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4.56 or 4.88

Dillyp

Dillyp

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So after getting to wheel a little for the first time since the sniper efi and 35's, I was left unsatisfied with the factory 4.10's that my blazer is geared. My last blazer had 4.10's and 35's, but driven by an sm465/np208. My current rig has a th350/np203. Im not looking to run a doubler, change trans or transfer case. The 4.10's were close to perfect on 33's, but just a little too lackluster with the 35's. The blazer gets a 50/50 mix of cruising/daily driving, and appalachian trail crawling. What would you recommend, 4.56's or 4.88's?

FYI they are stock 8.5 10 bolts with no intentions of swapping danas or 14 bolts. The gov-lok will be scrapped and a lunchbox will go in the rear, possibly the front while I'm at it.
 
So is it only offroad where you're unhappy with the gearing?
 
Imo, there's not enough difference between 4.10's and 4.56's to justify the cost so I'd go 4.88's, there's no point in doing it and not having a noticeable difference. That said, I wouldn't spend that kind of money on a rear 10 bolt.
 
If I were in your situation, I would change the tcase to a lower ratio. 4.10 and 35s is decently drivable as it is. 4.88 and 35s without overdrive is good offroad but man does 55mph at 2700rpm suck.
The 208 ratio does more for offroad gear than axle gears do from 4.10 to 4.88.
 
obijuank5 said:
If I were in your situation, I would change the tcase to a lower ratio. 4.10 and 35s is decently drivable as it is. 4.88 and 35s without overdrive is good offroad but man does 55mph at 2700rpm suck.
The 208 ratio does more for offroad gear than axle gears do from 4.10 to 4.88.
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My gto does about 3000 at 55, that aspect doesn't bother me.
 
4.88 w 33's at 1 to 1 am 3300 at 55 and 3600 at 63ish, 35's figure 200-250 rpm drop from my rpm
 

Great calculator for this stuff. You can compare 2 set ups and change everything on the drivetrain.

I will echo the T-case swap over the gear change. The cost will set you up and better for later. I’d say the trans too but that gets more costly.


Otherwise 4.88
 
K85 Octane said:

Great calculator for this stuff. You can compare 2 set ups and change everything on the drivetrain.

I will echo the T-case swap over the gear change. The cost will set you up and better for later. I’d say the trans too but that gets more costly.


Otherwise 4.88
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Eventually it will get an sm465/205, but no time soon. We just bought a house, so I'm dealing with all that. I can do a gear swap in a couple hours at work, swapping the old iron cube and pedals will take a little longer.
 
I got the biggest seat of the pants feel from swapping the 203 to a 208….I run 4.56s and 35s and highway doesn’t bother me, bout 3k at 70, but I’d take 4.88s for the trail and give a little on highway speed.
 
Chickntrk said:
I got the biggest seat of the pants feel from swapping the 203 to a 208….I run 4.56s and 35s and highway doesn’t bother me, bout 3k at 70, but I’d take 4.88s for the trail and give a little on highway speed.
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I have a 465/205 combo in my dad's barn, but no 208 currently. I do like the 208 tho. Lighter, better ratio and shift pattern. Im leaning towards 4.88, because I'm an hour away from the closest 65mph speed limit. Most of my driving is mountainous country roads, so highway speed is almost a non factor. Plus, I'm pretty sure I have 1 R/P gearset in 4.88. Probably have a 4.56 too, but definitely have the 4.88.
 
I’d do 4.88, the 205 low range is about the same as a 203 (actually a little worse) so you’d be set either way
 
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