400 sbc???? (All assembled)

[496truck]

Well im hoping to run 2.5 inch back then IDK about true duals or Fakes, but to 3" Duals out the back. WIth FLowmasters.

Oh yah and my buddy has some headers from a 350 he said he would dig up for me, slightly used, he didnt say a price but prolly not too much. SHould fit right? Or no.

If full dual exhaust with headers, run 2.5" from the collector all the way back. The engine you're using will not need more than that.

If headers to y-pipe and single, run 3" from the y-pipe joint back. A single 3" performance muffler of your choice will work fine.

BTW, been reading this thread from the start, and I like the 400. Really for your useage and the way it's more of a 'stock build' on the engine, you'll be very happy with it. Can't really beat the price too.

 

[Deuling]

If headers to y-pipe and single, run 3" from the y-pipe joint back. A single 3" performance muffler of your choice will work fine.

BTW, been reading this thread from the start, and I like the 400. Really for your useage and the way it's more of a 'stock build' on the engine, you'll be very happy with it. Can't really beat the price too.

Im gonna do that one exactly, then i only need one muffler so i can get a nice one and have that 3" look i like out the back. And i like the idea of both exhausts going out the same path for a bit, seems like it would balance the back pressure better than true duals.

Im hoping to finally use the hydraulic pipe bender i got from harbor freight, i got a pic of it on my truck page link below. I know tubing is OD and pipe is ID (I do work for a plumber lol) But tubing benders are way to pricey, and ive heard that filling the tubing really well with sand and taping both ends and a little grinding on one of the dies allows ok bending of exhuast tubing without kinking, the sand just needs to be really packed in.
But for $180 i couldnt pass it up, and i got my Hobart 140 for xmas that welds amazing and is perfect for exhaust work, did a little on my turbo pack i put on this.

And yah thanks man, i like the idea of having a big motor that can be economical, yet fun when i need it to. Im hoping thats why so many guys on here are against this motor because they all want it for rock crawling, or mudding purposes, and thats not me. Sand dunes once or twice a year is enough abuse for my truck, i want it to last. Kinda lookin for a mix of both worlds but keep that stock look my truck has. Im leaning farther and farther from the whole lift idea at all and just have a perfect looking beefy stock vehcle that performs well. I love getting those comments from people at the gas station that say, "Wow that is a great lookin truck man, most the time those are rust buckets or monster trucks" lol.

 

[blazinzuk]

Using the pipe bender to bend exhaust (unless you are doing very very small bends) will be an exercise in frustration. If you want a nice exhaust it will cost some. I tend to like to buy prebent pieces and weld em together.

Another fan of the 400 here but the only one I build was a destroker. Very stout motor, it was years ago I helped build it and it hasn't done much since. This summer we are going to refresh it and flog the car

 

[Deuling]

Using the pipe bender to bend exhaust (unless you are doing very very small bends) will be an exercise in frustration. If you want a nice exhaust it will cost some. I tend to like to buy prebent pieces and weld em together.

Another fan of the 400 here but the only one I build was a destroker. Very stout motor, it was years ago I helped build it and it hasn't done much since. This summer we are going to refresh it and flog the car

I will most likely buy any 90s but i think i will try a 45 just to see if it could handle it and work. Once I get the motor in i will drop my exhaust and basically rebuild it because i like the system it has to be hones, but its all jerry rigged, goes from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 after the Y then after the muffler it Y's again and goes into what looks like 2, then i think 3 inch tips lol, its crazy and ugly. But i am really excited to do the exhaust, i can't wait to get some welding and fab time in. And im hoping If i take the one of the smaller dies and grind it out a little so it fits the 2 1/2 and another for the 3" it may bend it alright. I saw a guy fill it with sand and bend it, but he messed with the dies, so it may be worth it because in all honesty when am i gonna bend any pipe bigger than 3/4" air lines or something. SO im not too worried about the dies, i could always buy more.

 

[Deuling]

Ok so readin my Summit mag today, they have Royal Purple Break in oil. Good?? 7.80 a qt. I dont think thats that bad seeing its the same price their oil is. Also im debating on just running Royal purple in the new motor. I mean its oil, it gets changed every now and again, every 2000 if your me lol. But If its the price that drives people away i dont mind the extra $20 every couple months. I would much rather have my engine run better longer. And if their Break in Oil is the same as their normal oil, why not run that all the time?? lol idk just wondered.

