What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

4 Link rear tech

ryoken

ryoken

Puppy Fabricator
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jun 13, 2003
Posts
35,573
Reaction score
13,560
Location
Jersey Shore
ok, looking to put together a good searchable thread about rear 4 link tech... This is a subject I had avoided for a LONG time cuz I had decided not to link the K5, so why waste my efforts learning about it... or do I want a 3-link?

but now I'm considering a bagged/link rear in the soon to be towrig, so I'm trying to research.. I've peaked at a few kits on the market, Ruffstuff, etc.. but I'm trying to accumulate some tech links pertaining to the hows and why's of rear linked suspensions... the various free softwares available, theory, builds, etc...

so any favorites you can link up pertaining to rear link stuff would be appreciated... or even suggestions to link style, etc is welcome... if I'm gonna do it, I want it well planned and all parts prepurchased to expedite the job... it's the kinda thing where I wouldn't want the rig down for more than a couple weeks... and even a well-planned approach is gonna be mucho work...

The goal is to have a soft enough rear suspension to not jar my teeth loose on a DD, yet be able to air up and tow a gooseneck trailer with the K5 on occasion... in addition to the benefits of limiting axle wrap with decent power running thru it... any bag tech/suggestions would be appreciated too, as it's another virgin subject for me...

and to make it all the more difficult, tighter, I'm thinking the bags will need to be between the frame and axle, not outside the rails, due to the dually aspect... thanks for any help brothers! :bow:
 
sweet, that's exactly what i'm looking for... smart boy that Chris... thanks a bunch Dan... I remember that one and thinking "I'm not doing it so, nah, nah, nah.." :haha:

now the big question will be fitting that, airbags and shocks all in the frame to frame width constraint... :doah:
 
Hey, Paul....

After reading the relevant info in yer first link,
I can't help but think there is a common equation that can be applied.

There are a few variables that need to be punched in....
But, I can't see why this can't be calculated mathematically.

W/ tolerance limitations already known, it's pretty much spelled out for you....

Is there a 4-link calculator, guys?

Cuz I'm writing one, if there ain't... :thinking:
 
there's quite a few even tho I haven't looked at em yet.. there's one linked early on in Chris's thread that Dan posted..

right now I'm looking at double triangulated, bag pads and shock mounting.. right now i'd be leaning toward shocks mounted similar to Kert's CC setup. tube off the rear of the back of the tubes... gonna start compiling a parts list to see what kinda components can be had/used....
 
Sounds good... I'd call that progress! :waytogo:

I'm bullet-pointing all the info, right now.
Gonna go do some measuring on the K5, in a few.

Thanks for the doing the research for me.... Again. :haha:
 
heres a good excel based calculator that i came across awhile ago.

I just saw that it's the same as the one in the above thread but i leave it since it's a direct link
 

Attachments

  • 4BarLinkV3.1d.zip
    70.8 KB · Views: 5
good one.. I thought he had done one, but I only looked in his build thread...
 
Eric will be so all over this thread!
 
If its gonna be a tow rig/ road vehicle it shouldnt matter if it flexes a lot. Wouldnt a ladder bar, bags, and watts link setup be more stable. It would be a lot simpler and leave more room for everything too.

Just a thought:dunno:
 
never even heard of a watts link... I'm definitely not looking for flex out of it, more ride comfort, axle stability.. keep in mind, I do want to be able to put a fair amount of power to it...
 
I just looked em up.. I don't like it with an initial look.. and throw in having to add ladder bars to control axle wrap really makes me think it'd be more involved than the 4 link.. tho it definitely would help with the "keep it between the rails" aspect... I'll read up on it some more..
 
the ladder bars ARE what holds the axle. The watts holds it between the rails. there is No axle wrap. and no a$$ wiggle. Theres a bunch of different models out there. But you could find somebody that knows how to fab:whistle: :haha:and have a custom heavy duty setup.

its used alot in the sport and lowrider scene. :waytogo:
 
yeah, I was looking at pics, it's interesting fo sure.. basically it seems like a fancy replacement for a panhard bar from my noob spying... learn something new every day...

I am thinking I may temporarily steal the York i have for the K5 for this rig... since it will see some service type work with toolboxes in the bed, etc, it could multitask for the bags as well... i'll see... it's all just pre-emptive planning at this point....
 
Either way, Happy fabbin' I know it'll be sweet. what ever you come up with:thumb:
 
tank ya sir... anyone have a suggestion on joints they like?
 
For a tow rig put some light springs out back, some bags with oba and a simple ladder bar/traction bar if you get axle wrap and call it a day. My dodge has light leaves (only a little 3 leaf pack) and bags and I couldn't be happier. Rides great unloaded and I can't load enough weight to squat it with the bags filled up.
 
that would certainly be simpler and keep it tight.. I do have a set of 56's kicking around that would probably work well for that...

where'd ya run the bags?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom