CK5
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4.3L question - Is it worth buying a set of Vortec heads to put on my 4.3?

I'm thinking that marine manifold was probably for a "Dual-Jet" 2 bbl,GM didn't use 2GC's much after 1978 or so--but maybe the marine applications did...(Mercruiser bought GM's 307 V8's for marine engines and used them for years after they stopped putting them in vehicles in 1973)...

A Dual-Jet carb looks much like a Q-jet with the secondary barrel area that is "solid" metal,no rear barrels ..

When he brings the intake over If the carb is still on it I'll snap a pic or two and post them.
 
Here's the marine intake on the 4.3L. Had to take the sheet metal baffle off of the bottom of the intake to clear the balance bar in the valley.

Rotated the engine over by hand and it did not snag on the bottom of the intake at all.

The pics with the carb sitting on the intake have .50" of flat cut-off wheel between the intake and carb to represent the .50" thick adapter that I will be using.

Wayyyy more low profile that the TBI intake.

Threw some pics of the carb in there... not sure what it is.

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That is a 2GC carb for sure--they came in two sizes,the smaller ones had 1-1/4" throttle butterflies ,used mostly on 283 and 307 engines,the larger version had 1-1/2" throttle butterflies..
I liked those carbs,they were better than a Dual-Jet in my opinion..
But the Motorcraft 2100's are better for off camber conditions,off road..
 
I've got a 4.3L out of a 93 K1500.

Doesn't have the true Vortec heads on it.

The 113 casting heads seem to be the best 4.3L heads, the ones I'm looking at came from the factory bolt down roller rockers.

$300 for a set. Don't know if I wanna pull the trigger on them.

Either way I'll be going ith an Edelbrock 4 barrel, dual plane intake. The 2111 (Non-Vortec) and 2114 (Vortec) intakes cost the same amount.

Is it worth doing the head swap?
My buddy had a 4.3 in his s 10 blazer that had a turbo. That sucker would almost wheelie when it downshifted. If you could find the space for a turbo kit you would get way more out of it. I believe his was a 92-3. I don’t think changing my the gears will make as much a difference as it does on a small block v 8
 
i was going to go in detail concerning v-6 intakes, but that intake and carb should be fine; i'm also ASSuming the engine is going into that yellow thing? If so, the engine will be fine with the stock heads and 2bbl intake.

Is this intake aluminum?
 
I hope you don't plant to run that distributor for long. Lack of vacuum advance and a advance curve for full throttle all the time won't be fun
 
I hope you don't plant to run that distributor for long. Lack of vacuum advance and a advance curve for full throttle all the time won't be fun

..........and then what about the fuel pump.........coz there's no place to bolt one on.

But one thing at a time.
 
Any cheap 12V pump will be OK with a 2GC or the 2100 carb...only needs 5-7 PSI max..

Not sure ,but maybe a small block HEI is a drop in swap too ?..
 
Any cheap 12V pump will be OK with a 2GC or the 2100 carb...only needs 5-7 PSI max..

Not sure ,but maybe a small block HEI is a drop in swap too ?..
 
Any cheap 12V pump will be OK with a 2GC or the 2100 carb...only needs 5-7 PSI max..

Not sure ,but maybe a small block HEI is a drop in swap too ?..
Don't cheap out on a pump. I've never had something leave me stranded as much as a cheap pump.


And no. V8 distributors fit but they have 8 pickups not 6. Ive read of people modifying them to work but idk how they did it. You need either an OEM 1985 4.3 distributor. A mSD one. Or an eBay one like I linked you in the other thread. It HAS to be for a 4.3. No other v6 shares the even fire
 
I guess a "good" pump means it costs $50 ?...
I have a generic $15 no-name 12V pump on my 6.2 for 13 years now,it still works fine..but I digress,an identical one I used with gasoline on my garden tractor died in less than a year,the ethanol turned it to mush inside,it must have been an old one not rated for alcohols..

Would a straight six HEI have the right pick up coil "timing",or is a 4.3 a weird firing order ?...the straight six HEI is the same housing as a V8 one,they just added an extension to the drive gear to drive the oil pump on the sixes..I have one left over hanging around in my garage somewhere I think..
 
