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4.10's and 38's?

littlejimmythatcould

littlejimmythatcould

1/2 ton status
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Feb 6, 2006
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Location
Clovis, NM
Does anyone wheel with 4.10's and 38's? I've got the axles and will be having the money for my 4 inch lift with 38's on 3/4 ton running gear. The 3/4 ton axles ( D44 and 14 bff) have 4.10's already in them. I have will have $2500 to spend on my truck. So I'm torn between getting the lift and tires and beadlocks or spending the money on 5.13 gears and lockers for the axles and having to have them sit in my yard while I save up the rest of the money for the lift and tires. The gears and lockers would probably be the best investment for my truck, but At least if I get the lift and tires and beadlocks I could still throw my axles on there and kind of enjoy everything because I'm getting a little bored with stock suspension and 33's. My truck is not going to see any difficult terrain for a while yet and I mainly putt back and forth to work on base (3 mile round trip). I'm sorry about the long post I'm just wondering if anyone could offer some advice.:dunno: Thanks.

Todd
 
I ran 38s and 4.10s for a while, I have a small block and a turbo 350 I thought it was a great combo a little high off road but overall a pretty good match IMHO
 
Hmmm tough question, what tranny are you using?

IMO a locker is the single best upgrade possible. And though big tires look great, if the terrain you're doing isn't that tough do you really need 38's?

What about a winch? Second best upgrade IMO!

I do mud, flat trails with 37's and 4.10's, it's not great but definitely doable. Hilly terrain, or rock crawling wouldn't be fun, this is with a T350.

Not much help but something to think about.
 
i would say the 38 and lift hey you can always use 4 lo then do gears and locker ,
i agree with the locker best upgerade i did


sorry for the incohearent typin im pretty drunk right now
 
I've got a TH350. And eventually I think I'll get to some rougher terrain. My truck just doesn't get the best gas milage to go places with my jeep buddies (yes I have jeep buddies). And I agree that 38's look cool and give lots of clearance. As for the winch... there isn't a whole lot to winch onto around here unless I got one of those anchors that you plant in the dirt to pull with, I was considering a come along for light winching. Also a high lift jack. I am really considering squeezing a lock right into my tight budget. I have never had a locker before, would it be most effective in the front or rear? I was thinking about putting it in the front (d44). But the local shop charges $250 to install it and I want to keep my costs down. The lock right is supposed to be easy to install by the average person. I am thinking it would be a waste to put the lift and tires and beadlocks on and not include some kind of locker in the mix. I will try to squeeze in a locker. Have any of you ever installed a lock right?
 
Put it in the rear axle, which is a 14b ff right? Super easy install with the only specialty tool being a dial indicator and a mag base (both of these can be had at harbor freight for 25 bucks or less) Everything else is basic handtools. Put a temp gauge on your trans and watch it. I wheeled everything from deep mud to big time rocks my setup was 38" swamper radials 3/4 ton axles rear detroit 4.10 gears and a 203 t-case yes it left a little to be desired on the big rocks but overall it worked really well I think. The reasoning for putting the locker in the rear is pure strength. The 14b will handle 38s and a locker with no problems. Also as someone who has wheeled with and without beadlocks put the money you would have spent on the beadlocks into your rear locker and run 15s or 17s as your rims
 
blazinzuk said:
Put it in the rear axle, which is a 14b ff right? Super easy install with the only specialty tool being a dial indicator and a mag base (both of these can be had at harbor freight for 25 bucks or less) Everything else is basic handtools. Put a temp gauge on your trans and watch it. I wheeled everything from deep mud to big time rocks my setup was 38" swamper radials 3/4 ton axles rear detroit 4.10 gears and a 203 t-case yes it left a little to be desired on the big rocks but overall it worked really well I think. The reasoning for putting the locker in the rear is pure strength. The 14b will handle 38s and a locker with no problems. Also as someone who has wheeled with and without beadlocks put the money you would have spent on the beadlocks into your rear locker and run 15s or 17s as your rims
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there are no special tools required period. no dial indicator, no mag base no anything. just count the turns on the adjusters and put them back where they were, done.

one thing to consider is maybe a lincon locker? if you dont know, i mean weld it. its super cheap and plenty strong. then you can buy the lockrite for the front and have real 4 wheel drive. its a little harsh on pavement, but your on a budget so, you gotta do what you gotta do.
 
yeah, I suppose I could just run regular wheels. I'm just getting a good deal on humvee beadlocks. I know a guy that can get them surplus from drmo (military surplus) for $20 each. which lowers the price of complete recentered beadlocks from $185/ea to about $90/ea. But y'all are right I'm probably not ready for rocks yet until I have gears and lockers all around. So I could put that towards lockers. I don't want to weld the gears becuase it does see the street quite a bit. And I will have to drive it to and from the trail.
 