Opinions? THrow em at me.

Also best way to break in a non power house motor. Mostly DD but some Sand dunes. I hear some people say rev it to 2000 for 20 then change oil, but i read that about a strip motor. What shall I do??

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Ok so readin my Summit mag today, they have Royal Purple Break in oil. Good?? 7.80 a qt. I dont think thats that bad seeing its the same price their oil is. Also im debating on just running Royal purple in the new motor. I mean its oil, it gets changed every now and again, every 2000 if your me lol. But If its the price that drives people away i dont mind the extra $20 every couple months. I would much rather have my engine run better longer. And if their Break in Oil is the same as their normal oil, why not run that all the time?? lol idk just wondered.

Opinions? THrow em at me.

Also best way to break in a non power house motor. Mostly DD but some Sand dunes. I hear some people say rev it to 2000 for 20 then change oil, but i read that about a strip motor. What shall I do??

Most modern oils have low zinc content, which is bad cause hydraulic cams need alot of zinc during break-in to insure they don't flatten a lobe. Royal Purple just has high zinc and other additives. You would change to a standard oil once you're out of the break in stage.

Break-in, there's alot of different opinions. I would hope Scott (4X4HIGH) would chime in, he's the guy to talk with about building engines. I ran mine at 2000-2500 for 15 or 20 min I think.

 

[tRustyK5]

I will most likely buy any 90s but i think i will try a 45 just to see if it could handle it and work. Once I get the motor in i will drop my exhaust and basically rebuild it because i like the system it has to be hones, but its all jerry rigged, goes from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 after the Y then after the muffler it Y's again and goes into what looks like 2, then i think 3 inch tips lol, its crazy and ugly. But i am really excited to do the exhaust, i can't wait to get some welding and fab time in. And im hoping If i take the one of the smaller dies and grind it out a little so it fits the 2 1/2 and another for the 3" it may bend it alright. I saw a guy fill it with sand and bend it, but he messed with the dies, so it may be worth it because in all honesty when am i gonna bend any pipe bigger than 3/4" air lines or something. SO im not too worried about the dies, i could always buy more.

It will kink/crush the exhaust pipe rather than bend it...whether it's a 10 degree attempt or more. The only thing you can bend with one of those is stuff with thick walls like...pipe.

Drop your old exhaust, and use it to map out which bends and straights you'll need to replicate it...then buy those pre-bent. The rest is cut/fit/weld which is about 8 million percent less frustrating than trying to bend anything with a pipe bender.

The harsh truth is those pipe benders are really large heavy paperweights sold to "wishful thinkers". Scavenge the hydraulic ram out of it, scrap the rest, consider it the cost of education. I did.

Rene

 

[Deuling]

The harsh truth is those pipe benders are really large heavy paperweights sold to "wishful thinkers". Scavenge the hydraulic ram out of it, scrap the rest, consider it the cost of education. I did.

Rene

Haha oh well, i could at least make some bumpers with it, also i wouldnt mind a sand rail someday, so it will be worth keeping.

 

[Deuling]

Most modern oils have low zinc content, which is bad cause hydraulic cams need alot of zinc during break-in to insure they don't flatten a lobe. Royal Purple just has high zinc and other additives. You would change to a standard oil once you're out of the break in stage.

Break-in, there's alot of different opinions. I would hope Scott (4X4HIGH) would chime in, he's the guy to talk with about building engines. I ran mine at 2000-2500 for 15 or 20 min I think.

Are you saying don't run the Royal Purple normal oil after break in??? I was kinda thinkin about it lol.

 

[jwilson76]

Ok so readin my Summit mag today, they have Royal Purple Break in oil. Good?? 7.80 a qt. I dont think thats that bad seeing its the same price their oil is. Also im debating on just running Royal purple in the new motor. I mean its oil, it gets changed every now and again, every 2000 if your me lol. But If its the price that drives people away i dont mind the extra $20 every couple months. I would much rather have my engine run better longer. And if their Break in Oil is the same as their normal oil, why not run that all the time?? lol idk just wondered.