I guess a "good" pump means it costs $50 ?...
I have a generic $15 no-name 12V pump on my 6.2 for 13 years now,it still works fine..but I digress,an identical one I used with gasoline on my garden tractor died in less than a year,the ethanol turned it to mush inside,it must have been an old one not rated for alcohols..

Would a straight six HEI have the right pick up coil "timing",or is a 4.3 a weird firing order ?...the straight six HEI is the same housing as a V8 one,they just added an extension to the drive gear to drive the oil pump on the sixes..I have one left over hanging around in my garage somewhere I think..

I use a Holley red pump. Previously I used autopart store OEM replacements and had nothing but problems

This is the distributor I use. Im not sure about the I6 distrbtor. I just know the 4.3 is an even fire V6 where as all the other 90* V6s were odd or semi even fire.
 
Heck,for $50 I'd go for one of those,why mess with used stuff when its that cheap ?..looks like a very high quality one,and the seller seems to know his stuff ..

The electric fuel pumps I'd buy if I need another one would be a Facet pump,the one that looks like a transformer...they are available in many different pressure ratings and don't have any rubber parts or bellows to go sour from alcohol,they use a nylon ball and a solenoid to pump..images (23).jpg


This generic type is what is on my diesel pickup...though they are as cheap as $10 on ebay,I don't think I'd buy another,but the $50 Mr,Gasket ones are pure JUNK,and the Facet pumps cost the same and have proved very reliable,for me anyway..images (22).jpg
 
i suggest one thing at a time; We haven't even gotten the intake and carb situation sorted out yet...........
 
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The intake manifold is cast iron.

I cleaned all of the old gasket material off of it and it is sitting in 2 gallons of evaporust at the moment.

Planning on chucking it in the blast cabinet once the evaporust has done it's job.

One thing I noticed when removing the old gasket material I noticed that the rear to water ports in the intake are blocked off, there is not a hole cast there whatsoever. Would this cause me issues?

The TBI intake had the coolant ports in it and a water passage that ran through the back of the intake to connect both sides.

The distributor is a TBI dizzy and will not be used.
 
Also for the fuel pump I'm not sure what I'm going with yet.

The mechanical fuel pump on the L134 that is currently in the Willys has had the lines pinched off and an electric fuel pump was put it.

I believe it is by professional products... could be totally wrong but that name rings a bell in my head for whatever reason.

I haven't had any issues with that pump yet and I will probably just run that once I swap the 4.3L in since its already there.

I think it would be a good idea to keep a spare on hand just in case I experience a failure.
 
The intake manifold is cast iron.

I cleaned all of the old gasket material off of it and it is sitting in 2 gallons of evaporust at the moment.

Planning on chucking it in the blast cabinet once the evaporust has done it's job.

One thing I noticed when removing the old gasket material I noticed that the rear to water ports in the intake are blocked off, there is not a hole cast there whatsoever. Would this cause me issues?

The TBI intake had the coolant ports in it and a water passage that ran through the back of the intake to connect both sides.

The distributor is a TBI dizzy and will not be used.


You should be fine with those ports blocked off. If anything you can drill and tap for crossover tubes. But my vortec engine had those blocked from the factory and my Edelbrock intake has them blocked

If I recall correctly. Coolant flows from waterpump through block, up into the back of the head, out of the front of the head to the thermostat and back to the radiator.
 
You should be fine with those ports blocked off. If anything you can drill and tap for crossover tubes. But my vortec engine had those blocked from the factory and my Edelbrock intake has them blocked

If I recall correctly. Coolant flows from waterpump through block, up into the back of the head, out of the front of the head to the thermostat and back to the radiator.

Sounds good.

The only other issues I see with the intake is that corrosion got the best of where the thermostat seats, the step that is machined in there isn't looking so hot.

It doesnt look like the evaporust has done much to that spot but I believe if a few thousandths were taken off with a mill then I won't have any issues. Like just the bare minimum to get a clean, flat surface.
 
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