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383 stroker? questions on building one

Silver84k5

Silver84k5

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Can anyone gimme info on building a 383 stroker? Price? i heard its easy to do, anyone got one? you like it? thank you all

If you dont make it the first time, Drink another beer, and press a little harder on the gas
 
I have built a 383 for my last blazer that since got stolen. yes they are easy to build and they make lots of torque if using the correct combination of parts. Scat actually now sells a rotating assmebly that should makes things even easier now. The 383 i had built for my last blazer consisted of a one piece rear main seal block with a scat crank and scat rods 5.7" and a set of KB pistons with 180 AFR heads. I had comp cams build me a custom hydraulic roller cam specs as follows .480/.487 lift at valve 206/212 duration at .050 on a 112 lobe separation. this combination using the tune port injection with other mods made 385 HP and 508 FT. LBS. torque. And considering i had 4.56 gears with 35's this made for a real stump puller. Hope this helps you make a decision to build a stroker
 
Thx man, lots of info, complicated sounding stuff heh but im sure its easier then it sounds, would my 850 Edelbrock q-jet be a good carb for it? cuz somone told me that my carb shouldnt be on a 350 they said its a bad combination, i dont know why

If you dont make it the first time, Drink another beer, and press a little harder on the gas
 
Yes, your 850 carb would be an ideal size for a 383 assuming you dial it in good along with timing.
 
got any estimate on price? thx for your help

If you dont make it the first time, Drink another beer, and press a little harder on the gas
 
price will depend on if you have to pay someone to do all the work or if you can do some of the work yourself. and also depends on what kinds of parts you intend to put in it. I am guessing from your name that you have an 84 blazer. You could always go to the dealer and buy the 383 that they offer, i have seen them for as little as 2,600.00 and as high as 3,700.00. it is a late model version using the one piece rear main seal block which means you would need to also purchase a new flex plate for your torque converter to bolt too since your old one would not bolt to the one piece rear seal crank.
 
hmmmm... what if you wanted to take a 350 and fab a 383 out of it...
All I know is it is a 400 crank.. I dont know much else but will a 400 crank fit without any machining of the block?
I wanna do this to my 1991 9C1 police 350. It already has a roller cam/lifter setup but is only rated at 260+hp and 300ft lb of torque.... so I wanna bump it up a bit..
thanks for the reading it is really good....

<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/rootbreaker>Pics of buildup</a>78 Chevy 3/4 - 14" on 40"x17x16.5 Ground Hawgs
 
A 400 crank won't work with your '91 block. All the 400's used the 2-piece rear main seal. Your '91 has a one piece rear main seal. However, there are aftermarket stroker cranks that are made to fit your block, and without any maching on your part.
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To fit a 400 crank into a 350 block (that has the correct seal type) requires machining the crank, not the block. The main journals have to have 0.200 taken off of them to fit the 350 bearings. There is also some minor grinding that has to be done in the oil pan seal area of the block, to make certain that there's room for the rods to swing in their new larger arc.
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<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
It's a great day to be alive...
 
Your best bet is to pick up a copy of "How to Build max perfomance chevy small blocks on a budget" by daivid Vizard, about $20 at barns and noble. I think I'm gonna build an engine similar to the #4 one that is featured. 383 ci, 425 hp, 450 ft/lbs through out the rpm curve. I want to find out what TPI would to to improve those numbers.

K5- because size DOES matter!
<font color=blue> <a target="_blank" href=http://www.coloradok5.com/gallery/Bucks-Truck>
Fear This </a>
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4X4HIGH, im curious on other mods to your 383 to get that kind of power with that mild cam.. what kind of heads and what work done to them, and any other mods. was this a computer dyno or on a real engine dyno. i would love to build one with that kind of torque!!

BIG BLOCK MAN
"MORE POWER"!!
 
Just a taste of info for your knowledge, a 400 crank will fit into a late model one piece rear main seal block with the use of the rear seal adapter. This allows the use of two piece seal crank in one piece seal blocks. It does get a bit pricy though, around $130.00 i think.
 
As i stated earlier, I used the AFR 180 heads which are 100% CNC ported from AFR. I also had TPI injection with 24.95 lb. hr. injectors and also a 1050 CFM throttle body which is the twin 58 mm one made by BBK. I also had an adjustable fuel pressure regulator set at 45 PSI at idle. The dyno info that i stated was using the dyno 2000 program which is pretty accurate to within 2%. I did have all the flow numbers for the heads I used along with all other pertinent information such as deck height and cylinder cc's, piston dish cc's, and combustion chamber cc's, along with compressed head gasket thickness and cc's. When inputting all of this information into the program it is very accurate.
 
is there a web site for the bbk injection system. i have been toying with the idea of getting an after maket system that can handle some real power. i like the ram jet system but not willing to put out 3 grand for it..

BIG BLOCK MAN
"MORE POWER"!!
 
I know the crank is different for a 383, but what else is? I am pretty sure that the rods are different too. Does a stock 350 use 6" rods or 5.7"? I guess my question in other words in what else do I have to change in my 350 .030 over, to stroke it out?
Thanks for the info,
Mike

The jeep eater ......
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I don't know if BBK has a web site or not. But as far as i know BBK doesn't do any fuel injection systems only throttle bodies.
 
Building a 383 can me done several different ways. You can use a stock 400 crank with the main journals cut down .200" and then use the stock length 5.565" 400 rods and a 350 piston, or you can use the stock 400 crank and the stock length 5.7" 350 rods with a special piston, or the stock 400 crank and a aftermarket 6" rod and special piston. When you build them with either the 5.7" or 6" rod you must clearance the rod bolts so that they don't hit the camshaft or use a small base circle camshaft. You must also clearance the block for the longer stroke at the bottoms of the cylinders so the rods don't hit there also. Naturally you will need to rebalance the whole rotating assembly. You may do so either externally or internally with mallory weight.
 
Go here, <a target="_blank" href=http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&amp;catid=120&amp;pid=465>http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&amp;catid=120&amp;pid=465</a>

Kind of spendy, but you can't beat the warranty or the 415 lb-ft of torque!!

Buddy



72 K-5, 33x12.5's, 350/350/205,12-bR,d44F soon to be 39.5'x15.5s, EFI502/nv4500/doubler205, d60F, d70R. Stay tuned.
 
4X4HIGH brings up a good point, Rod length.

To have a good flat torque curve use a 6" rod in your 350. This improves the rod/strke ratio and is realitivly east to do. In your case using a '91 block, a kustom crank of some sort sounds a bit pricy to me but i am poor
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-zakk

World's Fugliest 1-Ton '77 K5
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CK5's Moab 2002 or Bust!!
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4X4HIGH... how much $ was that 383 w/ 508ft/lbs? torque is what i really want. and i would like to build my own motor.

--Scott, 1989 GMC Suburban 2500 4" lift, 36" TSLs
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/muddysub>http://community.webshots.com/user/muddysub</a>
 
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