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4" or 6" spring lift on my 91Jimmy? (picture added)

J

JME

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Hi folks, this is my first post. I have a 1991 GMC Jimmy. It currently has a 2.5" superlift with blocks in the back and 33" BFGs. I'm ready to upgrade the lift. My plan is to remove the 2.5" lift and replace it with a 6" all spring lift and 35s BFG mud terrains. That being said I have heard that if you go over a 4" lift it will just create problems. Experienced lifters, should I go with the 4" or the 6" lift? The Jimmy is just a play toy that I drive on the weekends. Minor off-road and beach driving but mostly on the road. Your opinions will be appreciated.
FLY NAVY!

91 GMC Jimmy.jpg
 
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People typically run into problems with a 6" lift if they're not prepared for all the expenditures that can come along with it.

On a short wheel base rig like ours, the problems tend to be driveline length and angle. When going to a 6", you should be prepared to get new drivelines (minimum), but also look to a SYE on the rear of the transfer case.

A raised steering arm also will typically limit your steering if that's the only correction you have. You'll likely need a dropped drag link as well, or just scrap the stock stuff and go crossover.

Also, longer brake lines are necessary, but that's fairly common knowledge.
 
I have or have had all three of those lifts. Here's my opinions:

Your current lift will be the best riding out of the three and probably do what you want right now.

4" is nice andpossibly the most versicle blend of both worlds

6" will typically ride the worst but isn't terribly difficult to do. Personally I like how a blazer looks with a 6" lift. You'll need longer drivelines and brake lines and maybe deeper gears.

Just depends on what you want and how you want it to look as well. I think you could do what you want with any three of the lifts
 
^^Agree with most of this.

After having done K5s in all 3 configurations, I personally prefer the 2.5-3" lift. A good compromise between capability and drivability.

Also note; working in the engine bay of a truck with a 6" lift usually sucks.
 
I just went with 4" and 35's and am very pleased. I thought I wanted a 6" lift but I'm glad I went with 4 now. I ordered an ORD 1" body lift but I dont know if I'm even going to use it now.
 
What are you using the truck for and why do you want more lift?

Not saying you shouldn't, just inquiring as to what you want to do
 
Swanson52 said:
Also note; working in the engine bay of a truck with a 6" lift usually sucks.
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This is very true. My DD has a 6" lift. I use a step ladder or short bench to get under the hood. On the plus side, working under the truck is nicer...

I also love how my rig looks with a 6" lift even tho I don't need it :D
 
I agree, leave it or go with the 4"...

There's a few rigs I've had that I wish I could just jump in and drive it like I used to...
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I plan to go with the 4" lift with 35s. I'll post after pictures eventually.
 
how about a 4" flip kit in the rear. ditch the block lift back there.

then set of zero rates up front and move the axle ahead 1 " and get lots of room for tires.

then do ord 1" body lift with new body bushings.

that get you 4" lift and prob save a few bucks.
 
sweetk30 said:
how about a 4" flip kit in the rear. ditch the block lift back there.

then set of zero rates up front and move the axle ahead 1 " and get lots of room for tires.

then do ord 1" body lift with new body bushings.

that get you 4" lift and prob save a few bucks.
Click to expand...

I was reading through this post and getting ready to reply with the exact same comment.
 
I have a 6" lift with 35s on my Jimmy. I had to extend my rear drive shaft and get extended brake lines. I dropped my transfer case 1". It drives good but getting in and out of the vehicle becomes an issue especially for the wife and dog.
 
Sounds like you have already decided on the 4". I think thats the best move. Regardless i will tell my story. I had an '80 3/4ton 4x4 pickup with a th350/np205 combo lifted 6". I had to get the rear drive line lengthened and i couldn't even install the front drive line until i clearenced it with a grinder at the u-joints on the t-case side. My steering sucked! Drove down the road ok but had the turning radius of a tanker ship. Without exaggeration, it needed a four lane road curb to curb to do a u-turn. Made parallel parking a bitch also. I wish it would have been a 4" with a cross over steering conversion. Then i would have been really happy.
 
sweetk30 said:
how about a 4" flip kit in the rear. ditch the block lift back there.

then set of zero rates up front and move the axle ahead 1 " and get lots of room for tires.

then do ord 1" body lift with new body bushings.

that get you 4" lift and prob save a few bucks.
Click to expand...

I like this plan. You actually convinced me to modify my plan, although I'm only going 3". 2" springs in front, zero rate moving the axle, and the 4" flip in the rear (saggy butt).

Good input my friend.
 
I know you've already made up your mind, but my vote would've been for you to keep it as is. I installed a 2.5" lift (was factory when I bought it) because I wanted 33's and enough clearance to do some moderate offroading, along with camping and hunting outings. The 2.5 keeps it very streetable without being too squirrely.

I'd just do a shackle flip in the rear to get rid of the blocks and keep your same setup. But my advice is worth what you pay for it :D
 
first off.....i think your truck is great as is. i had many setups at 2-3" with both 33's and 35's. if you plan on wheeling it you'll need to trim the front anyway at 4", you can run 35's just fine with 2 1/2". if you want all spring, just do a zero rate up front and a 4" spring out back (may be a little "sag" look to the rear though).....no need to drop the tank either. if your rear springs are good the flip is cheaper, but you probably have an add a leaf with the blocks. do you have the dropped pitman arm right now? do you have the gear to run 35's properly? what kind of wheeling/driving are you going to do?



i'm gathering parts for a well built 3/33 setup now.
 
My '86 with 2.5" and 33s drove great on the road... Don't know what I was thinking when I got rid of it...

The '79 had a 4" and 35 BFG a/t's for a while and drove pretty good on the road... Springs front, blocks back...

Went with 36" TSLs and and home brew flip with the stock 52s and there was a noticeable difference... Soon after came the death wobble... Not sure if the change in lift, the bias tires or a combination was the culpret... But, my wife wouldn't drive it after that...

It then went to 52/56s, 7.25" front shackles and 6" rears, 1 tons and full hydro with 38.5 SXs... Drove it around the hood and felt pretty good... It felt like "a caddy on swampers" on logging roads... And floated down the trails...

Now it has the same set up with 44 TSLs and drives great for a trail rig... It drove pretty decent going around the block, better than the 38.5s...

The '88 crew cab had a 4" lift and 33" A/Ts and drove like a brick... Ran 38 TSLs for a bit and drove decent, but you knew you were driving a lifted truck with big tires... Threw a set of 35" BFG MTs on it and that was the best set up I ran on that truck...

It's not always just the lift or just the tires... It can be a combo thing...
 
Good info all around and I appreciate it. The best advice is probably to just leave it alone, but I'll never be able to do that. Hopefully the 4" lift with the 35s will give it a bigger/meaner look without tearing it all to hell. I do only minor off-road stuff, I will mostly use it around town and on the beach. Thanks for the other lift options, defiantly something to consider. Someone mentioned gears and the gears in the thing are stock as far as I know. It is something I have thought about and will probably be my next project, recommendations are always welcome. So what is the deal with cross over steering? What benefit will it give me? Does cross over steering replace the need for a steering stabilizer? How much does it cost?
 
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