You said you moved your cruise control to the fender. What did you do for the throttle bracket?
 
I only used one of the metal supports that go to the bolt on the intake. And my waterpump outlet has the temp switch to turn on my electric fans. I didn't have a fitting sticking out of the intake like you do, my intake is an Edelbrock TBI
Tarey
 
I used the stock bracket. There are a couple of different cable locking pieces (what locks the cable to the bracket) however the cable travel all seems to be the same, IF the cable fits the bracket.

I see your problem though, since the bracket in your case was bolted to the intake, right? I assume the new intake is missing the boss(es) for the bracket bolts. Tough call there.
 
dyeager535 said:
I used the stock bracket. There are a couple of different cable locking pieces (what locks the cable to the bracket) however the cable travel all seems to be the same, IF the cable fits the bracket.

I see your problem though, since the bracket in your case was bolted to the intake, right? I assume the new intake is missing the boss(es) for the bracket bolts. Tough call there.
Click to expand...

Well, it's more of the slant on the bracket that fit the last bolt hole on the non vortec manifold. On the vortec the bolts are flat.

It took me about two hours but I got all the fabrication done on the throttle cable and cruise control brackets. Now that that's out of the way I need to fab up a bracket for the idler pulley.

cruise.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom