So what's the trick to getting the fuel sending unit cover on the gas tank off with out special took J-36608?
I have to change out my fuel pump.
I have to change out my fuel pump.
CK5
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383 Install
- Thread starter cuervo
- Start date
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Been a few years since I did it but IIRC you can just tap the "ring" with a hammer and screw driver counterclockwise and loosen it up. I might be thinking of a different setup though... not 100% on that one.
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
What pump are you putting in?
I don't remember what your doing for a tune... are you planning on one from tbichips.com?
I don't remember what your doing for a tune... are you planning on one from tbichips.com?
I'm putting in a new pump to match the 18 psi fuel pressure spring and 454 injectors. I do have a new chip from tbichips as well.
Just tap the ring counter clockwise with a drift, screwdriver or the like on the three tabs. I like to tap on one then move to another because the ring as it turns tends to not want to move in an exact circular motion.
2 45 degree npt to barbs'd get ya a nice straight piece, no app needed then...
Thanks guys, I got it off and out.
Now, it looks like the clip that comes with the new pump doesn't fit the old one. The new pump came with a new clip but it needs to be wired in.
I've done wiring before like everyone else, stereos, gauges and the like but never something that would go in a fuel tank. What's the best way to make these connections? I know I can move the tank away and let the stuff air dry so I could solder and shrink rap but is shrink rap in the tank ok? Will it hold up to gas? Should I just use butt connectors?
Now, it looks like the clip that comes with the new pump doesn't fit the old one. The new pump came with a new clip but it needs to be wired in.
I've done wiring before like everyone else, stereos, gauges and the like but never something that would go in a fuel tank. What's the best way to make these connections? I know I can move the tank away and let the stuff air dry so I could solder and shrink rap but is shrink rap in the tank ok? Will it hold up to gas? Should I just use butt connectors?
If you bought the pump from Brian at TBIchips then it's probably the same 255 lt/hr pump i bought from him and i just cut and soldered the wires and then heat shrank the wires. I cut the wires at different lengths so "just in case" the heat shrink should fail the bare wires can't possibly touch each other. So far i've had no trouble with the heat shrink being in the fuel and it's been that way for 16 months now.
Clip you are talking about...do you mean connector?
Just wondering if you can de-pin the connectors, and solder/crimp the wires to the correct terminals?
Just wondering if you can de-pin the connectors, and solder/crimp the wires to the correct terminals?
They are completely different and that can't be done IIRC the factory connector is like the old ford coil terminals where it looks like a threaded post but is a snug slip fit and the new pump is a flat pin style connector
The pins from the old and new are different sizes.
I took a break today and went to the lake. I'll check the sizes in the morning.
I took a break today and went to the lake. I'll check the sizes in the morning.
Got it done this morning. Take a look before I put the tank back up.
Nothing to do with the install really, but I pulled the pan on the old motor.
I guess this could worth a few bucks to someone. At least I'll get a little bit of my investment back.
I guess this could worth a few bucks to someone. At least I'll get a little bit of my investment back.
More Grrrrr.
My 4l80e torque converter has 6 bolts and my old flex plate used all 6. The new flex plate has 6 holes but only 3 of them line up with the torque converter.
I believe the 383 is externally balanced which should mean the flex plate is balanced to the rotating assembly.
So I guess my course of action is to either run 3 of the 6 bolts or drill the flex plate for the other 3.
Either way it's PITA set back.
Well, as luck would have it my old flex plate will work with the new motor. So pulled the tranny back about 2 inches and just swapped them out.
My 4l80e torque converter has 6 bolts and my old flex plate used all 6. The new flex plate has 6 holes but only 3 of them line up with the torque converter.
I believe the 383 is externally balanced which should mean the flex plate is balanced to the rotating assembly.
So I guess my course of action is to either run 3 of the 6 bolts or drill the flex plate for the other 3.
Either way it's PITA set back.
Well, as luck would have it my old flex plate will work with the new motor. So pulled the tranny back about 2 inches and just swapped them out.
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NO! Do not use your old flexplate if it is off your 350 and does not have the ballance weight. Just because it fits does not mean it will ballance. The 350 is internally ballanced while the 383 will have the ballance weight on the flexplate. You need to find an externally ballaced flexplate for the 4l80e as it does have a different bolt pattern. I ran into the same problem but just used 3 bolts on the flexplate-torque converter. Next time the tranny comes out I will swap to the correct flexplate.
The plates are identical. The weight is there and in the same exact spot and same size.
Same weight, same location. I was told by the Pace Performance Tech guru the old plate was fine to use.
Something doesn't make sense there if you old engine really is a 350 they will not be the same. Does your old engine have the externally balanced balancer as well? Are you looking at the correct weight? Are you sure the old one wasn't a 383?
Anyway, what I wanted to say is use the correct flexplate and just put 3 of the bolts in. I just went through the same thing when I ordered a HD Hughes converter for my TH400 to go with my 489 BB I am almost done building. The HD converter has 6 lugs, I have a dual pattern externally balanced flexplate. Hughes told me to just run 3 of the bolts and it won't matter either way. I was worried it would cause noise with some contact but they said they have people do it all the time and it won't matter.
Also, my uncles and cousins race in the IHRA circuit and they didn't start having trouble with 3 bolts until they were pushing ~1200 horse. Around there they run 6 bolts. So strength is definitely not an issue.
Anyway, what I wanted to say is use the correct flexplate and just put 3 of the bolts in. I just went through the same thing when I ordered a HD Hughes converter for my TH400 to go with my 489 BB I am almost done building. The HD converter has 6 lugs, I have a dual pattern externally balanced flexplate. Hughes told me to just run 3 of the bolts and it won't matter either way. I was worried it would cause noise with some contact but they said they have people do it all the time and it won't matter.
Also, my uncles and cousins race in the IHRA circuit and they didn't start having trouble with 3 bolts until they were pushing ~1200 horse. Around there they run 6 bolts. So strength is definitely not an issue.
Not sure but even if you try to order a new 4l80e flex plate for HT 383 it just says this.
Flywheel or flexplate - Use 1986 or later one piece crank seal design (no specs about any special application of CIs noted)
My 350 is a 91 one piece motor and as you can see in the photo, it has the externally balanced weight on it. Another call to Mark Lucicosky, technical service for Pace Performance, agrees that mine will work and if he sold me a new it would be just like the one I currently have.
There is only one weight on each flex plate and they are the same. Take a look at the photos. The balancer on my old motor doesn't have any weights on it nor is it drilled. The guy I purchased the Suburban from never indicated the motor was not stock. I've done nothing to it.
I'm well aware of the 3 bolt converters. I used to race a little back in the day. I've built a few motors but I always left the balancing to the machinist. I do under stand what a couple of grams mean on a rod or piston.
This is the crank that comes in the motor.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Crankshaft-383ci-4340-Steel-12489436-P524C16.aspx
Flywheel or flexplate - Use 1986 or later one piece crank seal design (no specs about any special application of CIs noted)
My 350 is a 91 one piece motor and as you can see in the photo, it has the externally balanced weight on it. Another call to Mark Lucicosky, technical service for Pace Performance, agrees that mine will work and if he sold me a new it would be just like the one I currently have.
There is only one weight on each flex plate and they are the same. Take a look at the photos. The balancer on my old motor doesn't have any weights on it nor is it drilled. The guy I purchased the Suburban from never indicated the motor was not stock. I've done nothing to it.
I'm well aware of the 3 bolt converters. I used to race a little back in the day. I've built a few motors but I always left the balancing to the machinist. I do under stand what a couple of grams mean on a rod or piston.
This is the crank that comes in the motor.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Crankshaft-383ci-4340-Steel-12489436-P524C16.aspx
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