Masiony said:
there are no special tools required period. no dial indicator, no mag base no anything. just count the turns on the adjusters and put them back where they were, done.
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I still stand by my statement. They are cheap (also cheap insurance) and if you ever put a locker in the 44 or a 60 you will need them. Truly you need a torque wrench too, but I consider that a standard tool. That said Masiony is right you can do it without either. I just wouldn't
 
Will I have to disturb the ring gear in there? I don't want to have to mess with those shims. And what's a mag base? I was thinking on my way home from work a few minutes ago that I could (please correct me if I'm wrong) put a locker in the rear and weld the front gears because they only turn when the front hubs are locked in right? I'm just trying to get everything straightened out to get the most for my money because this will probably be the only big money I will get to spend for the rest of the year. The wife is keeping me to a strict allowance of $150 to (maybe) $200 a month. I appreciate you alls help. You've helped me make up my mind to get regular steel wheels for now in order to get the locker, I didn't think of that. keep it coming, maybe I over looked something else. oh, but I didn't mention that I'm getting all 4 of my 38x12.50x16.5's for around $950 with road hazard and free replacement.
 
LJTC,

I run 38's and 4.10s on Stomper. It's a decent combination, especially since it still has highway legs when I need to drive longer distances.

Admittedly, my crawl ratio isn't the greatest but it's still given me years of fun while I save up for a Doubler or STAK box.

As for the locker, I still run an open front but use a Detroit in the rear. Being locked up in the back is pretty important....though a tire as big as a 38" will give you a LOT of traction and clearance even without one. You could always try a "Lincoln Locker" out back....it's basically free. If you decide it's too radical for everyday driving, you can always pull out the welded gears and drop in a set of stock spider gears again....or save your pennies for a Detroit (which will also drop right in without special tools or setup)

Beadlocks are nice, but I would put them in the "Round 2 upgrades" category. You can air down to maybe 12-15psi without beadlocks and still be OK on a 16.5" rim.



:usaflag:
 
yeah i am a big fan of welding spiders i am welded front and rea but anywho , if you want to slap a lockright in the easies of the two axle is the front if you want minimal work to install if you are a noobie at it 2hrs or less. as far as hummer wheels i think that that might not be a bad price if you figure you spend 50-70 a wheel on a steelie why not spend 90 on hummers. think of it this way at least you will not spend the money again later on locks . also is he offfering you wheels with tires if so you get what either 36 or 37" Military MTR's? that could save you money on tires until you get the rest of your truck done . also I had a 87 K5 My rear was welded in a 10 bolt on 31's it was a DD weekend wheeler , it was cheap went where i wanted it , and i liked it. well any questions let us know also i used the dial inicator torque wrench all that stuff , and it is the easiest axle to do imho.


Also i run 4.10's with 44" boggers . Granted I have the Sm465 it has balls when i get on it so it seems. I dunno only drove the truck once since i just finished it ,can't wait to step up to 5.13's
 
I am running 37's and 4:10's with a th400/241 combo. It works pretty good overall but I would like more low range so I am going to a 241/205 t case set up.
 
I'm looking at the 38x12.50's tsls. And yes the hummer wheels come with tires on them, but a majority of them have been sitting in the NM sun for a while and are nice and cracked. Plus the reason I'm looking at new tires is that my base is really picky about people's tires leaking down and being flat while on deployment. It's stupid. So, lockers over gears. And the detroit is easier to install than the lock right? I'm just really intimidated about going into the diffs. I've read all kinds of articles about doing it, but on the other hand I know some guys that tried it and shattered everything. But it's just putting a locker in, with the detroit, do you have to disturb the ring and pinion setup?
 
blazinzuk said:
I still stand by my statement. They are cheap (also cheap insurance) and if you ever put a locker in the 44 or a 60 you will need them. Truly you need a torque wrench too, but I consider that a standard tool. That said Masiony is right you can do it without either. I just wouldn't
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first of all we were talking about a 14FF, and you dont need any special tool for that. and i know for a fact that a D60 lockrite can be installed without even pulling out the carrier.

no special tools required, period.
 
I have a dana 44, I know it is smaller than a d60 but will I have to pull the carrier on d44? But for now I was considering locking the rear and welding the front since the front gears only turn when it's in 4 wheel and the hubs are locked.
 
A detroit replaces the carrier (except in a 14b FF) hence the lock right is easier in anything but a 14b FF so the only setting you disturb is backlash which is adjusted by screwing an adjustor on either side of the carrier in or out(on a 14b). Very easy to do. A mag base is a magnetic base something that holds the dial caliper. If you can in fact read, you can install a locker. Also just my opinion but I think welding the front is more trouble than it is worth. Yes I have done it will I do it again no way. my turning radius went up about 30 ft. I am not a fan of welding or spooling any diff even in a trail only rig
 
i agree with the above post about welding the front. if you dont run some kind of hydralic assist or full hydro, dont run a welded or spool. it is very abusive to the power steering system. a lunchbox in the front is a much much better choice. it allows the axles to get away from each other when you are not on the throttle.

be prepaired to break u-joints and shafts in your front end if you run any locker. its just something that will happen sooner or later. and the probability goes up with tire size. im not a fan of them, but maybe this is the application for a limited slip in the front.

but, if you do weld a diff, weld the rear. but that is just my .02
 
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