Opinions? THrow em at me.

Also best way to break in a non power house motor. Mostly DD but some Sand dunes. I hear some people say rev it to 2000 for 20 then change oil, but i read that about a strip motor. What shall I do??

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195620
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=243928
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283416
Everything you need to know about oil and flat tapper cams. We build about a dozen engines a year, from stock to extreme, and we'll run the engine at 2,000 rpm for about 1/2 hour to break in the cam and to start seating the rings.

 

[Deuling]

Ok thanks man!!

 

[TDAWG1]

I know right, shows how little i know about engines haha.

One of the Best Places ever to Learn anything is Right here. The Brotherhood Rocks

 

[Deuling]

One of the Best Places ever to Learn anything is Right here. The Brotherhood Rocks

 

[jwilson76]

Exhaust pipe is measured by O.D.. We do a little exhaust work in the shop to. I have an old Bend Pak pipe bender that works pretty well from 1 1/2"-3". I've never tried bending pipe with my tubing bender, so I don't know how that would turnout, but you can bend tubing in a exhaust pipe bender just fine.

 

[Deuling]

Exhaust pipe is measured by O.D.. We do a little exhaust work in the shop to. I have an old Bend Pak pipe bender that works pretty well from 1 1/2"-3". I've never tried bending pipe with my tubing bender, so I don't know how that would turnout, but you can bend tubing in a exhaust pipe bender just fine.

Yah i know the O.D. thing and Pipe I.D. thing, (plumbing company) but i just thought it was worth a shot. How much was that bender you got??

 

[StevoandaRedK5]

Are you saying don't run the Royal Purple normal oil after break in??? I was kinda thinkin about it lol.

nonono, I'm just saying run normal oil rather than break-in oil after the break-in, cause you asked about that in the first post about oil. Royal Purple is some good stuff.

 

[Deuling]

nonono, I'm just saying run normal oil rather than break-in oil after the break-in, cause you asked about that in the first post about oil. Royal Purple is some good stuff.

Haha ok i just wondered if their is the zinc and stuff in the break in oil and its roughly the same price as their normal oil why not run it all the time lol. But ok I think im gonna do it. My buddy put it in his car and went from 35mpg to 39 and its not burning any oil anymore.... sounds good to me. I just figured their would be somebody that would say nah that stuffs crap lol its just overpriced or something haha. What weight does it come in, and whats the best?? (for a 400?)

 

[jwilson76]

Yah i know the O.D. thing and Pipe I.D. thing, (plumbing company) but i just thought it was worth a shot. How much was that bender you got??

We paid $2500 almost 9 years ago and it was used. The bender came with 6 sets of dies with large and small radius, swedges, and expanders. It's been a good addition to the shop, even if we had only put exhaust on our own vehicles.

 

[Deuling]

yah i felt $180 was more in my budget

 

[shovelbill80]

Ok so readin my Summit mag today, they have Royal Purple Break in oil. Good?? 7.80 a qt. I dont think thats that bad seeing its the same price their oil is. Also im debating on just running Royal purple in the new motor. I mean its oil, it gets changed every now and again, every 2000 if your me lol. But If its the price that drives people away i dont mind the extra $20 every couple months. I would much rather have my engine run better longer. And if their Break in Oil is the same as their normal oil, why not run that all the time?? lol idk just wondered.

Opinions? THrow em at me.

Also best way to break in a non power house motor. Mostly DD but some Sand dunes. I hear some people say rev it to 2000 for 20 then change oil, but i read that about a strip motor. What shall I do??

did you say opinions?
hmm....ok, here's one. if you change your oil and filter every 2K then it's a total waste of money to run synthetic. plain ol' dino oil is good for 5K if it's not a totally abused motor. if it's not running rich, has good compression and is broken in there is no reason to change at 3K either. modern oils have detergent in them, in the past they needed to change oil at closer intervals due to the oils they had, not the case anymore......a good synthetic should be good for 7-8K on a daily driver in good tune. use synthetic, it's better in the cold winter too. why waste it though? personally i like Castrol products.